PRIMARY APPLICATION OF THE WATER SOLUBLE POLYURETHANE (WPU) TO PROTEIN FABRICS

The primary application of the water soluble polyurethane (WPU) in protein fabrics was investigated. Both WCRA (wet crease recovery angle ) and DCRA ( dry crease recovery angle ) of silk fabrics finished with WPU were increased, and the other properties were only slightly influenced. As a formaldehyde - free silk finishing agent, WPU was proved to have a great future. The felting shrinkage ratio of wool fabrics treated by only WPU was reduced to 12.5% from 36.7%. On the basis of Oxidation/ Resin process, the felting shrinkage ratio of treated wool was 8.7%, and almost reached "Machine washable" level.     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

Enzymatic Treatment for Shrink-proofing of Wool

Introduction Duetothescalestructureandresiliencyproperties, woolhasatendencytoshrinkundertheinfluencesof moisture,detergentsandagitation.Nowadaysthemost commerciallysuccessfulshrink proofingprocedureistheIWS/CSIROchlorine Hercosetttopprocessasa combinationofsubtractiveandadditivemethods[1,2]. However,apartfromyellowingandresultingasynthetichandle,thisprocessproducesabsorbableorganichalogen compounds(AOX)[1,3],whichcauseseverepressureon environmentallegislation[4,5].Forecologicaland econ…     

Wool Surface Modification and Its Adhesion with Nano Finishing Agent

The launderability of wool fabrics treated by nano finishing agent influences directly the functional endurance of the treated wool fabric.In order to investigate the effect of wool fibers surface modification on the functional endurance of nano finishinp wool fibers,in this paper,for the first time wool fibers were chemically modified by using NaClO aqueous and KMnO4 aqueous,and then chemically modified wool fibers and native wool fibers were treated using nano ZnO finishing agent,respectively.The laundera...     

酶复合整理改善羊毛织物的防缩性能

为解决单独用蛋白酶处理羊毛织物时防缩效果不明显且强力降低的问题,提出用碱性蛋白酶对羊毛织物进行处理,部分去除羊毛纤维的鳞片,在此基础上再用谷氨酰胺转胺酶对羊毛进行处理,实现羊毛纤维蛋白质分子之间的交联.扫描了整理前后羊毛织物的红外光谱图,这种酶复合整理工艺使得羊毛织物的防缩性能显著改善,而强力和伸长性能基本保持不变,从而更具应用价值.     

Comparison of Structures and Properties between Wool and Ramie Fibers Treated by Atmospheric Pressure Ar and Ar/O2 Plasma

The technique of atmospheric pressure plasma is of value in textile industry. In this paper, argon (Ar) and argon/oxygen (Ar/O2) atmospheric pressure plasma were used to treat wool and ramie fibers. The structures and properties of treated fibers were investigated by means of SEM, XPS, single fiber tensile tester and so on.The results proved that the effects of plasma treatments depended on structural characteristics of fibers to a great extent, besides conditions of plasma treatment. By atmospheric pressure plasma treatment, wool fiber had significant changes in morphology structure, surface chemical component, mechanic properties and dyeability, while ramie fiber just showed a little change. In additional, Ar/Q2 plasma showed more effective action than argon. And at the beginning of treatment, plasma brought about remarkable effects, which did not increase with prolonging of treat time.     

Fabrication of cotton nano-powder and its textile application

A combination of chemical and mechanical treatment of cotton produced cotton powder （fibrils） with a mean diameter of 97 nm is analyzed by Laser Particle Size Analyzer. Transmission Electron Micro- scope （TEM） study showed that the diameter of the fibrils was about 10--30 nm and the length was from 70nm to over 400 nm. The powder was then coated onto fabrics （100% polyester fabric, 100% wool fabric and 100% cotton fabric）. Scanning Electron Microscope （SEM） study showed that cotton fibrils were adhered to the surface of treated fabrics （fibers）. The ultraviolet protection factor （UPF） value （AS/NZS 4399： 1996） for cotton fabrics increased about 20% after the treatment. This implies that the treated samples give a better protection from UV light. The moisture management test （MMT） of the fabrics such as wetting time at bottom, top maximum absorption rate, bottom maximum absorption rate, bottom maximum wetted radius and bottom spreading speed, et ah, showed that there were significant changes after the treatment. These changes gave better moisture management ability to the treated fabrics and thus made the fabric more comfortable. However, Wide-angle X-ray Diffraction and Fourie Transform Infrared Spectroscopy analysis proved that supermolecular structure and chemical struc- ture of treated fabrics were the same as the original fabrics. Other properties of the treated fabric such as thermal conductivity, wrinkle recovery, hand, et al., did not change. This implied that the basic func- tion of the treated fabrics for the clothing industry was the same as untreated fabrics. This study is a foundation for further researches on textile application.     

