| 平缓岸滩上规则波的破碎条件 |
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| 引用本文： | 李玉成 崔丽芳. 平缓岸滩上规则波的破碎条件[J]. 大连理工大学学报, 1999, 39(2): 302-308 |
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| 作者姓名： | 李玉成 崔丽芳 |
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| 作者单位： | 大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室!辽宁大连，116024，大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室!辽宁大连，116024，大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室!辽宁大连，116024，大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室!辽宁大连，116024 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家自然科学基金!49876026，交通部规范发展研究基金 |
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| 摘 要： | Ｎｅｌｓｏｎ等指出，在平缓岸滩上波浪的破碎指标－相对波离（Ｈ／ｄ）ｂ－将较岸坡ｉ〉１／１００时为小，即（Ｈ／ｄ）ｂ可小于０．６。
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| 关 键 词： | 波浪 岸坡 破碎 规则波 浅水波浪 |
Breaking criteria of regular waves on gentle slope |
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| LI Yu-cheng, CUI Li-fang, YU Yang, TENG Bin. Breaking criteria of regular waves on gentle slope[J]. Journal of Dalian University of Technology, 1999, 39(2): 302-308 |
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| Authors: | LI Yu-cheng CUI Li-fang YU Yang TENG Bin |
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| Abstract: | It was mentioned by Nelson that the wave breaking criteria (H/d)b for gentle slope(i < 1/100), in which H is the wave height and d is the water depth at breaking point, issmaller than that on beach slope of i >1/100, i. e. the value of (H/d)b on gentle slope may beless than 0. 6. Goda indicated that the wave breaking criteria given by himself is a result based ontheoretical study, so it should be also correct and can be used for gentle beach, i. e. the value of(H/d)b on gentle slope may be still larger than 0. 7. By using high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed here and explained why there is a big variance between different studies.Moreover, the bottom energy loss during wave propagation is considered and the critical slope ofappearance of non wave breaking phenomena is also analyzed. |
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| Keywords: | wave slope breaking |
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