Enzymatic Treatment of Wool

Three proteases were applied to treatments of wool. The shrinkage, dyeing behavior, some physical and mechanical properties of treated wool were studied. Peroxymonosulfate(PMS) and lipase were used to pretreat wool before the treatment of it by protease. The results show that the shrink resistance of wool fabric is not obtained when it is treated only by the protease, but it is remarkably improved when the wool fabric is treated first by PMS or a lipase afterwards by protease. The rate of dyeing is increased when the wool is treated by protease or combination of oxidant/ lipase and protease. Whiteness, luster and softness of treated wool are improved, while the strength and elasticity are reduced.     

Plasma Modification of Wool: The Effect of Plasma Gas on the Properties of the Wool Fabric

The wool fabrics were treated with low temperature plasma (LTP) using three different gases, namely (ⅰ) oxygen, (ⅱ) nitrogen and (ⅲ) 25％ hydrogen/75％ nitrogen gas mixture. After LTP treatment, the low stress mechanical properties, surface properties and thermal properties of the fabrics were investigated by kES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System) Instruments composing of KES-FBI for tensile and shear property measurement, KES-FB2 for pure bending measurement, kES-FB3 for compression measurement, KES-FB4 for surface friction and surface roughness measurement, and KES-F7 for thermal property measurement. The first four instruments were used for investigating the charaeterlstlc aspect related to fabrle hand while the last one was mainly for the fabric comfort. The properties of LTP treated fabrics under the effect of different gases were compared with the untreated fabric quantitatively.     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

起毛织物的CAD技术

毛织物起毛整理后外观会有很大变化，因此，用于毛织物设计的ＣＡＤ系统必需具有模拟起毛织物表面状态的功能。本文阐述起毛织物ＣＡＤ系统模拟起毛的原理和方法，分析了决定织物表面起毛状态的几个因素，提出了独特的模拟方法。介绍了织物起毛状态模拟中起毛．点位置决定、起毛纤维的颜色决定、起毛纤维的形状和长度决定、起毛纤维的方向控制、毛绒密度控制等关键问题的解决办法。用计算机图像模拟方法模拟了生产过程中起毛后整理对毛织物外观产生作用的全过程。     

羊毛防毡缩处理工艺的探讨

采用氧化一树脂法对羊毛进行防缩处理，以天然生物材料壳聚糖作为防缩树脂，对比了不同预氧化条件下的防缩效果，选择了最佳的防缩处理条件，对处理后羊毛的毡缩性和强度等指标进行了测定，结果表明，用壳聚糖作为羊毛防缩树脂，必须先进行预氧化才能达到满意的防缩效果，氧化处理采用次氯酸钠和高锰酸钾混合液处理的效果较好，并可降低次氯酸钠的用量。     

PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF A NEW ANTIFELTING RESIN FOR WOOL FABRICS

In this paper,a new resin called Resin M for imparting antifelting properties to wool fabricshas been studied.Resin M may be used by aqueous oxidative/polymer technique.It is provedthat Oxidant A/Resin M treatment can satisfy the machine washable requirement formulated byI.W.S..Resin M is a good agent for antifelting treatment of wool fabrics with proper pretreatment.Oxidant A/Resin M treatment has little influence on dyeing and moisture adsorption properties ofwool fibers.The pilling resistance of the treated fabrics is higher than that of the untreated ones.The strength and the handle of the treated fabrics have little been changed.According to thescanning electron microscope observations,it is recommended that the polymer encapsulation ofindividual fiber also plays an important role in the felting resistance of the treated fabrics though itis well known that the shrink resistance of the treated fabrics is believed to be due to the binding offibers.     

基于等离子体处理的羊毛织物易护理整理

基于等离子体处理的羊毛织物防缩抗皱整理.探求一种新的生产方法,即毛织物经等离子体处理后,其防缩性、抗皱性、防污性都有所提高,再经过整理剂整理,对毛织物损伤小,整理效果明显改善.     

Mathematical Model for Application of Simulated Tikuanyin Tea Residues on Wool Dyeing Process

The central composition experimental design of multiva-riate Response Surface Method was used to formulate mathematical models aiming to predict (1) the optimum dyeing conditions of simulated waste Tikuanyin tea for wool fabric and (2) the optimum extraction conditions of a natural mordant originated from common waste eggshell. The pre - mordanting eggshell was applied to wool fabric before dyeing with simulated waste Tikuanyin tea under the optimum dyeing conditions. After mordanting the wool fabric with extracted natural eggshell solution, the prominent effect of increment in dye uptake and improvement of the properties of light fastness, washing fastness and rubbing fastness were evaluated.     

PRIMARY APPLICATION OF THE WATER SOLUBLE POLYURETHANE (WPU) TO PROTEIN FABRICS

The primary application of the water soluble polyurethane (WPU) in protein fabrics was investigated. Both WCRA (wet crease recovery angle ) and DCRA ( dry crease recovery angle ) of silk fabrics finished with WPU were increased, and the other properties were only slightly influenced. As a formaldehyde - free silk finishing agent, WPU was proved to have a great future. The felting shrinkage ratio of wool fabrics treated by only WPU was reduced to 12.5% from 36.7%. On the basis of Oxidation/ Resin process, the felting shrinkage ratio of treated wool was 8.7%, and almost reached "Machine washable" level.     

