洋麻仿毛改性研究和产品开发

作者基于洋麻和羊毛在纤维结构和性能上的差异,提出洋麻仿毛改性的依据、目标和条件。通过仿毛改性,改变了洋麻工艺纤维的长度、细度、表面形态,机械性能、可纺性和缩绒性,生产出改性洋麻含量为30％的具有类似纯毛风格的毛麻混纺产品。该产品的开发有重大经济效益。     

Plasma Modification of Wool: The Effect of Plasma Gas on the Properties of the Wool Fabric

The wool fabrics were treated with low temperature plasma (LTP) using three different gases, namely (ⅰ) oxygen, (ⅱ) nitrogen and (ⅲ) 25％ hydrogen/75％ nitrogen gas mixture. After LTP treatment, the low stress mechanical properties, surface properties and thermal properties of the fabrics were investigated by kES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System) Instruments composing of KES-FBI for tensile and shear property measurement, KES-FB2 for pure bending measurement, kES-FB3 for compression measurement, KES-FB4 for surface friction and surface roughness measurement, and KES-F7 for thermal property measurement. The first four instruments were used for investigating the charaeterlstlc aspect related to fabrle hand while the last one was mainly for the fabric comfort. The properties of LTP treated fabrics under the effect of different gases were compared with the untreated fabric quantitatively.     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

亲水性疏水性织物动态热湿舒适性比较研究

以纯毛织物作为亲水性织物的代表、以纯涤纶织物作为疏水性织物的代表，利用织物动态热湿舒适性能测试仪，采用定量汗液蒸发的方法，研究了两类织物的动态热湿舒适性能，并对两者的差异进行了理论分析。研究表明：在动态条件下由于皮肤要经历干燥—出汗—蒸发—干燥、织物要经历干燥—吸湿—放湿—干燥的过程，此时，亲水性的吸湿性好的织物对汗液的蒸发起了阻碍作用，因此动态条件下使用疏水性的织物比使用亲水性的织物更趋合理。     

Comparison of Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Light Weight Wool and Wool Blend Fabrics using the KES-F and FAST Instruments

This study compares the test results of the FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) with those of the KES - F (Kawabata Evaluation Systems for Fabrics) for a range of nineteen light weight wool and wool blend fabrics in terms of the low - stress mechanical properties of bending, shear, and tensile deformation. It is found that there are very significant correlations between the corresponding parameters for extensibility and shear rigidity obtained from the test results of the two systems. The correlation between the values of bending rigidity obtained from the two systems is only moderate. Furthermore, for the fabrics tested in this study, the values of bending rigidity, shear rigidity, and extensibility measured using the KES - F instruments are higher than those of the corresponding parameters measured using the FAST instruments. The linear regression equation is given for each pair of corresponding parameter.     

兔羊毛机织物起球特点与影响因素探讨

起球是影响织物服用性能的主要因素之一。本文采用YG502型园轨迹织物起毛起球仪,对50/50兔羊毛机织物进行磨球,并通过投影显微镜观察磨球次数与球体结构形态、球体密度和数量的关系,同时,就起球的影响因素,包括茸毛高度、定型程度、以及化学树脂整理剂及柔软剂进行研究。显微镜观察发现,50/50兔羊毛机织物球体中2/3以上纤维是兔毛纤维,而球芯则以较粗的羊毛纤维为多。为综合考虑球体大小、数量和纤维纠缠密度对感官的影响,提出了起球程度评价指标——等价面积值,其较传统五级分类法更为客观,准确。 对织物起球过程的研究表明,由茸毛转为球体的临界磨球次数为10～20次;磨球20～200次是球体大量形成时期;之后球体形成减少;磨球1000次以后落球开始。此规律可由起球曲线反映。试样经优化处理后,其起球曲线变化趋势基本不变,但绝对值与相对变化率均较原样对应值为小。 本研究显示定形与起球关系不明显;降低绒毛高度、添加一定浓度的树脂对减少起球效果明显,柔软剂的添加则可增加起球机会。此实验结果对生产上正确应用剪毛工艺、树脂和柔软剂添加与保持优良织物外观和手感的关系处理具有重要的指导意义。     

