异面效应织物组织设计方法

本文根据省综设计呢地组织和双层组织的构作原理,分析解剖了 A 面为平纹组织,B 面为呢地组织的双层结构,提出了这种结构的一般的设计方法。文章又对设计方法进行了展开,讨论了 A 面改为斜纹或其他基础组织,B 面仍为呢地组织的设计方法,以及 A 面组织改变之后会给织物带来的影响。又讨论了正反面若采用不同的纱线性质、不同的纱线条份、不同的纱线色彩、上下层经纬纱不同的排列比等,来配以异面效应的组织,会给织物的功能、机理、色彩等带来影响。

DESIGN METHOD OF FABRIC WEAVE WITH DIFFERENT FACE EFFECT

The double structure,with one face of plain weave and the other of the four season suit-ing crepe weave,is analysed according to the principles of the harness-sparing design methodof crepe weave as well as structure of double weave.A general method designing textiles withthis kind of texture is suggested in this paper.A more extensive discussion about how tochange one face into twill weave or other basic weaves with the other face unchanged is men-tioned.Moreover,the influences of various weaves,yarns,warp/weft arrangement ratios inaddition to weaves with different face effect on the fabric function,mechanism,color,etc.arealso considered.