针织运动上衣结构和面料变化对服装压力的影响

采用4种针织面料分别制作基本款针织运动上衣,测量穿着对象在穿着这些服装做典型瑜伽动作时的服装压力,根据人体工程学原理和测得的服装压力值对服装结构进行改良.利用配对样本t检验的方法分析改良前后服装压力值的变化情况,进而对影响针织运动上衣压力的因素进行分析.     

针织服装结构设计方法研究

由针织面料弹性变化及方向性提出建立人体静态净化样板。通过对日本文化原型胸省、肩省处理和松度调整，得到的图形称为“针织服装原型”。对照人体静态净化尺寸作了合理性分析，提出了运用针织服装原型进行结构设计的方法。     

针织服装原型与结构设计特点研究

针织面料独特的服用性能使其与机织面料服装在样板设计上有很大的差别,本文通过立体裁剪的方法研究了针织面料贴体原型,并在此基础上对针织服装结构设计特点进行了讨论。     

针织调整型束裤拉伸弹性与服装压关系

选择8种氨纶高弹经编针织面料,按调整型束裤标准款式以5档号型制作调整型束裤40条,进行调整型束裤穿着服装压试验及面料的拉伸弹性试验.经过分析得出与臀腹部特征部位服装压相关关系显著的面料弹性指标,包括单次及5次拉伸弹性回复率、横向断裂强力、横向断裂功等,及其与服装压的定量关系.讨论了束裤臀腹部服装压与宽裕率、面料拉伸力的相关关系,得出穿着舒适美体的服装压对应面料拉伸伸长率及拉伸力值,对调整型束裤设计生产中的面料拉伸弹性选择有一定的参考意义.     

谈针织服装的制作要点

近几年来，针织服装以它独特的织物风格特性在流行服饰中的比例不断上升，新颖、美观的针织服装已成为年轻女性的追逐对象。现代针织惭料已经进入多功能化和高档化的发展阶段。针对针织面料的特点，针织服装生产时应充分考虑其面料特点进行制板，并且采用合适的缝制方法。     

热环境中针织面料穿着舒适性影响因素的研究

从人体穿着舒适的要求出发,对热环境中针织面料的穿着舒适性进行了研究,找出影响针织面料舒适性的某些织物结构参数,为功能性织物设计、生产及服装选料提供一定的参考.     

针织女装上衣原型研究

为针织女装上衣原型结构设计提供一种新的方法,丰富、完善针织服装设计理论.采用立体裁剪方法,依据针织服装上衣结构特点及其变化规律,借鉴日本文化式女装原型,建立了针织女装上衣原型.该原型外部形态及结构特征与日本文化式原型有相似之处,但衣片在胸围放松量,省道设计以及各部位尺寸等方面表现出明显的差异.     

针织服装设计及裤装规格的应用分析

休闲生活的主张作为21世纪的时尚潮流,使针织服装产品在市场上大行其道。由于面料纽织的特点,针织服装的设计与梭织服装有较大的区别,在轮廓造型、衣片结构、号型系列及缝迹线的设计等方面都有着特殊的要求。本文从针织类服装面料的特点分析如手,较为系统地分析了针织服装造型设计、针织服装结构设计、针织服装工艺设计以及针织服装规格设计等,通过以男女裤装为例初步探讨号型系列的应用,希望能对企业实际设计人员具有借鉴意义。     

浅谈针织服装外衣化设计

随着经济的发展和人民生活水平的提高,针织服装由于其本身的性能优越性,越来越受到消费者的欢迎,针织服装逐步走向外衣化.本文从款式、色彩、面料几个方面对针织服装外衣化的设计进行了分析和研究,以利于开发更多的服装新品种.     

女工艺术在现代针织服装中的运用

分析女工技艺的审美特征和针织服装的特性。探讨女工在针织服装设计中的表现手法,根据针织服装的特点,对女工技艺在其款式造型、面料细节、图案创新等方面的设计进行分析,分别列出不同设计方法的创新特点,以强化针织服装的时尚化、个性化设计,并举出实例加以说明。     

经编双轴向织物用作涂层基布的性能优势

分别对经编双轴向织物和机织物增强材料的涂层产品进行拉伸和撕裂试验，研究了经编双轴向织物用作涂层基布时的一些性能优势：优异的拉伸性能和抗撕裂性能；较高的纱线强力利用率等等。     

Principle and Method for Structural Design of Digital Woven Fabric

IntroductionThe structural design of woven fabric is realized byinterlacement .In woven fabric ,the warp and weft threadsinterweave with each other . This rule of interlacement iscalled weave[1]. The fabric s appearance and mechanicalproperty change along with the fabric construction ofweaves . Any weave is composed by warp and weftinterlacing points alternately . The number of threadsrequired whenever the arrangement of the warp and weftinterlacing points repeats for one ti me is called a we…     

