Plasma Modification of Wool: The Effect of Plasma Gas on the Properties of the Wool Fabric

The wool fabrics were treated with low temperature plasma (LTP) using three different gases, namely (ⅰ) oxygen, (ⅱ) nitrogen and (ⅲ) 25％ hydrogen/75％ nitrogen gas mixture. After LTP treatment, the low stress mechanical properties, surface properties and thermal properties of the fabrics were investigated by kES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System) Instruments composing of KES-FBI for tensile and shear property measurement, KES-FB2 for pure bending measurement, kES-FB3 for compression measurement, KES-FB4 for surface friction and surface roughness measurement, and KES-F7 for thermal property measurement. The first four instruments were used for investigating the charaeterlstlc aspect related to fabrle hand while the last one was mainly for the fabric comfort. The properties of LTP treated fabrics under the effect of different gases were compared with the untreated fabric quantitatively.     

Comparison of the Fabric Mechanical Properties Measured by the KES-F and FAST Systems

In order to clarify the connections and differences be.tween KES- F and FAST, fifteen polyester- based fab-rics were selected and the experiments were strictly mea-sured. The test results between the two systems in termsof mechanical properties were compared, and highly sig-nificant correlation between two systems were obtaineddespite some considerable differences in the measurementprinciples of KES - F and FAST systems.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorabilitv of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments,the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment improved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Study and Application of Objective Evaluation Model on Fabric Style

Based on 31 fabric property parameters tested by FAST test system and other test instruments, the principal factors of fabric style are obtained through the principal factor analysis method and computer program. According to the correlation between each parameter and principal factor,the selected positive or negative coefficient, the objective evaluation model of fabric style bas been established based on the percentage of variance. And wool fabrics have been taken for example to show how to use the objective evaluation model for fabric design.     

Investigation in Longitudinal Compression of Wool Based Suiting Fabrics

This paper describes an investigation in the fabric longi-tudinal compressibility of thirty-one suiting and trouse-ring materials using a newly developed device attached to the advanced Instron extensometer Model4466.The at-tachment was designed mainly to ensure a correct align-meat of fabric plane at the start of compression.Usingthe newly developed testing method,fabric longitudinalcompression curve was obtained and the results of longi-tudinal compressibility measured by two different com-pression load ranges(from 0 to 0.5 N/m width and 0 to1 N/m width)were examined.In addition,their rela-tionships with the fabric low-stress mechanical proper-ties measured by the KES-F system were investigatedusing statistical analysis.The results clearly indicatedthat significant differences existed when substituting fab-ric longitudinal compressibility with fabric extensibilitymeasured using the KES-F system under a low-load.Significant infiuence of yarn rotational movement in fab-ric on the longitudinal compressibi     

国内外羊毛西装面料加工性能的比较

选择35种国内外羊毛西装面料,利用FAST仪对其加工性能进行测试,运用主成分分析方法对其差距与缝纫质量进行比较.结果表明,国内外毛西装面料的主要差异是可成型性,其他依次为湿膨胀性、厚重性、松驰回缩性等.这些差距表明国外毛西装面料加工时制作难度小,尺寸稳定性好,缝纫缩皱较轻,而国内面料制作难度大,缝纫缩皱严重.     

精纺面料的弹性整理和织物性能

探讨全毛精纺面料的弹性整理及整理后织物的物理机械性能．通过适当调整面料设计规格并在后整理工序中采用化学弹性整理，赋予织物经向或纬向弹力，改善了精纺面料的风格及服用性能．同时采用Siro-FAST仪测试了这种弹性面料的性能．试验结果表明：经弹性整理的面料，其面料的弹性指标可以达到天然弹性织物的技术性能指标．FAST仪测试表明：弹性面料具有较好的成形性，不会造成服装加工中线缝起皱和熨烫困难；但面料在弹性方向上的延伸性指标过高、湿膨胀率大，以及弯曲刚度和剪切刚度偏小，给剪裁和缝纫加工造成一定困难．     

Structures and Properties of Composite Yarns of Filaments and Wool Staple Fibers

More and more composite yarns of filament and wool staple fiber have been applied to develop the new type of fabrics. However, the great difference in yarn structures between the composite yarns and conventional staple yarns does affect the properties of yarns and fabrics. In this paper, it has been studied that the differences of the composite yarn properties of tensile, bending rigidity, torsional rigidity, the hairiness and irregularity etc.     

