羊毛束细化拉伸的参数优化与效果表征

采用自制细化装置和测量单元对羊毛毛条进行拉伸细化，结合正交试验得出优化的预浸、拉伸、定形的工艺条件。基于本优化工艺条件所得的细化毛条和澳洲的“Optim^TM羊毛”进行了纤维特征和改性效果的综合对比分析。试验结果证明：细化拉伸处理后，羊毛细度、长度、光泽明显改善，但纤维伸长率变小，长度离散度变大，这对纺织加工提出了新的要求。     

毛条细化拉伸过程的表征研究

利用自行设计的拉伸细化测量装置，实时测量了羊毛纤维条拉伸的力学行为，提取了表征纤维拉伸细化的特征参数，并在此基础上，讨论和分析了不同拉伸条件对纤维细化过程的影响．     

羊毛拉伸细化技术综述

阐述了国内外羊毛细化技术的发展过程，并详细介绍了拉伸细化的机理及各种工艺流程，同时列表说明改性后纤维，纱线及织物性质的变化。     

羊毛细化拉伸系统的作用分析

对羊毛细化罗拉拉伸系统的作用进行分析，建立了纤维拉伸倍数计算公式，得出纤维有效拉伸的条件，并通过实例验证了有关分析。     

拉伸羊毛分子结构的显微红外光谱分析

应用显微镜偏振红外光谱法分析了拉伸羊毛纤维大分子结构的变化，通过对特征谱带的分析，得到了羊毛大分子链段结构和大分子构象随拉伸率的变化情况；由此可知，显微红外光谱具有很高的灵敏度，应用偏振显微红外光谱可以准确地对纤维大分子结构的变化进行分析和表征。     

拉伸率、捻度对牦牛毛拉伸细化的影响

借助牦牛毛纤维拉伸曲线，分析了不同细化工艺处理后纤维的拉伸性能以及细度变化，进而寻求纤维的最佳细化处理参数。     

高温热湿处理羊毛纤维的微观结构与性能研究

本文研究了羊毛纤维经高温蒸汽及高温水煮处理后的吸湿性能与拉伸性能的变化．采用扫描电子显微镜及X射线衍射仪，分析了羊毛纤维经高温热湿处理后微观结构形态及结晶度．结果表明，经不同温度及时间的蒸汽、水煮处理后，羊毛纤维的吸湿性能出现不规律的变化，而纤维的拉仲强力及伸长则降低；经高温热湿处理后，羊毛纤维的鳞片遭到破坏，纤维结晶指数下降．     

拉伸-定型处理对毛发鳞片层改性的异同比较(Herbig反应)

人发及羊毛等角蛋白纤维经拉伸-定型处理后，其漂白性能、染色性能以及反应性等发生一定的变化。通过Herbig反应研究了拉伸-定型处理对毛发纤维鳞片层改性的规律，比较了拉伸-定型处理对人发及羊毛纤维改性作用的不同，从而探讨了拉伸-定型处理对毛发纤维改性的机理。结果表明，拉伸-定型处理对毛发纤维鳞片表层的破坏作用不大，而使表层以下的鳞片层部分发生较大的改性。     

不同测试条件对羊毛／莱卡包芯纱拉伸性能的影响

通过正交试验，分析拉伸速度、夹持长度、纱线线密度TF等因素对羊毛／莱卡包芯纱拉伸性能的影响．实验结果表明，影响纱线拉伸断裂强度程度大小依次为纱线线密度、拉伸速度、夹持长度；同种线密度的羊毛／莱卡包芯纱，在相同拉伸速度的条件下，随着夹持长度的增大，羊毛／莱卡包芯纱的断裂强力减小；在相同拉伸速度的条件下，包芯纱的断裂伸长率随着夹持长度增大而减小．     

