精纺面料的弹性整理和织物性能

探讨全毛精纺面料的弹性整理及整理后织物的物理机械性能．通过适当调整面料设计规格并在后整理工序中采用化学弹性整理，赋予织物经向或纬向弹力，改善了精纺面料的风格及服用性能．同时采用Siro-FAST仪测试了这种弹性面料的性能．试验结果表明：经弹性整理的面料，其面料的弹性指标可以达到天然弹性织物的技术性能指标．FAST仪测试表明：弹性面料具有较好的成形性，不会造成服装加工中线缝起皱和熨烫困难；但面料在弹性方向上的延伸性指标过高、湿膨胀率大，以及弯曲刚度和剪切刚度偏小，给剪裁和缝纫加工造成一定困难．     

Effect of Fabric Elongation on the Making Up of Pressure Garments

Pressure garments are widely used in Hong Kong andmany other countries for burn rehabilitation.Thesegarments are mainly made of elastic Lycra fabrics andtailor-made to individual patient's measurement toprovide an appropriate amount of skin-garment in-terface pressure for medical treatment.However,thefabric tension would be reduced due to fabric elonga-tion under prolonged period of stress,and thus theskin-garment interface pressure cannot be main-tained after repeated use of the garment.This paperaims to study the behaviour of fabric elongation of thefabrics commonly used for making pressure garmentsin U.K.and/or Hong Kong.Attempts to correct theexisting practice of drafting the pressure garments forproviding a more effective clinical treatment.     

Evaluation of Woven Fabrics for Comfort Properties in Children’s Summer Wear

This paper evaluates the comfort properties of eightkinds of woven fabric commonly used for children'ssummer wear in Hong Kong,China.Due to the expan-sion of children's wear market and the quality require-ment for parents,objective and subjective measurementsare the main methods used to evaluate the chosen fabricsfor garment deslgners and consumers as reference. Objective measurement was carried out through ex-periments by means of the Kawabata Evaluation Systemfor Fabrics(KES-F).Experimental tests on fabrics in-clude compression,surface,bending,air permeability,thermal and tensile.Subjective measurement was con-ducted by a market research on consumers' opinions onfabrics for children's summer wear in the form of ques-tionnaire survey.These two ways of measurement onfabrics were analyzed and compared. It was found that Fabric Sample 6 which is com-posed of polyester and cotton fibre has the best perfor-mance in terms of its comfort properties.Besides,Sam-ple 4 composes of rayon and cotton fibre also ha     

实时织物悬垂性能物理模型及应用

快速计算机模拟和仿真技术是纺织物、服装的计算机辅助设计和制造的关键技术组成．逼真的纺织物、布料、服装的三维计算机可视化设计在其他许多领域也非常重要．例如在3DCG电影制作中逼真的计算机服装动态特效、3D电脑游戏、网上购物等．本文着重于计算方法，综述和分析了服装物理模型及其应用的最新进展，探讨了当前主要存在的问题，技术挑战，和可能的解决方案．提出了一种基于变形能的服装悬垂模型及算法，并展示了仿真结果．本文所提出的模型适用于纺织物、服装的快速计算机三维动态模拟．另外，也提出和探讨了识别纺织物材料的复杂动态变形材料性能参数的可能性方案．     

针织服装上衣结构特点及其变化规律研究

建立适应针织服装结构设计的方法体系，以科学、准确地设计针织服装样板．用立体裁剪方法进行了针织面料与机织面料在上衣结构中的对比研究，探索出了针织服装上衣结构特点及其变化规律．在同样贴体款式造型下，针织物的弹性对大多数部位的尺寸变化都有显著影响，只有腰围等少部位的尺寸面料弹性对其变化无显著影响．该结论对揭示针织服装上衣结构特点有重要的理论价值，为科学、准确设计针织服装样板提供了理论依据。     

基于关联规则及组合模型的面料需求预测

由于服装的面料组成具有复杂性,企业在不同时间对不同规格型号面料需求量不一致,传统的人工预测及单维度智能预测模型难以解决问题。针对服装企业面料需求非确定性、预测难的痛点,提出基于关联规则及组合模型的面料需求预测方法。文章首先构建Apriori面料型号关联模型,挖掘多批多类面料间的型号关联规则;然后构建Prophet时间序列模型与长短期记忆神经网络(long short-term memory,LSTM)的组合预测模型Prophet-LSTM,结合其在解决面料需求预测问题上的优势;最后将挖掘出的高关联面料型号历史需求数据作为输入,采用量子粒子群算法(quantum particle swarm optimization,QPSO)优化组合模型权值系数,进行关联面料需求量预测。使用RMES(root mean squared error,RMSE)及MAE(mean absolute error,MAE)作为评价指标设计对比实验,实验结果表明：采用量子粒子群优化的QPSOProphet-LSTM面料需求预测模型RMES较Prophet降低5.464,较LSTM降低1.184;MAE较Prophet降低4.261,较LSTM降低0.819,需求预测精度更高,支持服装企业面料柔性生产。     

