基于粘弹性理论研究毛涤混纺织物折皱回复行为

根据标准的折皱回复测试实验对各种混纺比的毛涤织物进行了研究．基于纺织材料的粘弹性理论，把研究对象看成是具有内摩擦约束作用的粘弹性体，利用标准线性固体模型和滑块并联组成的模型分析了不同混纺比例的毛涤织物折痕回复性，并推导出折皱回复角的回复规律方程．实验证明，该模型能较好地反映毛涤织物折皱回复角的回复规律．     

梭织物双向弯曲的研究

本文用新的观点探讨了梭织物双轴双向弯曲的试验方法及数学力学模型。通过大量试验证实了织物在广泛曲率范围内的抗弯刚度的非线性规律。通过非线性修正,得出了双向弯曲过程中压弯力P与变形程度D之间的预测关系式。     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

THE EFFECT OF, ABRASION ON LOW STRESS MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF FABRIC

The low stress mechanical properties of a pure wool and a wool / polyester blend twill fab-rics which were abraded at various abrasion cycles were measured using the KES-F system andthe Instron tensile machine. The surface change of fabrics before and after abrasion was stu-died by means of scanning electron microscope. With the increasing number of cycles, the re-covery behavior of the fabrics studied in tensile, shear and bending deformation decrease, theantibuckling ability lowers, the friction coefficient increases. The geometric roughness de-creases during the first step of abrasion then enhances with further abrasion. The influence ofabrasion on mechanical properties of the pure wool fabric are larger than that of blend fabric.     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

An Efficient Way of Fabric Simulation

A particle system model is presented for the simulation of fabric draping. The interaction of each particle is based on a refined mass-spring structure. Regarded the fabric material as an orthotropic continuum, the refinement of our model is focused on the construction of mechanical responses of bending and shearing springs by means of a piecewise polynomial approximation of KES-F testing data. In this way, the draping figure of a silk fabric, a wool fabric and a polyester fabric are simulated. The static final shape and animation of simulation proves that our model has developed an efficient technique on real fabric-drape modeling, and the little computation time of the simulation execution on a PC with Celeron 450 CPU may meet the requirement of real-time simulation.     

亲水性疏水性织物动态热湿舒适性比较研究

以纯毛织物作为亲水性织物的代表、以纯涤纶织物作为疏水性织物的代表，利用织物动态热湿舒适性能测试仪，采用定量汗液蒸发的方法，研究了两类织物的动态热湿舒适性能，并对两者的差异进行了理论分析。研究表明：在动态条件下由于皮肤要经历干燥—出汗—蒸发—干燥、织物要经历干燥—吸湿—放湿—干燥的过程，此时，亲水性的吸湿性好的织物对汗液的蒸发起了阻碍作用，因此动态条件下使用疏水性的织物比使用亲水性的织物更趋合理。     

夏季服用织物动态热湿舒适性的影响因素研究

利用自制的织物动态热湿性能测试仪测定了不同透气性和不同原料的夏季服用织物在皮肤干燥-出汗-蒸发-干燥的过程中的皮肤热损失、微气候区温湿度变化的情况,研究了影响夏季服用织物动态热湿舒适性的因素,指出在外界风速较大或织物的透气量较大时,汗液蒸发是通过紊流扩散进行,由于汗液的快速蒸发,可能使人体产生冷感,此时不同织物的微气候区温湿度差别很小,当外界风速小或织物的透气性小时,汗液的蒸发通过分子扩散进行,此时微气候区的湿度主要受织物吸湿能力的影响,吸湿能力较强时湿度低,纯涤织物在出汗后,由于微气候区湿度较高,将使人产生闷热感,在出汗结束后降温较多可能产生冷感,不宜作为夏季服用织物,纯毛织物因吸湿放热多在出汗初期升温较高,不利于散热,夏季以穿着纯棉、涤棉、毛涤混纺织物的服装为宜.     

