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南通蓝印花布印染技艺起源和发展研究
引用本文:李斌,李强,杨小明,李建强. 南通蓝印花布印染技艺起源和发展研究[J]. 武汉科技学院学报, 2013, 26(2): 17-22
作者姓名:李斌  李强  杨小明  李建强
作者单位:1. 东华大学纺织学院,上海,201620
2. 武汉纺织大学纺织科学与工程学院,湖北武汉,430200
基金项目:东华大学校文科预研究项目
摘    要:南通蓝印花布是采用传统的镂空版刮浆防染的蓝印花布,它以纹样清新、蓝白分明、朴实美观等特点,深受人民的喜爱。本文着重对南通蓝印花布印染技艺的起源和发展及其原因进行分析,认为南通蓝印花布直接源于宋代嘉定和安亭的“药斑布”,间接地继承了夹缬和蜡缬的印染技艺,从纹样设计方面又吸收了剪纸的艺术风格。另外,南通蓝印花布印染技艺的发展与南通独特的地理环境、染料的种植、棉纺织业的发展都有着密切的关系。

关 键 词:南通  蓝印花布  印染

Study on the Origins and Development of Blue Calico Printing and Dyeing Techniques in Nantong
LI Bin , LI Qiang , YANG Xiao-ming , Li Jian-qiang. Study on the Origins and Development of Blue Calico Printing and Dyeing Techniques in Nantong[J]. Journal of Wuhan Institute of Science and Technology, 2013, 26(2): 17-22
Authors:LI Bin    LI Qiang    YANG Xiao-ming    Li Jian-qiang
Affiliation:1.College of Textile,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;2.College of Textiles,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan Hubei 430200,China)
Abstract:The blue calico is a traditional hollow resist dyeing calico in Nantong. For it's fresh pattern, blue and white evidently, simplicity and prettiness, the blue calico of Nantong is liked broadly. This paper carries on a thorough analysis of the origins and development of the blue calico in Nantong. We find that the printing and dyeing techniques of blue calico in Nantong originated directly from the printing and dyeing techniques of Jiading and Anting, and indirect inherited the printing and dyeing techniques of batik and board painting. In addition, there is a close relation between the development of the printing and techniques of the blue calico and the unique geographical environment, the cultivation of vegetable indigo, and with the development of cotton textile industry in Nantong.
Keywords:Nantong  the Blue Calico  Printing and Dyeing
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