氧化棉纤维经角蛋白溶液处理后的结构及性能研究

采用氢氧化钠和双氧水溶解羊毛制得可溶性角蛋白溶液,再对经高碘酸钠选择性氧化的棉纤维进行处理.研究了氧化棉纤维经角蛋白溶液处理后的结构和力学性能.结果表明,氧化棉纤维经角蛋白溶液处理后产生增重,同时在纤维表面吸附成膜,红外光谱表明角蛋白与氧化棉纤维之间形成共价结合,且氧化棉纤维经角蛋白溶液处理后的力学性能基本不变.     

Enzymatic Treatment of Wool

Three proteases were applied to treatments of wool. The shrinkage, dyeing behavior, some physical and mechanical properties of treated wool were studied. Peroxymonosulfate(PMS) and lipase were used to pretreat wool before the treatment of it by protease. The results show that the shrink resistance of wool fabric is not obtained when it is treated only by the protease, but it is remarkably improved when the wool fabric is treated first by PMS or a lipase afterwards by protease. The rate of dyeing is increased when the wool is treated by protease or combination of oxidant/ lipase and protease. Whiteness, luster and softness of treated wool are improved, while the strength and elasticity are reduced.     

反应性阳离子聚氨酯对羊绒针织物起球性能的影响

以自制的反应性阳离子水性聚氨酯对纯羊绒针织物进行抗起毛起球整理,研究整理剂对纯羊绒针织物整理效果及其服用性能的影响。研究结果表明：在整理剂最佳的应用工艺下（整理剂质量浓度50g/L、浴比1：35、整理液pH5.5、40℃下处理20min、100℃烘干）,可显著提高羊绒针织物的抗起毛起球性能,其起毛起球等级从2.0级提高到4.0级,且织物的手感和白度等风格不受整理剂的影响。     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

洋麻仿毛改性研究和产品开发

作者基于洋麻和羊毛在纤维结构和性能上的差异,提出洋麻仿毛改性的依据、目标和条件。通过仿毛改性,改变了洋麻工艺纤维的长度、细度、表面形态,机械性能、可纺性和缩绒性,生产出改性洋麻含量为30％的具有类似纯毛风格的毛麻混纺产品。该产品的开发有重大经济效益。     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorabilitv of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments,the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment improved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Finishing Effect on Warmth Property of Cotton/Kapok Blended Knitted Fabric

Nowadays,more and more natural or functional fibers are being investigated due to their utilization in thermal underwear.Kapok fiber is one of the natural cellulosic fibers whose source is the kapok plant. It has hollow body and sealed tail,which exhibits desirable features required for functional textiles of this nature. In this study,cotton / kapok( 80 /20 by mass) blended yarn with two types of yarn size 18. 5 and 14. 8 tex,respectively are knitted into plain stitches. The fabrics are undergone with an optimal preparation plan according to orthogonal design. Then,after dyeing and softening,fabric properties including thermal and water-vapour resistances, wicking property, pilling behaviour, and surface morphology,are tested and scrutinized for their candidacy for thermal underwear. The results showed that cotton / kapok blended fabrics have good thermal resistance which is significantly higher than those of cotton / modal blended fabrics,and the same water vapour resistance compared with cotton / modal blended fabrics which are normally used as underwear. Cotton / modal blended knitted fabrics has better pilling grade than cotton / kapok blended fabrics. Meanwhile, the cotton / kapok blends fabrics have good wicking property. Collectively,it was concluded that cotton / kapok blended fabric was appropriate for thermal underwear. However,the main limitation of these fabrics is their pilling properties.     