Study on the Factors to Influence Dynamic Heat - moisture Comfort of Summer Clothing Fabrics

In this paper, the factors to influence the dynamic heat - moisture comfort of summer clothing fabrics have been studied. It is pointed out that, when the wind speed outside is high, or the air permeability is very good, the sweat of human body will evaporate mainly through turbulent diffusion. Because of the rapid sweat evaporation, human body will feel cold, and then, the difference in temperature and humidity of the micro - climatic section will be very slight. On the contrary, when the wind speed outside is slow or the air permeability is unsatisfactory, the sweat of human body will evaporate mainly through molecular diffusion, and in this case, the humidity of the micro - climatic section will be depended on the hygroscopicity of the fabric, that' s to say, the better the hygroscopicity, the lower the humidity. It is difficult for pure wool fabric to loss heat because of its giving out much heat during the course of moisture - absorption in the initial stages of sweating. For pure polyester fabric,     

夏季服装面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气倏条件下的人体穿着试验，探讨了出汗对夏季服装面料舒适性的影响。研究表明在人体没有出汗的条件下，柔软度是影响夏季服装面料舒适性的主要因素。在人体出汗的条件下，服装面料的舒适性普遍降低，其中涤纶面料的舒适性降低最为显著，主要原因是由于涤纶纤维的吸湿性差。     

Bending Hysteresis of Twill Woven Fabrics in Various Directions

This paper investigates the bending hysteresis of twill woven fabrics in various directions. In this research, existing models for the prediction of bending rigidity of woven fabrics are applied to bending hysteresis. Wide range of cotton twill woven fabrics is examined by comparing the theoretical data and experimental results. The results of this paper indicated that Peirce's, Shinohara et al's and Cooper's models can be applied to the prediction of bending hysteresis of twill woven fabrics. Besides, the results also show that ratio V, introduced by Cooper, of a cotton twill fabric is found to have the range between 0.8 and 1.4. The general shape of the polar diagram of bending hysteresis along the weft direction is spreading outwards with the increase in ratio V from the range 0.8 to 1. However, the general shape of bending hysteresis will collapse around the weft direction when ratio V is increased from 1 and 1.4.     

温度和pH值对羊毛织物尺寸稳定性的影响

通过一系列实验分析了温度和pH值对羊毛纤维的膨胀和羊毛织物尺寸变化的影响．在pH2．1的溶液中，羊毛织物的尺寸随温度的升高而下降，变化的幅度取决于织物组织和织物的定型率．在羊毛等电点pH4．8时，纤维的膨胀达到最小值，而织物的尺寸则随着溶液酸性的增加而减小．     

Haptic Evaluation of the Prickle of Fabrics: Axial Compression Bending Tests On Ramie Fibers

IntroductionThehandleoffabricshasbeenthesubjectofaverylargenumberofstudiesformorethan30years.FromthepioneeringworkofPierceinthe1930stomorerecenttechniques[1],manystudieshavesoughttorelatehandletospecificfabricmechanicalpropertiesandthroughthemtofiberproperties.Althoughsmoothness,softness,andstiffnessdeterminethephysicalandmechanicalbehaviorofafabricandthesubjectiveassessmentofqualitywhenitishandled,thesensationsperceivedfromthecontactofclothingwiththeskincangreatlyinfluenceouroverallstateofcom…     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

IN RELATION TO CLOTHING COMFORT DYNAMIC MOISTURE TRANSFER THROUGH FABRICS

A sweating apparatus has been developed to permit simultaneous measurement for fabric temperature change and relative humidity change at outer still air layer of fabrics. In this paper, we compared the temperature and relative humidity changes for silk fabrics with polyester fabrics and got GM(1,P) relation models respectively between maximum fabric temperature change, maximum relative humidity change at outer still air layer and relative fabric character parameters. Furthermore, by comparing the objective experiments with subjective wear trials, it is found that the amounts of the change rate of fabric temperature and relative humidity at outer still layer are the most important factors which influence clothing comfort in dynamic moisture transfer condition. The more the changes of temperature and R.H., the more the mugginess and the thermal sensation.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorabilitv of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments,the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment improved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Study and Application of Objective Evaluation Model on Fabric Style