电晕处理对纯棉牛仔布性能的研究

采用电晕技术对纯棉牛仔布进行处理,讨论电晕处理工艺(时间、电压)对牛仔布性能的影响。对电晕处理后的纯棉牛仔布的颜色变化,拉伸性能、润湿性能等进行测试,结果表明:电晕处理后的牛仔布吸湿性显著增加,拉伸强力略有降低,布面颜色深度降低。     

Prediction Method for Tensile Property of Woven Fabrics in Lower Loads

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大豆蛋白纤维膜代尔混纺针织物力学性能分析

采用多功能织物强力机等实验仪器对5种不同混纺比例的大豆蛋白纤维／莫代尔混纺针织物的性能进行了测试分析．结果表明，随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加，大豆蛋白纤维混纺针织物的断裂强力有增加的趋势，断裂伸长率也随之增加；大豆蛋白纤维／莫代尔混纺针织物的项破强力随大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加而下降；大豆蛋白纤维混纺针织物的撕破强力逐渐下降，尤其是在大豆蛋白纤维质量分数为100％时，织物的撕破强力最小；大豆蛋白纤维混纺针织物的纵向、横向弯曲长度逐渐下降，而其柔软性提高；大豆蛋白纤维／莫代尔混纺针织物的起毛起球性逐渐增加，织物磨损时的质量损失率逐渐增大，说明大豆蛋白纤维混纺针织物的耐磨性逐渐下降，在大豆蛋白纤维含量为100％时，即纯大豆蛋白纤维织物的耐磨性最差．     

大豆蛋白纤维/莫代尔混纺针织物力学性能分析

采用多功能织物强力机等实验仪器对5种不同混纺比例的大豆蛋白纤维/莫代尔混纺针织物的性能进行了测试分析.结果表明,随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加,大豆蛋白纤维混纺针织物的断裂强力有增加的趋势,断裂伸长率也随之增加;大豆蛋白纤维/莫代尔混纺针织物的顶破强力随大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加而下降;大豆蛋白纤维混纺针织物的撕破强力逐渐下降,尤其是在大豆蛋白纤维质量分数为100%时,织物的撕破强力最小;大豆蛋白纤维混纺针织物的纵向、横向弯曲长度逐渐下降,而其柔软性提高;大豆蛋白纤维/莫代尔混纺针织物的起毛起球性逐渐增加,织物磨损时的质量损失率逐渐增大,说明大豆蛋白纤维混纺针织物的耐磨性逐渐下降,在大豆蛋白纤维含量为100%时,即纯大豆蛋白纤维织物的耐磨性最差.     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

Study on the Durabilities of Trouser''''s Appearance and the Fabric Designing

The durability of trouser's appearance involves the durability of crease and seam line after pressing, bagging resistance, wrinkle resistance, pilling resistance on the surface during wear. These properties are very important for the tailored trousers. It is investigated how the durability of trouser's appearance is related to properties of the blend ratio of wool and PET, the yarn structure and fabric mechanical properties.     

织物起球与纤维力学性能的关系

在影响织物起球性能的各种纤维性能中，除纤维的几何形态（线密度、截面形状、长度等）之外，经过测试研究分析筛选出来的主要影响因素是纤维的重复弯曲疲劳强度、重复扭转疲劳强度、拉伸断裂相对强度、拉伸断裂伸长率和拉伸初始模量．后者与织物的手感也有很密切的关系．本文研制了学纤维重复弯曲疲劳测试仪、单纤维重复扭转疲劳测试仪，优选了它们的测试条件参数，先后测试了绵羊毛，山羊绒、马海毛等纤维和２０余种化学纤维的性能，并经过优选工艺，对由１３种纤维纯纺或混纺生产的７种毛型梭织物进行了起球规律的测试、试穿和研究，发现在研究中织物的穿着起球效果与客观测试中随摩擦次数球粒数变化的曲线下积分值相关最密切．最后对纤维五种力学性能与织物起球曲线下积分值进行了主成分析和多元回归分析，获得了由纤维力学性能评价织物起球性能的预测方程式．     

Wearability of Copper Ion Complex Bamboo Pulp Knitted Fabrics with Chitosan Pretreatment

Wearability is one of important factors for the textile product quality. The wearability of bamboo pulp knitted fabrics was mainly discussed which were treated with chitosan and cupper ammonia solution. Tensile and bursting properties, abrasion resistance,drapability,air permeability,moisture-penetrability and warmth retention properties of fabrics were tested to investigate the changes. The results showed that chitosan pretreatment improved the tensile and bursting strengths,abrasion resistance and moisture penetrability,but decreased the drapability and air permeability.Copper ammonia solution treatments decreased the tensile and bursting strengths,abrasion resistance and air permeability,but increased the drapability, moisture penetrability and warmth retention properties.     