轻薄府绸织物斜向强伸性能与接缝强力的关系

研究了轻薄织物各向异性与接缝强力的关系，轻薄织物斜向强伸性对接缝强力有明显影响，织物斜向接缝强力主要与织物断裂伸长率有显著相关性，相关系数为0．7389。     

织物起拱第一报:主观评价和心理物理标度

美观是消费者日常服装穿着功能中最重要的指标之一.起拱是一种外衣穿着中引起变化,令人不满的三维残余变形.一种主观评价方法是从一系列起拱织物的照片来理解心理物理学规律,采用优劣排序等级和优劣评判等级两种方法用于心理评价标度.这两种等级互相间紧密相关,但评判等级比排序等级包含更多的信息,可以更好地区分出两种织物间的差异.主观评价结果与测量得到的残余起拱高度之间线性相关,表明了织物起拱特性符合斯特藩指数定律.残余起拱高度对织物起拱特性总方差的贡献在94%以上.其它可能是起拱时各向异性因素引起的.     

An Experimental Study of Aspect Ratio on the Tensile Properties of an Elastic Fabric for Making-up of Pressure Garments

The“cut-and-sewn” pressure garments are normally tailored made in various sizes according to the size of human body as well as the area of burn wounds.When a tubular pressure garment is cut in different length and width measurements,different aspect ratio will be occurred on the elastic fabric for making up the pressuregarment. Many therapists in Hong Kong concerned the change of aspect ratio may affect the tensile properties of the elastic fabric and ultimately will affect the skin-and-garment interface pressure for the patient.The aim of     

服装穿着模拟立体效果的实现方法

用自行研制开发的织物CAD软件进行了织物设计及模拟,并用图像处理方法对该织物进行了服装穿着仿真,使织物设计到服装穿着仿真成为一个有机的整体,为纺织厂能够从服装的穿着效果来决策织物的设计和生产提供了实用的依据。     

摩擦包芯纱织物性能的研究

文章对棉包涤纶长丝摩擦纱、棉包锦纶高弹丝摩擦纱、棉包锦纶全牵伸丝摩擦纱以及棉包粘胶长丝摩擦纱的平纹织物的性能进行了试验研究,并将它们与纯棉环锭纱和纯棉摩擦纱的平纹织物的性能进行了比较和分析。研究结果表明,棉包涤纶长丝摩擦纱织物和棉包锦纶高弹丝摩擦纱织物在服用、舒适性等方面均优于环锭纱织物。这两种摩擦包芯纱织物作为服用织物将具有良好的发展前景。     

服装衣片三角形网格自动剖分

在传统的三角形网格生成和剖分算法基础上，提出了适合服装衣片三角形网格划分的凹多边形网格剖分算法，具有边界清晰，单元形状好，网格密度可控和自动程度高的特点，适合于任意形状的凹或凸多边形，可用于对织物和服装的数值化力学分析计算。     

Plasma Modification of Wool: The Effect of Plasma Gas on the Properties of the Wool Fabric

The wool fabrics were treated with low temperature plasma (LTP) using three different gases, namely (ⅰ) oxygen, (ⅱ) nitrogen and (ⅲ) 25％ hydrogen/75％ nitrogen gas mixture. After LTP treatment, the low stress mechanical properties, surface properties and thermal properties of the fabrics were investigated by kES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System) Instruments composing of KES-FBI for tensile and shear property measurement, KES-FB2 for pure bending measurement, kES-FB3 for compression measurement, KES-FB4 for surface friction and surface roughness measurement, and KES-F7 for thermal property measurement. The first four instruments were used for investigating the charaeterlstlc aspect related to fabrle hand while the last one was mainly for the fabric comfort. The properties of LTP treated fabrics under the effect of different gases were compared with the untreated fabric quantitatively.     