Based on 31 fabric property parameters tested by FAST test system and other test instruments, the principal factors of fabric style are obtained through the principal factor analysis method and computer program. According to the correlation between each parameter and principal factor,the selected positive or negative coefficient, the objective evaluation model of fabric style bas been established based on the percentage of variance. And wool fabrics have been taken for example to show how to use the objective evaluation model for fabric design.     

＂Nonwoven＂ Versus ＂Engineered Fabric＂： the Impact These Terms Have on the 15- to 25-Year-Old Females＇ Intent to Purchase

Since the fall of 2004, textile and apparel students at a United States public university have been designing apparel with nonwoven fabrics. Over the last two years, the students' designs have sparked interest in the industry which has begun to create new and innovative fabric designs. The industry, however, still struggles over the best name for the fabric. This sparked the research question, "What impact 15- to 25-year-old's intent to purchase a garment?"Through a convenience sampling method, an online questionnaire was distributed to 15- to 25-year-old United States females. The questionnaire included questions regarding demographics and psychographics, and asked respondents to choose garments they would intend to purchase based on known attributes such as style, brand,price, place, and fabrication and fiber content. There were a total of 14 garments, seven tops and seven bottoms. Four of these garments, two tops and two bottoms were constructed of nonwoven fabrics.The respondents accepted the nonwoven fabrics when shown in garments in an online setting. This demonstrates that visually, these fabrics are comparable to traditional woven and knit fabrics. The "nonwoven" polyester and nylon blend fabric increased in popularity when the respondents were told the fabrication and fiber content.However, the "engineered" polyester and polyethylene blend fabric dropped to last place when fabrication and fiber content were known. This indicates that 15- to 25-year-old respondents do not understand or are not interested in fibers or fabrications described as "engineered fabric" with a polyester/polyethylene blend. More research will have to be done to determine if the fabrication term "engineered fabric"or if the polyester/polyethylene blend fiber content caused a lack of interest or decreased intent to purchase.Research has currently begun to determine the right combination of fiber content and fiber size to develop a nonwoven fabric with an acceptable hand for apparel fabrics.     

Fabrication of cotton nano-powder and its textile application

A combination of chemical and mechanical treatment of cotton produced cotton powder （fibrils） with a mean diameter of 97 nm is analyzed by Laser Particle Size Analyzer. Transmission Electron Micro- scope （TEM） study showed that the diameter of the fibrils was about 10--30 nm and the length was from 70nm to over 400 nm. The powder was then coated onto fabrics （100% polyester fabric, 100% wool fabric and 100% cotton fabric）. Scanning Electron Microscope （SEM） study showed that cotton fibrils were adhered to the surface of treated fabrics （fibers）. The ultraviolet protection factor （UPF） value （AS/NZS 4399： 1996） for cotton fabrics increased about 20% after the treatment. This implies that the treated samples give a better protection from UV light. The moisture management test （MMT） of the fabrics such as wetting time at bottom, top maximum absorption rate, bottom maximum absorption rate, bottom maximum wetted radius and bottom spreading speed, et ah, showed that there were significant changes after the treatment. These changes gave better moisture management ability to the treated fabrics and thus made the fabric more comfortable. However, Wide-angle X-ray Diffraction and Fourie Transform Infrared Spectroscopy analysis proved that supermolecular structure and chemical struc- ture of treated fabrics were the same as the original fabrics. Other properties of the treated fabric such as thermal conductivity, wrinkle recovery, hand, et al., did not change. This implied that the basic func- tion of the treated fabrics for the clothing industry was the same as untreated fabrics. This study is a foundation for further researches on textile application.