Study on Bending of Woven Fabrics Using Linear Viscoelasticity Theory

The bending behavior of woven fabrics under low curva-ture conditions has been analyzed by linear viscoelastictheory.The fabric is assumed to behave viscoelasticallyand to be subjected to frictional restraints in bending de-formation.The frictional restraint is considered to beproportional to the curvature and can be described by africtional moment.A model has been constructed by astandard three-element solid model and a paralleledfrictional sliding element.The equations of the model fora cyclic curvature variation are derived.A set of param-eters of the equations for each fabric has been obtainedexperimentally.Predictions of the bending rigidity andhysteresis for wool,cashmere,wool/polyester blended,polyester and cotton fabrics are made,displaying verygood agreement with the experimental observations.     

织物手感客观评定方法的研究

设计了一套操作简单、经济、可靠的织物风格测试装置.该装置通过测量从一个圆柱形孔中抽取织物所需的抽取力来客观评定织物的手感,测得的抽取力与FAST仪的测试结果存在显著的相关性,能综合反映织物的单位重量、表观厚度、弯曲刚度、剪切刚度等物理性能.使用该装置能客观评定织物的厚重或轻盈、蓬松或坚实、柔软或刚硬等感观手感性能.     

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Introduction Manypeopleexperienceapricklesensationwhentheywearsomewoolgarments.Itwaspreviouslythoughtthatthi pricklesensationmayhavebeentheresultofanallergyto wool.However,thestudyofGarnsworthyetalshowedtha theprickleevokedbywoolfabricwasnotderivedfroman allergytowool.Ratherthecauseoffabric evokedpricklewa themechanicalexcitationofskin painreceptorsfromthe coarsefiberendsprotrudingfromthefabricsurface[1].Thei studyalsoshowedthatinsomefabrics,fibersprotrudingfrom thesurface,whichwereabletosu…     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

起毛织物的CAD技术

毛织物起毛整理后外观会有很大变化，因此，用于毛织物设计的ＣＡＤ系统必需具有模拟起毛织物表面状态的功能。本文阐述起毛织物ＣＡＤ系统模拟起毛的原理和方法，分析了决定织物表面起毛状态的几个因素，提出了独特的模拟方法。介绍了织物起毛状态模拟中起毛．点位置决定、起毛纤维的颜色决定、起毛纤维的形状和长度决定、起毛纤维的方向控制、毛绒密度控制等关键问题的解决办法。用计算机图像模拟方法模拟了生产过程中起毛后整理对毛织物外观产生作用的全过程。     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

THE EFFECT OF, ABRASION ON LOW STRESS MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF FABRIC

The low stress mechanical properties of a pure wool and a wool / polyester blend twill fab-rics which were abraded at various abrasion cycles were measured using the KES-F system andthe Instron tensile machine. The surface change of fabrics before and after abrasion was stu-died by means of scanning electron microscope. With the increasing number of cycles, the re-covery behavior of the fabrics studied in tensile, shear and bending deformation decrease, theantibuckling ability lowers, the friction coefficient increases. The geometric roughness de-creases during the first step of abrasion then enhances with further abrasion. The influence ofabrasion on mechanical properties of the pure wool fabric are larger than that of blend fabric.     

真丝织物力学性能与服装外观造型之间的关系

在Kawabata等人的研究基础上,对30多种真丝织物的力学性能和八片公主线连衣裙外观造型之间的关系进行了研究,运用了多元线性逐步回归和判别分析方法,找出了影响服装外观成形的几个机械力学因子:厚度、面密度、剪切刚性、弯曲刚性、最大剪切力和纬向的拉伸伸长率等.     

异收缩长丝仿毛原料及其织物风格研究

以高收缩丝、微细旦POY丝、低弹丝(DTY)等差别化长丝为原料,加工成异收缩复合空变纱,对其纱线及仿毛织物进行了基本力学性能研究,对比纯毛织物得出:高收缩涤纶丝(单丝纤度为0.3tex左右)与POY皮芯复合空变加工成异收缩变形纱,其织物仿毛效果好;涤纶混色空变纱织物或与网络弹力丝进行交织的织物仿毛效果也较好。     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

Identification of Wool and Cashmere

The quality number66 wool and the first grade cashmerewere tested and analyzed by using the scanning electronmicroscope(SEM)and the probability distribution of thediameter,the surface scale height and the surface scalethickness of the wool and the cashmere were got,thenthe error identification probability(EIP)of the three pa-rameters were calculated.After verifying that these threeparameters were linear non-related,by using the prob-ability theory,the EIPs of these three parameters weremultiplied,thus,the total EIPs of the wool and the cash-mere were reduced.The result of the experiment verifiedthis conclusion.