壳聚糖处理羊毛织物用 M型活性染料染色工艺探讨

文章探讨了pH值、温度对羊毛织物用M型活性染料染色的影响及壳聚糖脱乙酰度、浓度及分子量等对经壳聚糖处理后的羊毛织物染色性能的影响.结果表明,经壳聚糖处理后的羊毛织物用M型活性染料染色,能获得较高的固色率和K/S值.提高处理液中壳聚糖的脱乙酰度或浓度都能提高活性染料对羊毛织物的固色率和K/S值,而且对染色样的湿处理牢度和摩擦牢度影响不大.壳聚糖的分子量对织物的染色性能无明显影响.     

羊毛的变性及变性羊毛阳离子染料染色

羊毛经阴离子型活性变性剂处理后，纤维侧基上被引入阴离子型基因，具有和腈纶纤维类似的结构。因而，变性羊毛能够用阳离子染料染色。增大变性剂的分子量、共轭双键数及相对疏水性，变性羊毛用阳离子染料染色时上染速率和上染率均可显著地增大，染色牢度也大为改善，但对酸性染料产生防染作用。从变性羊毛的红外吸收光谱图上可看到，在波数为１１５０～１２６０ｃｍ－１、１０１０～１０８０ｃｍ－１和６００—７００ｃｍ－１处均出现磺酸基的特征吸收峰。变性剂和羊毛间形成共价结合成为纤维侧基的一部分。变性羊毛表面的电性能有较大变化，但其物理机械性能如减溶解度、弹性、断裂强度等基本不受影响。     

Enzymatic Treatment of Wool

Three proteases were applied to treatments of wool. The shrinkage, dyeing behavior, some physical and mechanical properties of treated wool were studied. Peroxymonosulfate(PMS) and lipase were used to pretreat wool before the treatment of it by protease. The results show that the shrink resistance of wool fabric is not obtained when it is treated only by the protease, but it is remarkably improved when the wool fabric is treated first by PMS or a lipase afterwards by protease. The rate of dyeing is increased when the wool is treated by protease or combination of oxidant/ lipase and protease. Whiteness, luster and softness of treated wool are improved, while the strength and elasticity are reduced.     

糜蛋白酶预处理羊毛的低温染色性能

用正交试验法研究了糜蛋白酶对羊毛纤维的预处理情况,再用染料酸性大红BS在较低温度下对预处理后的羊毛进行染色,测定了羊毛的上染率、表观色深值、断裂强力等性能。实验结果表明：在糜蛋白酶用量为2％（owf）、pH值为7、温度为40℃、时间为60min的预处理条件下,酸性大红BS在80℃下染羊毛的上染率达到95．1％,色深值（K／S）达到15．05,强力下降率只有5．78％,与常规染色工艺条件下的染色性能相比,上染率和色深值均有提高,而纤维强力损失较小。     

The Study of Top Dyeing Damage by Bundle Tensile Testing

It is well known that top dyeing is an Important step in wool processing, but it will result in the damage of fibre in normal dyeing. How to measure the damage quickly and to evaluate it quantitatively are vital important for wool industry and also interested for wool researchers. For the purpose, nineteen tops dyed in normal condition from three wool textile mills in China were tested with TENSOR, a bundle fibre tensile tester. The experimental results showed that the dyeing damage rate of bundle strength of these tops is 6% - 7% in average and some tops were higher than 10% dyeing damage. Meanwhile, the dyeing damages for different wool mills were discussed . It is obvious that bundle tensile test is an efficient and quick method to evaluate the damage caused by top dyeing and to identify the difference between wool mills in quality and quantity.     

Low Temperature Dyeing and Shrinkage-Resistance Finishing of Wool by Composition of Salt-Ammonia and Enzyme Treatment

Wool top and knitted fabric were treated with ammonia in the presence of sodium chloride （salt-ammonia process）. The effectiveness of salt-ammonia process traditionally used as pretreatment for low temperature dyeing has been investigated for conferring shrink-resistance of wool. The pretreatmont of salt-ammonia process followed by enzymatic treatment has been proved that contribute to not only the enhancement of dyeing behavionr but also shrinkage-resistance in the present studies. A novel composition of salt-ammonia pretreatment, oxidized and reduced treatment as well as protease modification was recommended to achieve low temperature dyeing and shrinkage-resistance of wool. At the same time, the process conditions were optimized by orthogonal array and assessed by dye uptake rate, weight loss and area shrinkage. Laboratory experiments showed that the knitted fabric treated according to optimized conditions of the combined process, achieved not only improvement of dye abilities but also the strict requirement of machine-washable, representing a possible alternative to chlorination.     

