低温氧等离子体处理对羊毛织物性能的影响

为了改善羊毛织物的毡缩、润湿等性能,采用低温氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行改性处理.通过单因素实验,综合评价羊毛织物处理前后的性能变化情况,分析了羊毛织物性能变化与等离子体处理时间、功率和压强变化之间的相互关系;利用原子力显微镜表征了处理前后羊毛纤维鳞片结构的变化情况.实验结果表明,利用低温氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行改性处理,可以获得较好的防毡缩效果,并能改善织物的润湿性能.有效控制处理条件,织物的断裂强力和伸长率不但不会减小,反而可以得到一定程度的增强.     

蛹蛋白粘胶长丝/棉交织针织物练漂工艺的研究

蛹蛋白粘胶长丝在碱性条件下将发生水解。通过单因子和多因子正交实验对蛹蛋白粘胶／棉交织针织物进行了练漂工艺的探索，讨论了各工艺因素对纤维表面蛋白质、织物强力、毛细效应、白度的影响程度，并得到了该织物最佳的练漂工艺。     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

羊毛纤维的形态弱节及特征

对羊毛纤维弱节的几何形态特征，采用SEM观察进行了分类定义和表征。实际观察发现羊毛的弱节有纤维细颈和形态结构缺陷二类，其中形态结构缺陷主要是天然生长和人为加工中的畸变点和损伤点。弱节的几何长度为纤维直径的2－4倍，且弱节越多，纤维直径离散越大。同时分析了羊毛形态弱节的主要成因。     

羊毛束细化拉伸的参数优化与效果表征

采用自制细化装置和测量单元对羊毛毛条进行拉伸细化，结合正交试验得出优化的预浸、拉伸、定形的工艺条件。基于本优化工艺条件所得的细化毛条和澳洲的“Optim^TM羊毛”进行了纤维特征和改性效果的综合对比分析。试验结果证明：细化拉伸处理后，羊毛细度、长度、光泽明显改善，但纤维伸长率变小，长度离散度变大，这对纺织加工提出了新的要求。     

羊毛及其角朊膜显微傅立叶红外光谱对比分析

运用傅立叶变换红外光谱（FTIR）技术对羊毛、由该羊毛溶解制成的角朊蛋白膜、再生羊毛和腈纶进行对比分析。通过显微FTIR光谱的特征峰讨论，比较了此类试样在组成和结构上的差别。     

Scouring Process of Natural Color Cotton Products

In order to improve the absorbency of color cotton products, alkali and pectase scouring processes under different conditions were tested,by comparing the actual results of two different scouring processes. It was considered that the pectase scouring process more suits color cotton products.     

绵羊毛与山羊绒的鉴别

利用扫描电镜法测试分析66S的绵羊毛与一级除毛山羊绒,得到了以直径、表面鳞片高以及表面鳞片厚为指标的绵羊毛与山羊绒各自的频率分布,并计算出以这3个指标为判定依据的独立误判概率.在验证了3个指标为线性无关后,将3个独立误判概率相乘,从而大幅度降低了绵羊毛与山羊绒之间的误判概率.实验结果证实了这一结论.     

Influence of the Process Conditions on the Formation df AOX Compounds during Wool Chlorine Pretreatment

Chlorination occurred simultaneously with oxidation when wool was treated by chlorine-containing reagents. The adsorbable organic halogens( AOX) compounds were produced by the chlorination of amino acid residues, especially tyrosine residue. The factors that might influence the reaction of dichloroisocyanuric acid (DCCA) with tyrosine residue were discussed. Higher temperature, appropriate pH value and lower concentration of chloride ion are favorable to decrease the percentage of chlorination. Determination of optimum process conditions would be helpful to control AOX compounds formation during wool chlorine pretreatment.     

One-bath Dyeing of Polyester/Wool Blend with Disperse Dyes

The role of auxiliary LAB as vehicle in dyeing polyester/ wool blends with disperse dyes is described. Dye exhaustion and bonding on polyester/wool samples are studied under different experimental conditions - the LAB amount, the temperature and pH value - to achieve optimum conditions. The results are compared with those obtained with and without conventional dyeing auxiliary products. Although dye exhaustion is higher in the presence of commercial carriers, the dye bonded increases markedly in the presence of auxiliary LAB in both fibers. The role played by auxiliary LAB in polyester/wool blend dyeing can provide a new method for this process.