美利奴羊毛高速拉伸性能的研究

美利奴羊毛高速拉伸性能几乎没有系统的研究报道．作者研制了一台能直接测定美利奴羊毛高速拉伸性能的装置，介绍了测定方法．该装置的测试结果表明，随着拉伸变形速率增大，美利奴羊毛的杨氏模量和断裂强度增加，断裂伸长降低．不过，当拉伸变形速率高于２×１０５～４×１０５％／ｍｉｎ的某一临界值时，变化趋势变得非常平缓．因止，用应变临界值下的纤维拉伸性能可估计更高变形率下纤维的拉伸性能．     

The Process Analysis of the Roller Stretching for Wool Slenderization

A theoretical estimation for the multiple-drawinghas been derived under the consideration of fiberlength distribution for the wool fiber stretchingsystem. The functions of the roller drawing systemand the parameters in stretching process have alsobeen analyzed. The theoretical algorithms have been     

Investigating the Microstructure of Slenderized Wool Fibers at Different Stretching Ratios by Raman Spectroscopy

The molecular conformation and the microstructure of the slenderized wool fibers have been studied by the Raman spectroscopy. The typical bands analyzed in this paper include the amideⅠand amide Ⅲ regions, the C-C skeletal vibration region, and the S-S and C-S bond vibration regions. The experimental results show that ⅰ) the Raman spectroscopy can reveal the secondary structural transformation from α-helical to β-pleated sheet begin at the early stage of stretching; ⅱ) the stretching mechanism of wool fibers can be divided into two different mechanisms, I.e. The secondary structural transformation and the slippage of the polypeptide chain; and ⅲ) the stretching leads to the increasing of the amount of the disordered conformation and the decreasing of the amount of S-S bonds.     

Effect of Stretching - Setting Treatment on Dyeing Behavior of Wool

Changes of dyeing behavior of wool after stretching -setting treatment are studied. Effects of stretching -setting on wool structure are analyzed. It is concluded that stretching - setting treatment not only reduces wool diameter and increases wool length, but also brings about low-temperature dyeing of wool.     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

PRIMARY APPLICATION OF THE WATER SOLUBLE POLYURETHANE (WPU) TO PROTEIN FABRICS

The primary application of the water soluble polyurethane (WPU) in protein fabrics was investigated. Both WCRA (wet crease recovery angle ) and DCRA ( dry crease recovery angle ) of silk fabrics finished with WPU were increased, and the other properties were only slightly influenced. As a formaldehyde - free silk finishing agent, WPU was proved to have a great future. The felting shrinkage ratio of wool fabrics treated by only WPU was reduced to 12.5% from 36.7%. On the basis of Oxidation/ Resin process, the felting shrinkage ratio of treated wool was 8.7%, and almost reached "Machine washable" level.     

Enzymatic Treatment of Wool

Three proteases were applied to treatments of wool. The shrinkage, dyeing behavior, some physical and mechanical properties of treated wool were studied. Peroxymonosulfate(PMS) and lipase were used to pretreat wool before the treatment of it by protease. The results show that the shrink resistance of wool fabric is not obtained when it is treated only by the protease, but it is remarkably improved when the wool fabric is treated first by PMS or a lipase afterwards by protease. The rate of dyeing is increased when the wool is treated by protease or combination of oxidant/ lipase and protease. Whiteness, luster and softness of treated wool are improved, while the strength and elasticity are reduced.     

低温氧等离子体处理对羊毛织物性能的影响

为了改善羊毛织物的毡缩、润湿等性能,采用低温氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行改性处理.通过单因素实验,综合评价羊毛织物处理前后的性能变化情况,分析了羊毛织物性能变化与等离子体处理时间、功率和压强变化之间的相互关系;利用原子力显微镜表征了处理前后羊毛纤维鳞片结构的变化情况.实验结果表明,利用低温氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行改性处理,可以获得较好的防毡缩效果,并能改善织物的润湿性能.有效控制处理条件,织物的断裂强力和伸长率不但不会减小,反而可以得到一定程度的增强.