| 台风影响下海滩内碎波带的波动特征 |
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| 引用本文： | 陈子遷.台风影响下海滩内碎波带的波动特征[J].中山大学学报(自然科学版),1999,38(2):90-94. |
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| 作者姓名： | 陈子遷 |
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| 作者单位： | 中山大学河口海岸研究所 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家自然科学基金,广东省自然科学基金 |
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| 摘 要： | 根据９７１３号台风影响期间对粤东海岸一海滩内碎波带２个测波点同步测量的波浪资料，分析了内碎波带的波功率谱、交叉谱和二阶相干谱，讨论了海滩反射性、碎波要素、组成波之间非线性相互作用与长重力波的形成等与地形动力有关的海滩—碎波带波动特征
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| 关 键 词： | 反射性海滩 内碎波带 波功率谱 二阶谱估计 长重力波 |
Characteristics of Wave Dynamics of Inner Surf Zone in a Beach under Typhoon Influence |
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| CHEN Zi,shen.Characteristics of Wave Dynamics of Inner Surf Zone in a Beach under Typhoon Influence[J].Acta Scientiarum Naturalium Universitatis Sunyatseni,1999,38(2):90-94. |
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| Authors: | CHEN Zi shen |
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| Institution: | CHEN Zi shen |
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| Abstract: | The wave power spectra, cross spectra and bispectra of surf zone under high wave condition are analysed based on the synchroneously collected wave data of two stations in the surf zone of the eastern Guangdong coast during typhoon 9713. The beach reflectivity, breaking waves types, wave wave nonlinear interactions and the infragravity waves related to the morphodynamics of the beach surfzone are discussed. |
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| Keywords: | reflective beach inner surf zone wave power spectra bispectral estimation infra gravity waves |
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