Sensory Evaluation in Characterization of Fabric Hand

IntroductionThefabrichand(touchfeelingofafabric),relatedtotheconceptofcomfort,styleandappearance,isanessentialsalesargumentofagarment.Tosatisfywiththemarketrequirements,manufacturersintextileindustryproducenewmaterialswithdifferenttouchfeelings.However,theevaluationofthisattributeisstillnotsolvedduetoitscomplexity.Inthetextile/garmentindustry,fabricevaluationisperformedintwoways:1)subjectiveevaluation;and2)objectiveevaluation.Thesubjectiveevaluationisthesubjectivefeelingwhenexpertsortrainedpa…     

IN RELATION TO CLOTHING COMFORT DYNAMIC MOISTURE TRANSFER THROUGH FABRICS

A sweating apparatus has been developed to permit simultaneous measurement for fabric temperature change and relative humidity change at outer still air layer of fabrics. In this paper, we compared the temperature and relative humidity changes for silk fabrics with polyester fabrics and got GM(1,P) relation models respectively between maximum fabric temperature change, maximum relative humidity change at outer still air layer and relative fabric character parameters. Furthermore, by comparing the objective experiments with subjective wear trials, it is found that the amounts of the change rate of fabric temperature and relative humidity at outer still layer are the most important factors which influence clothing comfort in dynamic moisture transfer condition. The more the changes of temperature and R.H., the more the mugginess and the thermal sensation.     

＂Nonwoven＂ Versus ＂Engineered Fabric＂： the Impact These Terms Have on the 15- to 25-Year-Old Females＇ Intent to Purchase

Since the fall of 2004, textile and apparel students at a United States public university have been designing apparel with nonwoven fabrics. Over the last two years, the students' designs have sparked interest in the industry which has begun to create new and innovative fabric designs. The industry, however, still struggles over the best name for the fabric. This sparked the research question, "What impact 15- to 25-year-old's intent to purchase a garment?"Through a convenience sampling method, an online questionnaire was distributed to 15- to 25-year-old United States females. The questionnaire included questions regarding demographics and psychographics, and asked respondents to choose garments they would intend to purchase based on known attributes such as style, brand,price, place, and fabrication and fiber content. There were a total of 14 garments, seven tops and seven bottoms. Four of these garments, two tops and two bottoms were constructed of nonwoven fabrics.The respondents accepted the nonwoven fabrics when shown in garments in an online setting. This demonstrates that visually, these fabrics are comparable to traditional woven and knit fabrics. The "nonwoven" polyester and nylon blend fabric increased in popularity when the respondents were told the fabrication and fiber content.However, the "engineered" polyester and polyethylene blend fabric dropped to last place when fabrication and fiber content were known. This indicates that 15- to 25-year-old respondents do not understand or are not interested in fibers or fabrications described as "engineered fabric" with a polyester/polyethylene blend. More research will have to be done to determine if the fabrication term "engineered fabric"or if the polyester/polyethylene blend fiber content caused a lack of interest or decreased intent to purchase.Research has currently begun to determine the right combination of fiber content and fiber size to develop a nonwoven fabric with an acceptable hand for apparel fabrics.     

Prediction of the Performance of the Fabrics in Garment Manufacturing by Artificial Neural Network

An artificial neural network is used to predict the performance of fabrics in clothing manufacturing. The predictions are based on fabric mechanical properties measured on the FAST system. The influences of the different ANN‘s construct on the convergence speed and the prediction accuracy are investigated. The result indicates that the BP neural network is an efficiency technique and has a wide prospect in the application to garment processing.     

织物风格评价的灰色研究

对于织物风格评价这一灰色系统的评价问题,可以用灰色关联分析的方法来评价织物风格的优劣,评价仿真织物的近似程度,并可用灰色关联度作为风格值的量值。另外,还可用构造造近优复合灰元模型求解近优良的方法来评价织物。     

The Development of a New Anti-electromagnetic Radiation Fabric

By the study of electromagnetic shielding principle, we have designed some new style fabrics for antielectromagnetic radiation through the research of raw materials and fabric texture, and solved the key technical problems such as the manufacture of composite yarn which composed of stainless steel filament and cotton yarn. As a newly developed high technology material, the new style anti-electromagnetic radiation fabric was woven by the special yarn composed of stainless filament and nature fiber. The new fabric overcomes the defect in the production and service of the shielding fabrics at present and satisfies the people's requirement the routine job and life. With further improvement, it can be widely used in aviation,navigation and military project, underground project and so on.     

弹性针织物缝纫线的选用

用涤棉线及ＰＢＴ改性涤纶制成的弹力线，采用二种缝迹缝制二种弹性针织面料，对形成的缝迹进行强力测试分析，得出使用中弹线或高弹线时断裂强度比用涤棉线有较大的提高．