Union Dyeing Behavior on the Blends of Tencel and Shrink-proofing Wool with the Same Reactive Dyestuffs in One Bath

In order to obtain union colour on the blends of Tencel and shrink-proofing wool and improve the efficiency of dyeing process, the dyeing behavior on the blends of Tencel and shrink-proofing wool in the same bath was studied. The Argazol TW reactive dyestuffs were involved in the dyeing process. The parameters under different conditions such as exhaustion, fixation, compatibility as well as soaping fastness were investigated in detail. It is shown that the Argazol TW reactive dyestuffs are suitable for dyeing of blends of Tencel and shrink-proofing wool and good dyeing behavior can be expected.     

锦纶纤维活性染料染色条件探讨

采用毛用和棉用活性染料对锦纶纤维染色,详细讨论了染色温度、染浴pH值、染色和皂洗方法对染色深度和固色率的影响,分析了不同类型的活性染料对染色条件的敏感性。活性染料对锦纶纤维的染色深度、固着率和固着效率受温度、pH值、染料母体结构和活性基的影响很大。毛用活性染料更适合于锦纶纤维的染色,普通乙烯砜硫酸酯及乙烯砜硫酸酯/一氯均三嗪染料可有选择性地加以使用,毛用活性染料合适的染色pH值约为4,其它染料适用的pH值因品种而异.采用酸性染色或先酸性后碱性的染色条件均可,后者的优点是固着效率高,但染色深度未见提高,染色后采用碱性条件皂洗有利于染色深度的提高.     

四乙烯五胺交联染料在羊毛上的吸附及染色性能研究

吸附动力学和吸附热力学可以指导染色理论和染色工艺的建立.考察了pH、温度和时间对四乙烯五胺交联染料在羊毛纤维上吸附性能的影响,研究了四乙烯五胺交联染料的吸附动力学和吸附平衡模型.研究显示四乙烯五胺交联染料的染色pH在羊毛的等电点以上,染料吸附过程遵循准二级动力学方程,并且活化能为130.3kJ/mol,以化学吸附为主.染色温度的提高可以加快染色速率但降低了染料的平衡吸附量,吸附平衡为Langmuir型,吸附的各项热力学参数均为负值,说明吸附过程是自发放热的过程.另外,测定了染料的交联反应性能和各项色牢度,结果表明四乙烯五胺交联染料在羊毛纤维上可得到近100%的交联反应率和优良的色牢度.     

PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF A NEW ANTIFELTING RESIN FOR WOOL FABRICS

In this paper,a new resin called Resin M for imparting antifelting properties to wool fabricshas been studied.Resin M may be used by aqueous oxidative/polymer technique.It is provedthat Oxidant A/Resin M treatment can satisfy the machine washable requirement formulated byI.W.S..Resin M is a good agent for antifelting treatment of wool fabrics with proper pretreatment.Oxidant A/Resin M treatment has little influence on dyeing and moisture adsorption properties ofwool fibers.The pilling resistance of the treated fabrics is higher than that of the untreated ones.The strength and the handle of the treated fabrics have little been changed.According to thescanning electron microscope observations,it is recommended that the polymer encapsulation ofindividual fiber also plays an important role in the felting resistance of the treated fabrics though itis well known that the shrink resistance of the treated fabrics is believed to be due to the binding offibers.     

阳离子丝素助剂改性羊毛及改性纤维染色性能

用自制的阳离子改性丝素助剂整理羊毛纤维，研究整理工艺条件对羊毛纤维染色性能的影响．结果表明，改性的丝素助剂整理的羊毛纤维显著改善了对活性染料的染色性能，同时整理的羊毛织物防缩抗鹱性能提高．     

Effect of Stretching - Setting Treatment on Dyeing Behavior of Wool

Changes of dyeing behavior of wool after stretching -setting treatment are studied. Effects of stretching -setting on wool structure are analyzed. It is concluded that stretching - setting treatment not only reduces wool diameter and increases wool length, but also brings about low-temperature dyeing of wool.     

