蒸呢定型对精纺毛织物尺寸稳定性的影响

精纺毛织物的尺寸稳定性不仅影响到服装加工,而且关系到成衣形状的稳定性。作者就普通蒸呢和罐蒸与尺寸稳定性(松弛收缩、吸湿膨胀)和织物风格的关系进行研究,对织物的吸湿膨胀机理作了探讨。实验结果表明:蒸前织物的剩余应力愈大,蒸后松弛收缩率愈大,KES测试中的EMT指标愈小;经普蒸织物的吸湿膨胀率明显小于罐蒸织物的吸湿膨胀率,而纤维的吸湿膨胀率却相反,经普蒸后织物单元截面内纱线充满度亦较小;吸湿膨胀率与织物内摩擦损耗成线性关系等。可以认为,毛织物整理以小张力上机加工为宜,高档毛织物采用普蒸定型为佳;织物组织结构是影响织物吸湿膨胀的主要因素。     

乌拉圭羊毛理化性能及其可纺性的研究

着重研究乌拉圭细羊毛和半细羊毛在化学组成、形态结构、纺纱工艺性能和染色性能等方面的特点，并与相当细度的美利奴羊毛有关性能相对比．分析了ＭＩＣ２２．６、ＭＩＣ２６．８、ＭＩＣ２８．８三种毛条的纤维长度和细度分布特性，制定出可纺纱支的纱线规格和相应的加工工艺路线．结果表明，乌拉圭羊毛表面鳞片密度低并紧贴毛干，使羊毛明亮光泽；乌拉圭羊毛强力大，初始模量高，卷曲弹性率较低，表面光滑，摩擦系数小；乌拉圭羊毛含有较少的自由氨基，上染比较缓慢．根据其特性，作者认为乌拉圭羊毛加工过程中需特别注意和毛油剂种类的选择，同时宜采用较低的单纱和股线捻系数，设计色泽鲜艳、要求保形性能好的产品．     

空间吸声体吸声性能的研究

本文研究并实验了目前常用的四种装饰材料对吸声体吸声性能的影响，在同等表面积、等量相同的吸声材料、空腔体积依次增大、侧面边数增多的条件下，不同形状吸声体的吸声特性，以及吸声体底面面积，空腔体积和吸声系数的关系；研究并实验了声源是否固定，传声器带不带防风罩对测试结果的影响。     

整经经档的成因及预防

毛织品的整经经档疵点呈一上升趋势，主要集中在缎纹织物上。文章简要分析了整经机性能与整经经档形成的关系，指出现代整经技术进步对克服经档疵点的贡献。同时，根据多年生产经验，重点从提高毛纱质量、根据整经机性能针对不同纱线质量优化整经工艺和操作诸方面提出了预防整经经档的措施。     

异色圈圈纱/羊毛股线交织产品的设计与开发

从原料选配、圈圈纱的生产过程、色彩的搭配、产品工艺设计等方面说明产品的设计要点。通过纺制圈圈纱与羊毛股线交织,可以降低产品的成本,同时织物手感蓬松、立体感强,具有保暖、吸湿快干等功能;同时多原料多色彩组合的设计符合现代人追求休闲自然的时代潮流和多样化的个性需求,对开发粗纺面料具有一定的参考价值。     

PRIMARY APPLICATION OF THE WATER SOLUBLE POLYURETHANE (WPU) TO PROTEIN FABRICS

The primary application of the water soluble polyurethane (WPU) in protein fabrics was investigated. Both WCRA (wet crease recovery angle ) and DCRA ( dry crease recovery angle ) of silk fabrics finished with WPU were increased, and the other properties were only slightly influenced. As a formaldehyde - free silk finishing agent, WPU was proved to have a great future. The felting shrinkage ratio of wool fabrics treated by only WPU was reduced to 12.5% from 36.7%. On the basis of Oxidation/ Resin process, the felting shrinkage ratio of treated wool was 8.7%, and almost reached "Machine washable" level.     

纤维弱节的力学特征与判定

纤维弱节是造成纤维力学性能退化和纤维品质下降的主要原因。这里采用单纤维拉伸和形态轮廓观察结合的方法，对羊电纤维弱节的力学行为进行表征。提出了用纤维细节处的平均断裂应力σ^-和断裂应变ε^-，作为纤维弱节的判断的依据。并对羊电的细节断裂、弱节断裂，非弱节(正常)断裂的概率作了实到和理论计算，其结果分别为印％、奶％和印％。这征明作者采用的单纤维性能分析仪(SIFAN)法和显微图像加单纤维强力仪(OM XQ)法的实用性与有效性。     

SN型活性染料在羊毛纤维上匀染性研究

对SN型活性染料在羊毛织物上的匀染性能进行了探讨，提出可在测色仪上通过测量多点色差来评价染色织物的匀染性，并研究了不同匀染剂对其匀染性的影响。实验结果表明：SN型活性染料染羊毛织物，匀染剂GES对减缓上色速率、提高匀染性有良好的效果，而吸色率、表面深度等染色性能未见明显变化。     

Analytical Algorithms for the Blend Ratios by Fibre-bundle Tensile Curves Part Ⅲ:The Definition Method and the Relationships between the Blend Ratio and Tensile Parameters Calculated from Different Ways

The algorithms of the strength, work, modulus and percentage methods have been introduced and discussed in Part Ⅰ and Part Ⅱ of the series papers. As the following, the percentage-function calculation and the frequency-function calculation of the definition method are defined and developed in detail. Meanwhile, the procedures to find the tensile parameters are analysed experimentally and involve "ED" being the average values of the corresponding tensile parameters of each bundle tensile curve measured; "EC" being the tensile parameters obtained from the averaged experimental tensile curve; and "TC" being the parameters of the theoretical tensile curve according to the corresponding nominal blend ratio. The theoretical and experimental results indicate that the blend ratio estimated by the definition method from wool/polyester blended fibre bundles has a high correlation with the actual blend ratio though the variables to be known in this method are the most of all the methods and there exist the difficulty to solve fibre bundle tensile behaviour without fibre broken in accuracy and that there are high correlations between the EC and TC data and the tensile parameters should be calculated using the EC method rather than the ED method with the exception of the bundle initial modulus. The relationships between blend ratios and the tensile properties of blended fibre bundles can be used to select the optimum blend ratio of blended tops or yarns.     

Enzymatic Treatment for Shrink-proofing of Wool

Introduction Duetothescalestructureandresiliencyproperties, woolhasatendencytoshrinkundertheinfluencesof moisture,detergentsandagitation.Nowadaysthemost commerciallysuccessfulshrink proofingprocedureistheIWS/CSIROchlorine Hercosetttopprocessasa combinationofsubtractiveandadditivemethods[1,2]. However,apartfromyellowingandresultingasynthetichandle,thisprocessproducesabsorbableorganichalogen compounds(AOX)[1,3],whichcauseseverepressureon environmentallegislation[4,5].Forecologicaland econ…