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传阎立本《步辇图》与隋唐高腰腌乳女装
引用本文:包铭新.传阎立本《步辇图》与隋唐高腰腌乳女装[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2001,27(5):21-25.
作者姓名:包铭新
作者单位:东华大学艺术设计学院,上海,200051
摘    要:传阎立本《步辇图》是一幅写实风格的艺术作品,记录了隋唐女服的一种典型--高腰掩乳裙装。此图对中国服饰史研究的重要性,尚未被诸多普经引用此图的学者所充分认识,此图中几个穿着组合上的要点,则被他们所忽视。高腰腌乳裙装是隋唐时期非常重要的一种流行样式,其流行期要比人们相信的要长得多,并具有一个发展变化的过程,由纤长平直逐渐转化为宽博浑圆,这种造型上的变化,反映了女性理想形象的变化--由质朴无华变为雍容华贵。

关 键 词:女装  腰线  隋唐  阎立本  《步辇图》  服饰特征  中国  服饰史
修稿时间:2001年5月16日

High Waistline-over-bust in Sui & Tang Dynasties Reflected in Yan Li-ben's Classic the Imperial Carriage
Bao Mingxin.High Waistline-over-bust in Sui & Tang Dynasties Reflected in Yan Li-ben''''s Classic the Imperial Carriage[J].Journal of Donghua University,2001,27(5):21-25.
Authors:Bao Mingxin
Abstract:The Imperial Carriage painted by Yan Li-ben is a classic of realistic style. It recorded typical mode of women's wear during Sui & Tang Dynasty--the high waistline-over-bust dress. The significance of this picture to the history study of ancient Chinese Costume has not been fully recognized by many scholars, including those who had cited this picture in their researches. Some points about the way that women dressed in their time show in that picture were neglected. The high waistline-over-bust had been very popular during Sui & Tang. The trend had gone much longer than people believed had and there was a process of changing from slim and straight to full with round shape. The change of silhouette reflected the development of female's ideal image, from simple to sophisticated.
Keywords:women's wear  waistline  Sui  Tang  Yan Li-ben  the Imperial Carriage  
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