PRIMARY APPLICATION OF THE WATER SOLUBLE POLYURETHANE (WPU) TO PROTEIN FABRICS

The primary application of the water soluble polyurethane (WPU) in protein fabrics was investigated. Both WCRA (wet crease recovery angle ) and DCRA ( dry crease recovery angle ) of silk fabrics finished with WPU were increased, and the other properties were only slightly influenced. As a formaldehyde - free silk finishing agent, WPU was proved to have a great future. The felting shrinkage ratio of wool fabrics treated by only WPU was reduced to 12.5% from 36.7%. On the basis of Oxidation/ Resin process, the felting shrinkage ratio of treated wool was 8.7%, and almost reached "Machine washable" level.     

O-季铵化-N-水杨醛壳聚糖席夫碱的合成及抗菌性研究

以缩水甘油三甲基氯化铵（GTMAc）和水杨醛为改性剂,在羟基和氨基上分别引入季铵盐基团和席夫碱基团,合成得到含双抗菌功能基团的水溶性壳聚糖衍生物：O-季铵化-N-水杨醛壳聚糖席夫碱,并通过FTIR谱图、季铵化度的测定对壳聚糖衍生物结构进行表征.对合成条件进行了探讨,得到最佳的反应条件为：n（壳聚糖席夫碱）∶n（GTMAc）=1∶5,温度为70℃,时间为24 h,此时获得O-季铵化-N-水杨醛壳聚糖席夫碱的季铵化度和产率最佳,分别为93.7%和81.8%.将产物应用于棉织物抗菌整理,以5%O-季铵化-N-水杨醛壳聚糖席夫碱整理的织物对大肠杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌的抗菌率分别达99.3%和94.0%以上.但该整理织物的耐洗性较差,经20次皂洗后基本失去抗菌性.     

Wool Surface Modification and Its Adhesion with Nano Finishing Agent

The launderability of wool fabrics treated by nano finishing agent influences directly the functional endurance of the treated wool fabric.In order to investigate the effect of wool fibers surface modification on the functional endurance of nano finishinp wool fibers,in this paper,for the first time wool fibers were chemically modified by using NaClO aqueous and KMnO4 aqueous,and then chemically modified wool fibers and native wool fibers were treated using nano ZnO finishing agent,respectively.The laundera...     

反应性抗菌整理剂2RSDP的合成及其应用性能研究

本文对反应性抗菌整理剂2RSDP 的合成方法进行了优化。按照所确定的合成方法,获得了高收率的产物。同时,对该整理剂的应用性能,包括整理工艺及整理后织物对皮肤的刺激与过敏作用进行了研究。实验表明,在确定的整理工艺条件下,当整理剂浓度为1%(owf)时,固着率达95%;整理后的织物可供人体安全使用。     

Preliminary Study on Anti-Dropping Methods for Short Cashmere Woolen Cloth

The fibre dropping mechanism of short cashmere fabrics is elucidated. Results show that to reduce the fibre dropping, it is necessary to increase the linkage force among the fibers, and the special anti - dropping finishing for the fabrics which have been normally finished, should be carried out. To evaluate the six selected anti - dropping finishing agents, fuzzy judgment method was used, and the agent, with the most effect on anti - dropping, was found out.     

Molecular Weight Distributions of Cotton Cellulose Treated with a Polycarboxylic Acid at Different pH

In last paper, the average molecular weight of a control cotton fabric and cotton fabrics treated with the polycarboxylic acid at different pH were measured. The result doesn‘t support the hypothesis that the pH of the finishing bath can affect the depolymerization of the finished cotton fabric. In order to understand more about it, the molecular weight distributions of the control and finished cotton fabrics were measured and the reason was fund. From the ratio and the molecular weight of the low molecular part one can see that the pH of the finishing bath can affect the depelymerization of the f‘mished cotton fabrics. The phenomenon that the average molecular weights of the cotton fabric crosslinked with BTCA at different pH are almost same is attributed to that the crosslinks are not broken completely when treated with 0.5 M NaOH solution at 50℃ for 144 h.     

反应性阳离子聚氨酯对羊绒针织物起球性能的影响

以自制的反应性阳离子水性聚氨酯对纯羊绒针织物进行抗起毛起球整理,研究整理剂对纯羊绒针织物整理效果及其服用性能的影响。研究结果表明：在整理剂最佳的应用工艺下（整理剂质量浓度50g/L、浴比1：35、整理液pH5.5、40℃下处理20min、100℃烘干）,可显著提高羊绒针织物的抗起毛起球性能,其起毛起球等级从2.0级提高到4.0级,且织物的手感和白度等风格不受整理剂的影响。     

温度和pH值对羊毛织物尺寸稳定性的影响

通过一系列实验分析了温度和pH值对羊毛纤维的膨胀和羊毛织物尺寸变化的影响．在pH2．1的溶液中，羊毛织物的尺寸随温度的升高而下降，变化的幅度取决于织物组织和织物的定型率．在羊毛等电点pH4．8时，纤维的膨胀达到最小值，而织物的尺寸则随着溶液酸性的增加而减小．     

Application of Acid Dyestuffs with Different Molecule Structure in Combined Dyeing and Finishing of Cotton Fabric

Simultaneous dyeing and durable press finishing of cotton fabrics with acid dyes bearing the different molecule structure and durable press finishing agent （DP agent abbr. ） based on modified DMDHEU were investigated by using the pad-dry-cure process. Some factors affecting the process, such as structure of acid dyes, DP agent, catalysts and curing temperature were discussed. The dyed and finished fabrics were evaluated with respect to color strength, fixation, crease recovery angle, breaking strength and fastness properties. The results indicate that structure of acid dyes has a striking effect on the color strength of dyed and finished cotton fabric. The color strength and dry crease recovery angle of dyed and finished cotton fabric increases, whereas breaking strength decreases with increasing concentration of DP agent. It is necessary for ammonium nitrate to serve as catalyst. It is found that relatively satisfactory properties of dyed and finished cotton fabric can be obtained with appropriate adjustment of treating conditions.     

