中日两国近代毛纺织工业对比研究

中国和日本的近代毛纺织工业都是在19世纪80年代从西方引进的。但今天日本按人口平均的毛纺织生产能力已为中国的10倍。这两国毛纺织工业的宏观发展都可分为4个阶段:①1913年以前的初创阶段;②1914～1936年的奠基阶段;⑧1937～1949年的曲折阶段;④1950以后的成长阶段。但微观分析可见,这两国之间存在许多差异,本文简要地描述了这些差异。通过这种对比,可得出近代毛纺织工业发展的若干共同规律。     

PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF A NEW ANTIFELTING RESIN FOR WOOL FABRICS

In this paper,a new resin called Resin M for imparting antifelting properties to wool fabricshas been studied.Resin M may be used by aqueous oxidative/polymer technique.It is provedthat Oxidant A/Resin M treatment can satisfy the machine washable requirement formulated byI.W.S..Resin M is a good agent for antifelting treatment of wool fabrics with proper pretreatment.Oxidant A/Resin M treatment has little influence on dyeing and moisture adsorption properties ofwool fibers.The pilling resistance of the treated fabrics is higher than that of the untreated ones.The strength and the handle of the treated fabrics have little been changed.According to thescanning electron microscope observations,it is recommended that the polymer encapsulation ofindividual fiber also plays an important role in the felting resistance of the treated fabrics though itis well known that the shrink resistance of the treated fabrics is believed to be due to the binding offibers.     

发展中的中国毛纺织工业

从生产能力发展、原料资源开发、产品品种增多和质量提高、加工技术进步和装备水平提高、老厂技术改造以及市场开拓等六个方面介绍了中国毛纺织工业的历史与现状。     

羊毛的变性及变性羊毛阳离子染料染色

羊毛经阴离子型活性变性剂处理后，纤维侧基上被引入阴离子型基因，具有和腈纶纤维类似的结构。因而，变性羊毛能够用阳离子染料染色。增大变性剂的分子量、共轭双键数及相对疏水性，变性羊毛用阳离子染料染色时上染速率和上染率均可显著地增大，染色牢度也大为改善，但对酸性染料产生防染作用。从变性羊毛的红外吸收光谱图上可看到，在波数为１１５０～１２６０ｃｍ－１、１０１０～１０８０ｃｍ－１和６００—７００ｃｍ－１处均出现磺酸基的特征吸收峰。变性剂和羊毛间形成共价结合成为纤维侧基的一部分。变性羊毛表面的电性能有较大变化，但其物理机械性能如减溶解度、弹性、断裂强度等基本不受影响。     

酸性媒介黑T低温低铬染色工艺的探讨

对酸性媒介黑Ｔ低温低铬染色工艺进行试验研究．结果表明，用氨／盐溶液在一定条件下预处理的羊毛，在８０～８５℃下加适当稀土染色、其上染率高于常规染色，染色牢度达到常规染色水平，并能减少红矾用量、降低纤维损伤、节约能量和染料、降低铬污染．     

北极狐绒毛纤维的热学性能研究

采用热重和差热分析方法测试了北极狐绒毛的热学特征，以及不同温度、时间的热处理对纤维强力、强伸度的影响．实验结果表明，随温度升高北极狐绒毛的TG曲线有两个失重阶，DSC曲线呈现出与羊毛、山羊绒相似的双熔融峰；在热分解温度的前后北极狐绒毛纤维的断裂强力和断裂伸长率呈先上升后下降趋势．     

Union Dyeing Behavior on the Blends of Tencel and Shrink-proofing Wool with the Same Reactive Dyestuffs in One Bath

In order to obtain union colour on the blends of Tencel and shrink-proofing wool and improve the efficiency of dyeing process, the dyeing behavior on the blends of Tencel and shrink-proofing wool in the same bath was studied. The Argazol TW reactive dyestuffs were involved in the dyeing process. The parameters under different conditions such as exhaustion, fixation, compatibility as well as soaping fastness were investigated in detail. It is shown that the Argazol TW reactive dyestuffs are suitable for dyeing of blends of Tencel and shrink-proofing wool and good dyeing behavior can be expected.     

Torsional Properties and Torque Relaxation of Cashmere Yarn

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针织羊毛衫手感的研究

在实验基础上探讨了不同纱线捻度。不同编织密度以及不同缩绒温度和缩绒时间的纬平针羊毛衫力学性质的变化规律。通过模糊评价得出编织密度是影响羊毛衫手感的最主要因素,提出了本实验用羊毛衫品种的合理工艺搭配。     

兔毛纺织品防脱毛技术的研究

对兔毛纤维采用生物酶处理，使其形态结构发生改变，从而提高了兔毛纤维的表面摩擦系数，增加了纤维之间的抱舍力，提高了纤维的可纺性，改善了兔毛纺织品的脱毛现象．