破波区内波高衰减及其特性

本文从流体力学的基本方程出发,利用破波现象和明渠水跃现象的相似性,推求了破波的能量损失和波高在破波区的衰减规律;应用椭圆余弦波理论的数值计算方法,探讨了破波区内击岸波的各种特性,包括波能、相对波峰高度、辐射应力、波浪破碎前后的增水和减水及它们在整个破波区内的分布规律.按文中方法求得的计算值与实验结果相符.

Study on Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarities between waves and hydraulic jumps , the expressions for estimating wave decay and energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equation of fluid mechanics . Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory , the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone , including the relative crest wave height , wave energy, and radiation stress , are discussed . The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agrement with the experimental data gained by other researchers . The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport in beaches with a gentle slop , especially in muddy beaches.