稀土在毛制品上的应用

近年来，稀土元素作为纺织梁整助剂在羊毛纤维、纱线和织物的应用取得了很大进展，其中包括羊毛散纤维、全毛绒线、毛织物及全毛地毯等的染色和漂白，目前的稀土羊毛漂染是在不改变生产工艺流程，不增加加工设备条件下，将稀土作为一种漂染助剂加入染浴或漂浴中，起到染色增深增浓、缓染匀染，七约染化料，低温、低铬染色，提高颜色鲜艳度以及促进漂白等作用。本文阐述了稀土羊毛漂染的机理，总结了近年来的生产实践经验，以期进一步推动稀土在纺织染整领域中的应用和研究工作。     

亲纤维型羊毛匀染剂CL-1的开发和研制

选用数种表面活性剂物质，运用正交实验法，从匀染性（△K/S值）和表观色深（K/S）值的角度，以△K/S值和K/S值为衡量标准，研究表明活性剂的协同作用对羊毛染色的影响，复配和制备了亲纤维型羊毛匀染剂CL-1，并与日本同类产品WA进行了对比，实验表明，CL-1耐酸，具有良好的润湿渗透作用和化学稳定性，匀染性好；表观色深高，说明有利于染料利用率的提高。     

低温等离子体处理对羊毛织物性能的影响

采用空气低温等离子体对羊毛表面进行改性处理,探讨了等离子体处理对羊毛织物抗毡缩性、强力、白度、润湿性、染色性能等的影响.正交试验结果表明:等离子体处理羊毛织物的实验室最佳工艺为时间3min、压强50Pa、功率150W.经空气低温等离子体处理,羊毛织物的毡缩率和白度降低,而润湿性、强力和弱酸性普拉红B染色K/S值提高.单独经过空气等离子体处理的羊毛织物达不到"机可洗"的要求.     

天然植物染料黄连在毛织物染色中的应用

用黄连提取液染羊毛织物，通过正交试验确定了直接染色和预媒染染色的最佳工艺条件，并分析了各染色条件对黄连染毛织物的色差值的影响。色牢度测试表明黄连染毛织物的耐摩擦牢度较好，皂洗牢度较差。     

束纤维强伸性分析在毛条染色损伤中的应用

毛条染色是经常进行的加工过程,而染色会损伤纤维.及时地检测和给出这种损伤量,十分必要.采用束纤维强伸性测量方法(TENSOR),能快速准确地给出毛条染色前后的强度、伸长、断裂功的护伤.实验结果表明,国内毛条染色的强度损伤在6%～7%,伸长损伤在4%～5%,断裂功损伤在8%～10%.这反映出毛条染色加工中的原毛条质量的浪费.     

乌拉圭羊毛理化性能及其可纺性的研究

着重研究乌拉圭细羊毛和半细羊毛在化学组成、形态结构、纺纱工艺性能和染色性能等方面的特点，并与相当细度的美利奴羊毛有关性能相对比．分析了ＭＩＣ２２．６、ＭＩＣ２６．８、ＭＩＣ２８．８三种毛条的纤维长度和细度分布特性，制定出可纺纱支的纱线规格和相应的加工工艺路线．结果表明，乌拉圭羊毛表面鳞片密度低并紧贴毛干，使羊毛明亮光泽；乌拉圭羊毛强力大，初始模量高，卷曲弹性率较低，表面光滑，摩擦系数小；乌拉圭羊毛含有较少的自由氨基，上染比较缓慢．根据其特性，作者认为乌拉圭羊毛加工过程中需特别注意和毛油剂种类的选择，同时宜采用较低的单纱和股线捻系数，设计色泽鲜艳、要求保形性能好的产品．     

Ultrasonic assisted dyeing：Dyeing of wool fabrics as Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour. a natural dye

The use of Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.in the dyeing of leather and silk have been some 2000 years in China as the natural coloration.Power ultrasound has been explored in the textile coloration.This article aimed at researching the ultrasonic efficiency for dyeing wool fabric with Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.dye in comparison with conventional heating.We get a significant improvement in the color strength values(K/S) at the same condition.The fastness and extent properties of the fabrics treated by ultrasonic were better than those obtained when treated by conventional heating.     

等离子体联合狗毛蛋白改性的毛/粘混纺纱的染色性能

采用3因素3水平正交实验,以上染百分率为指标,优选出有利于改善毛/粘混纺纱线活性染料染色性能的最佳空气等离子体处理条件,即压力120Pa,功率120W,时间5min.并研究经此等离子体联合狗毛蛋白助剂改性的毛/粘混纺纱线的染色性能.结果表明,二者联合处理的混纺纱线的染色性能进一步提高.