天然植物染料黄连在毛织物染色中的应用

用黄连提取液染羊毛织物，通过正交试验确定了直接染色和预媒染染色的最佳工艺条件，并分析了各染色条件对黄连染毛织物的色差值的影响。色牢度测试表明黄连染毛织物的耐摩擦牢度较好，皂洗牢度较差。     

Protease Selection and Technology Optimization in Biofinish of Wool

A process for the shrink - resist treatment of wool by protease with a hydrogen peroxide pretreatment (the Perzym process) has been studied. A protease, selected from several commercial proteases, has been found having higher activity in shrink - resist treatment, and its optimum technological conditions, which confer wool better shrinkproofing and less strength and elongation loss, have been obtained by an orthogonal factorial design approach. The study shows that it is possible for the wool to be conferred excellent machine washability by the Perzym process.     

Enzymatic Treatment for Shrink-proofing of Wool

Introduction Duetothescalestructureandresiliencyproperties, woolhasatendencytoshrinkundertheinfluencesof moisture,detergentsandagitation.Nowadaysthemost commerciallysuccessfulshrink proofingprocedureistheIWS/CSIROchlorine Hercosetttopprocessasa combinationofsubtractiveandadditivemethods[1,2]. However,apartfromyellowingandresultingasynthetichandle,thisprocessproducesabsorbableorganichalogen compounds(AOX)[1,3],whichcauseseverepressureon environmentallegislation[4,5].Forecologicaland econ…     

藏氆氇织物服用性能的测试与评价

为揭示藏氆氇织物独特的服用性能与原理,对结构相近的藏氆氇织物与普通毛织物以及化纤织物的规格、结构参数、舒适性能和耐用性能4方面进行试验测试与比较分析.结果表明藏氆氇织物属于门幅窄小(23～27cm)的全毛斜纹厚重型织物,其具有经密小、纬密大,经纱粗、纬纱细,经向紧度小、纬向紧度大、总紧度大于100%的结构特征,且具有保暖、防风、防潮、沾水少和坚牢耐磨的独特服用性能,从而表明其对于青藏高原的自然环境和当地的生产生活具有良好的适用性.     

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Introduction Manypeopleexperienceapricklesensationwhentheywearsomewoolgarments.Itwaspreviouslythoughtthatthi pricklesensationmayhavebeentheresultofanallergyto wool.However,thestudyofGarnsworthyetalshowedtha theprickleevokedbywoolfabricwasnotderivedfroman allergytowool.Ratherthecauseoffabric evokedpricklewa themechanicalexcitationofskin painreceptorsfromthe coarsefiberendsprotrudingfromthefabricsurface[1].Thei studyalsoshowedthatinsomefabrics,fibersprotrudingfrom thesurface,whichwereabletosu…     

羊毛纬平针织物抗起毛起球整理与性能

选用一种低温环保型水性丙烯酸酯共聚乳液,对羊毛纬平针织物进行了抗起毛起球的整理,研究了整理剂质量浓度、浴比、时间、温度4个因子对羊毛纬平针织物整理效果的影响.根据正交实验得出较优工艺参数为:整理剂质量浓度30g/L、浴比1:35、温度50℃、时间30min.经该工艺整理后可提高羊毛纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能和织物强力.     

低温氧等离子体处理对羊毛织物性能的影响

为了改善羊毛织物的毡缩、润湿等性能,采用低温氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行改性处理.通过单因素实验,综合评价羊毛织物处理前后的性能变化情况,分析了羊毛织物性能变化与等离子体处理时间、功率和压强变化之间的相互关系;利用原子力显微镜表征了处理前后羊毛纤维鳞片结构的变化情况.实验结果表明,利用低温氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行改性处理,可以获得较好的防毡缩效果,并能改善织物的润湿性能.有效控制处理条件,织物的断裂强力和伸长率不但不会减小,反而可以得到一定程度的增强.     

低温等离子体处理对羊毛织物性能的影响

采用空气低温等离子体对羊毛表面进行改性处理,探讨了等离子体处理对羊毛织物抗毡缩性、强力、白度、润湿性、染色性能等的影响.正交试验结果表明:等离子体处理羊毛织物的实验室最佳工艺为时间3min、压强50Pa、功率150W.经空气低温等离子体处理,羊毛织物的毡缩率和白度降低,而润湿性、强力和弱酸性普拉红B染色K/S值提高.单独经过空气等离子体处理的羊毛织物达不到"机可洗"的要求.     

Study on Misplating Problems of Composed of Wool and Lycra Plated Knitted Fabrics

By a great deal of experiments,the misplating problemsof plated knitted fabrics composed of wool and Lycra arediscussed and analyzed.The factors affecting the mis-plating problems on manually operated flat knitting ma-chine include the construction and adjustment of a plat-ing feeder,wool yarn count,feeding tension,takedowntension and the ground fabric structures.Some usefulresults can be derived from these works.     

Study on the Feltproof of Wool/Cocoon Stripping Blending Fabric

A new method is presented to prevent the wool fabric from shrinking effectively by using cocoon stripping blended with wool fiber. The sericin of cocoon stripping is used as resin to bond the wool fiber together after heat setting. The factors affecting the effect of shrinkproofing is heat setting temperature, wool/cocoon stripping blending ratio, cover factor, regain of fabric. Temperature of heat setting and the blending ratio of cocoon stripping are the two key factors. This method does not pollute the environment, and almost has no damage on wool fiber.