Fibrillation Property of the Lyocell Fibers Treated by N-hydroxymethyl Cross-linking Agents

Lyocell fibers are subject to fibrillate under wet conditions, which severely affects the appearance of this kind of fabrics. Cross-Unking treatment is an important way to prevent fibrillation of lyocell fibers. In this study, two kinds of traditional N-hydroxymethyl cross-linking agents were used to treat lyocell fibers and the wet abrasion values of lyocell fibers were measured in a wet abrasion test. The results show the wet abrasion values of lyocell fibers increase with the increasing concentration of the cross-linking agents, which indicates the anti-fibrillation property of the treated fibers has been improved. But the mechanical properties of the treated fibers decreased in some extent. The FT-IR spectroscopy analysis shows that the lyocell fibers have cross-linked with cross-linking agents. The SEM analysis results show the fibers treated by 4% DMDHEU or 5% SECO have good anti-fibrillation properties.     

Pulsed UV Laser Modification of Polyester Textile Materials:Effect on Wettability

There has recently been great interest in ablative photodecomposition(APD), notably in pulsed UV laser treatment on polymers, for modification of physical and chemical properties, such as dyeability, printability, adhesion, Iuster and many more. Very little attention was focused, however, on the property of wetting behaviour,which is one of the most fundamental properties in affecting polymer science. Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fibers drawn to two different draw ratios and under two temperatures, and three white knitted polyester fabrics made of 100% PET fibre were used to investigate their wetting behaviour due to excimer laser treatment.Experiments like water contact angle measurement, vertical drop test and moisture regain were conducted upon samples and all results give the same conclusion that laser treatment increases the hydrophobicity of all samples tested. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) observation reveals how the morphological modification of polymers by laser treatment is correlate     

Fibrillation Property of the Lyocell Fibers Treated by N-hydroxymethyl Cross-linking Agents

Lyocell fibers are subject to fibrillate under wet conditions, which severely affects the appearance of this kind of fabrics. Cross-linking treatment is an important way to prevent fibrillation of lyocell fibers. In this study, two kinds of traditional N- hydroxymethyl crosslinking agents were used to treat lyocell fibers and the wet abrasion values of lyocell fibers were measured in a wet abrasion test. The results show the wet abrasion values of lyocell fibers increase with the increasing concentration of the cross-linking agents, which indicates the anti-fibrillation property of the treated fibers has been improved. But the mechanical properties of the treated fibers decreased in some extent. The FT-IR spectroscopy analysis shows that the lyocell fibers have cross-linked with cross-linking agents. The SEM analysis results show the fibers treated by 4% DMDHEU or 5%SECO have good anti-fibrillation properties.     

Structures and Properties of Composite Yarns of Filaments and Wool Staple Fibers

More and more composite yarns of filament and wool staple fiber have been applied to develop the new type of fabrics. However, the great difference in yarn structures between the composite yarns and conventional staple yarns does affect the properties of yarns and fabrics. In this paper, it has been studied that the differences of the composite yarn properties of tensile, bending rigidity, torsional rigidity, the hairiness and irregularity etc.     

羊毛拉伸细化技术综述

阐述了国内外羊毛细化技术的发展过程，并详细介绍了拉伸细化的机理及各种工艺流程，同时列表说明改性后纤维，纱线及织物性质的变化。     

The Mechanism of Negative-ion Generation of Natural Fiber Fabrics

Generally there are three kinds of substances used as negative-ion generator in textiles, natural silicate minerals （ceramic/tourmaline）, natural rare-earth minerals and natural sediment with ultra-fine pores. Based on different additive, the mechanism of negative-ion generation is largely divided into three kinds, the piezoelectricity and pyroelectricity of tourmaline crystal, air ionization caused by low-level radiation and breaking up of the clusters of moisture in air when going through the ultra-free pores of natural sediment. In this paper, the negative-ion generating properties of natural fiber fabrics-cctton, wool, silk and linen were first proposed. By some kind of physical stimulation, rubbing or vibrating, natural fiber fabrics without any additive could also emit negative ions. Considering that the piezoelectric effect was observed in wool fibers, silk fibers and cellulose fibers, the piezoelectricity was studied as a mechanism of negative-ion generation of natural fiber fabrics. Another possible mechanism was the tribeelectricity produced by the sense of ntbbtng or vibrating and tip discharge of hairiness. The Final experiment results verified that the latter would be the main reason, and the electrolytic dissociation of moisture was also contributing to negative-ion generation.