The Effect of TDEA on Dyeability of Both Cotton and Silk

Effects of the non - alcohol finishing agent TDEA on dye-ing properties of cotton and silk fabrics were examined. TDEA improving substantivity and having a fixation ac-tion on cotton fabrics dyeing with reactive dyes and sharp increasing dry and wet crease recovery angles of cotton have been demonstrated. The slightly lower color yields and duller in shade on the TDEA finished silk fabrics dyeing with some acid dyes have been indicated.     

Principles and Chief Technologies in Developing Light-weighted Worsted Fabrics

More and more light-weighted fabrics are being required by the market, especially for the worsted manufacture. In the past, such fabrics are produced mainly through changing the structure of woven goods or by using finer yarns. But these possibilities are very limited. In this paper, new devices are discussed: (1) on the yarn level - to use single yarns instead of conventional doubled ones, to decrease number of fibers in yarn cross sections both during spuming and after finishing; (2) on the fiber level - to use finer fibers in blends with wool and modification of the wool fibers; (3) on the macromolecule level - to stretch the macromolecules in alpha keratin, to get super fine wool fibers.     

起毛织物的CAD技术

毛织物起毛整理后外观会有很大变化，因此，用于毛织物设计的ＣＡＤ系统必需具有模拟起毛织物表面状态的功能。本文阐述起毛织物ＣＡＤ系统模拟起毛的原理和方法，分析了决定织物表面起毛状态的几个因素，提出了独特的模拟方法。介绍了织物起毛状态模拟中起毛．点位置决定、起毛纤维的颜色决定、起毛纤维的形状和长度决定、起毛纤维的方向控制、毛绒密度控制等关键问题的解决办法。用计算机图像模拟方法模拟了生产过程中起毛后整理对毛织物外观产生作用的全过程。     

用近红外光谱定量分析混纺毛织品中羊毛的质量分数

运用近红外漫反射光谱技术定量分析羊毛/染色粘胶混合样中羊毛的质量分数,标样集中近红外预测值与实际值之间的相关系数是0.982;对待测样品检验结果:预测值变异系数CV为4.1％,令人满意。表明该方法有望成为一种快速的、非破坏性的定量分析混纺织物的手段。     

织造和染整加工前后精梳毛纱拉伸性能的关系

为了根据织造前纱线的拉伸性能和织造、后整理工艺预测织物的拉伸性能,研究了织造和染整加工前后精梳毛纱拉伸性能的关系,获得了三方面的结论:(1)经常规后整理加工的各种精梳毛织物中经纱的伸长变形能力没有显著差异,但其纬纱的伸长变形能力与织造和染整工艺有关。(2)坯布染色情况下织造前纱线的伸长变形曲线在伸长率方向扩大一定倍数以后与织物中纱线的伸长变形曲线相当。纱线染色情况下织造前纱线的伸长变形曲线的某一部分与织物中纱线的伸长变形曲线相当。(3)后整理加工中的经向张力和拉幅张力对精梳毛织物中纱线的伸长变形能力的影响特别大。树脂整理有降低织物变形特别是变形回复能力的作用。     

乳液型自交联聚丙烯酸酯涂层剂的研究

本文以红外分析为手段对含不同交联单体的两种乳液型自交联聚丙烯酸酯涂层剂的交联机理进行了研究,发现分别以 N-羟甲基丙烯酰胺和 N-亚甲基丁氧基丙烯酰胺为交联单体的涂层剂的自交联方式是不同的。同时,本文还就不同的交联单体及其用量对涂层剂粘度的影响进行了讨论.由于被整理织物的耐水压随涂层剂粘度的不同而改变,因此经比较选出了较为合适的交联单体及其用量。实验中发现,涂层剂中聚合物的 T_g 随交联单体用量的增加而提高.最后,本文对聚丙烯酸酯涂层剂的有机硅共混改性进行了探讨,经改性涂层剂整理的织物具有预期的拒水和耐水压双重功能。     

Effect Of Construction On Some Mechanical Properties of Non - finished and Finished Cotton Fabrics

The analysis of fabrics of different woven constructions made of the same count of yarn indicates different wrinkle recovery and other mechanical properties before and after wrinkle resistant treatment. For the plain weave fabrics, parameters of the warp threads and weft threads can influence the effect of wrinkle resistance finishing. When the parameters of warp threads are similar as that of the weft threads, the even - structure can be obtained . Therefore, the best wrinkle recovery angle can be obtained. With the increasing of warp threads and weft threads, the strength of non - finished and finished fabrics can be increased. When the warp threads are similar as the weft threads, high strength retain can also be obtained.     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorabilitv of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments,the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment improved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Introduction Manypeopleexperienceapricklesensationwhentheywearsomewoolgarments.Itwaspreviouslythoughtthatthi pricklesensationmayhavebeentheresultofanallergyto wool.However,thestudyofGarnsworthyetalshowedtha theprickleevokedbywoolfabricwasnotderivedfroman allergytowool.Ratherthecauseoffabric evokedpricklewa themechanicalexcitationofskin painreceptorsfromthe coarsefiberendsprotrudingfromthefabricsurface[1].Thei studyalsoshowedthatinsomefabrics,fibersprotrudingfrom thesurface,whichwereabletosu…