自制耐磨仪及其对羽绒面料折皱点的耐磨性测试

为探索新的织物耐磨性测试方法,设计并制造出自制耐磨仪。介绍了自制耐磨仪的原理、结构以及测试方法。在一定充气压力下应用自制耐磨仪对织物折皱点进行摩擦,通过气流量的变化实时反映织物的磨损情况,通过伯努利方程将变化气流量转化为等效孔径,选取等效孔径值来评价织物折皱点的耐磨性能。采用正交试验,选取摩擦速度、充气压力、面料厚度3个测试参数,对羽绒面料折皱点的耐磨性能进行了测试,分析了它们对羽绒面料折皱点耐磨性能的影响。结果表明,自制耐磨仪在一定条件下,可表征羽绒面料折皱点的耐磨性能。充气压力和面料厚度对羽绒面料折皱点的耐磨性能有显著影响,摩擦速度对其影响不显著,充气压力的影响最为显著。研究结果为改善羽绒服面料折皱点的耐磨性提供了借鉴方法。     

聚丙烯酸酯涂层胶与硅橡胶的共混研究

为改善聚丙烯酸酯类涂层胶(AR 502)的低温手感和拒水性,本文采用了 AR 502与硅橡胶(106)共混方法。着重以 SEM 法和溶解度参数法研究了二者的相容性,共混体形态结构及共混比对共混体拒水性、手感等性能的影响。在10/90～15/85(106/AR 502)共混比范围内制得了具有优良拒水性和低温柔软手感的涂层织物,其拒水性由10%提高到90%,刚度由44mm 降低到33mm。     

Flexural Properties of Weft Knitted Fabric Reinforced Composites

Several different kinds of weft knitted fabrics from glass fiber yarns were used as reinforcement to make fabric/ polyester composite laminates. Flexural tests were carried out to examine stress-deflection process and compare the mechanical properties in course and wale directions of these composites. The experimental results indicate that the numbers of load-bearing yarn in course and wale direction and the fabric density are the main factors influencing the ultimate tensile strength and initial elastic modulus of specimens.     

Strength Properties of 3D Solid Orthogonal Panel Fabrics

IntroductionWith the development of high performance fiber andtextile perform manufacturing technology, fiber reinforcedcomposite materials are getting more and more attractivebecause they have many advantages such as their highstiffness and strength at low density, high specific energyabsorption behavior, and excellent fatigue performance.Therefore they are frequently used in a wide variety ofapplications[1], although most of them are two dimensional(2D) laminated comp…     

Fabrication of cotton nano-powder and its textile application

A combination of chemical and mechanical treatment of cotton produced cotton powder （fibrils） with a mean diameter of 97 nm is analyzed by Laser Particle Size Analyzer. Transmission Electron Micro- scope （TEM） study showed that the diameter of the fibrils was about 10--30 nm and the length was from 70nm to over 400 nm. The powder was then coated onto fabrics （100% polyester fabric, 100% wool fabric and 100% cotton fabric）. Scanning Electron Microscope （SEM） study showed that cotton fibrils were adhered to the surface of treated fabrics （fibers）. The ultraviolet protection factor （UPF） value （AS/NZS 4399： 1996） for cotton fabrics increased about 20% after the treatment. This implies that the treated samples give a better protection from UV light. The moisture management test （MMT） of the fabrics such as wetting time at bottom, top maximum absorption rate, bottom maximum absorption rate, bottom maximum wetted radius and bottom spreading speed, et ah, showed that there were significant changes after the treatment. These changes gave better moisture management ability to the treated fabrics and thus made the fabric more comfortable. However, Wide-angle X-ray Diffraction and Fourie Transform Infrared Spectroscopy analysis proved that supermolecular structure and chemical struc- ture of treated fabrics were the same as the original fabrics. Other properties of the treated fabric such as thermal conductivity, wrinkle recovery, hand, et al., did not change. This implied that the basic func- tion of the treated fabrics for the clothing industry was the same as untreated fabrics. This study is a foundation for further researches on textile application.