玻璃纤维丙纶混并纱纬编针织复合材料拉伸性能的研究

在手摇横机上编织了玻璃纤维丙纶平针织物和罗纹织物预制件，将预制件通过热压成型的方法制得复合材料，并且在材料试验机上测试了复合材料的拉伸性能。结果表明平针和罗纹织物复合材料的拉伸性能存在着差异，同一种复合材料在纵横向的拉伸性能也存在着不同。分析了影响拉伸强度和弹性模量的影响因素，为纬编针织物复合材料的设计和生产提供了依据。     

A Study of Fine Denier Propylene Knitted Fabrics'''' Wet Comfort-The Wet Comfort Studied by Subjective Wear Trial and Synthetic Dis-cussion

This paper is mainly concerned with the wet comfort of the fine denier propylene knitted garment. The subjec-tive sensation to these propylene garments is recorded in wear trial and analyzed. The relations among the normal objective test, the manikin test and the subjective wear test are discussed. The wicking height, the moisture re-sistance, the water holding ability, the moisture releas-ing and drying ability are recommended as the normal objective ways to evaluate fabric's wet comfort. At last, some principles on designing this type of fabrics are sug-gested .     

Physical Characteristics of Knitted Polyester Vascular Prostheses： Can the Wall Be Considered as a Scaffold for Tissue Regeneration？

Recent developments in endovascular surgery (EVAR) have opened new avenues to successfully treat aneurysms with percutaneous deployment of stent-grafts.Manufacturers have preferred to use woven fabrics or micro-porous tubes which are supported by metallic frames or stents.Woven fabrics are much thinner than knits and this permits the use of a smaller delivery catheter.However,since woven constructions are stiffer and have little porosity,the tissue ingrowth is poor or absent.On the other hand,knitted constructions can be considered as a scaffold for tissue ingrowth,and hence they represent an attractive alternative because of their open structure and better conformability in the case of balloon deployment.The present study was undertaken to analyze the properties of two knitted and crimped polyester arterial prototype prostheses,one with and the other without a gelatin coating as sealant.Two commercial controls were also included in the study,namely the uncoated knitted polyester vascular prosthesis VP1200K,and its sealed version,the gelatin coated polyester knitted Gelsoft device,manufactured by Vascutek Ltd.,Scotland,UK.In vitro testing consisted of analyzing the geometry and morphology of the yarn and fabric structures,and measuring the physical and mechanical properties of the grafts,including the water permeability,the longitudinal and radial compliance,and the suture retention strength.In order to compare the different properties of the four samples,tests were also performed on the gelatin coated or sealed devices before and after gelatin removal.The results provided a useful comparison between the prototypes and the commercial control devices.The latter used ten times the amount of gelatin which had been applied as a coating in order to achieve the same low level of impermeability to water.The different amounts of gelatin also explained the different mechanical performance,such as compliance,for these prototype and control prostheses.     

细旦丙纶短纤织物服用舒适性分析

为探讨细旦丙纶短纤织物的服用舒适性,根据测试得出的细旦丙纶短纤织物、对比织物棉及细旦丙纶长丝等3类样本的各项服用性能指标数据,运用聚类分析及对应分析的数理统计方法,分析了此3类织物的优缺点,得出了细旦丙纶短纤织物独特的服用舒适性能;并优化出了该织物具有最佳服用舒适性的组织结构模型.     

SOME END-USES OF PURE RAMIE NOIL ROTOR YARNS

In the previous studies, the optimum technological combination has been obtained for producing coarse pure ramie noil yarns on rotor spinning system currently. Because of no yarn properties standard available at present for suchlike yarns, it is considered necessary to analyse the acceptability of coarse pure ramie noil rotor-spun yarns in terms of yarn properties before their products being developed. By the aid of a hypothetical concept "pure ramie noil ring-spun yarn", this paper draws the conclusion that the coarse pure ramie noil rotor-spun yarns are condsidered acceptable to a great extent; furthermore, it introduces 5 kinds of woven fabrics and 3 kinds of knitted fabrics successfully designed and developed from those yarns.     

Study of Un-added Allowance of Draping-PIanar Designing Garment Prototype for Young Ladies

As for the theory and method in garment structural design according to human figures, a principle for garment design, i. e. body-fitting without added allowance, and a combination of draping and planar design (DPD hereunder) for young ladies has been put forward, and, also, a DPD garment prototype for them has been established. And the applied formulae for extensively-practicing operation have been set up, which proves to be, with actual samples, a systematic and practical garment structural designing theory and approach.     

无放松量立体裁剪-平面设计青年女子服装原型研究

根据服装人体科学中有关服装结构设计理论和方法，提出了与众不同的无放松量、完全贴体并采用立体裁剪和平面设计相结合的青年女子服装原型设计原理。建立了无放松量立体裁剪—平面设计青年女子服装原型。设定了便于广泛实际操作使用的应用公式，并用实际的例子来验证立体裁剪—平面设计是一种行之有效的服装结构设计理论和方法。