用EIB对变形纱线直径变化特征的测试

为了对变形纱外观形态特征进行更好的评价,利用EIB对线密度接近（16tex左右）的棉纱、毛纱、加捻长丝、空气变形纱和假捻变形纱分别进行测试,对获得的纱线直径、纱线片段不匀（CV）、直径粗细分布、纱线模拟形态图等参数和指标进行分析,并在此基础上对实验纱线直径变化情况进行比较和评价.通过实验定量地说明线密度为16tex左右的变形纱纱线直径粗细变化类似于短纤棉毛纱,并且得出利用EIB来比较和评价纱线直径粗细变化特征的方法是有效的.     

毛涤粘混纺纱线微波定捻工艺的优化

用微波对4种不同细度的毛涤粘混纺纱线进行定捻,研究微波快速定捻毛涤粘混纺纱线的可行性及其定捻工艺．分析影响毛涤粘混纺纱线微波定捻效果的因素,并通过正交试验优化微波定捻工艺：微波功率1000W ,作用时间3min ,回潮率控制在9.2％左右．实验表明,经微波定捻后的纱线较传统蒸纱定捻后的纱线断裂强度有所提高,断裂伸长率有所增加,纱线的强力不匀率有所下降,纱线的定捻率有所提高,能满足生产要求．     

运用高收缩涤纶长丝开发机织物新品种

高收缩涤纶纤维在国内已研制成功,在国外运用极广,用量很大。本文探讨由物理法制得的高收缩涤纶长丝在机织物中的应用。讨论了纱线结构、织物组织、高收缩纤维含量、收缩率与织物密度的关系等问题。提出了仿制绉纱类轻薄丝织物、凹凸织物和中厚型仿毛织物的方法。     

等离子体联合狗毛蛋白改性的毛/粘混纺纱的染色性能

采用3因素3水平正交实验,以上染百分率为指标,优选出有利于改善毛/粘混纺纱线活性染料染色性能的最佳空气等离子体处理条件,即压力120Pa,功率120W,时间5min.并研究经此等离子体联合狗毛蛋白助剂改性的毛/粘混纺纱线的染色性能.结果表明,二者联合处理的混纺纱线的染色性能进一步提高.     

纤维分布和混纺比对毛涤混纺纱毛型感的影响

采用裁面分析了不同混纺比的毛涤混纺纱的毛型感，探讨了毛/涤混纺比与汉密尔顿指数、表面纤维混纺百分率及毛纤维有效覆盖率的关系，分析了不同混纺比的毛/涤混纺纱截面五等份圆环中的实际混纺比和填充紧密度。指出表层纤维混纺百分率是反映纱线毛型感的较为直观、方便、准确的指标，同时提出能保持毛涤混纺纱毛型感的较为合理的混纺比。     

改性羊毛/苎麻平行纺复合纱的开发

介绍了羊毛与苎麻的前处理改性工艺．采用平行纺的纺纱方法在空心锭花式捻线机上开发出了新型长丝包须条的单包与双包结构的羊毛／苎麻复合纱．此复合纱具有结构稳定、条干均匀、毛羽较少、风格独特等特点，为毛织物的轻薄化、凉爽化开辟了新途径．     

Torsional Properties and Torque Relaxation of Cashmere Yarn

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AN INVESTIGATION OF MODELLING ON DRAFTING PROCCES OF WOOLLEN GILL MACHINE

The combing process of gill machine is an important link in the wool spinning technology.Inorder to improve the quality of products,it is necessary to study the new autoleveling device whichuses the modern control theory and microcomputer science.We have to set up a mathematicalmodel for object:As the woolen yarns (both input and output) are complex random process,it issuitable for CARMA (controlled autoregressive-moving average) to describe the object by meansof time series analyses of models.     

短纤维强力的概率分布分析

纤维强力对于纱线乃至织物来说都是一个重要的性能，而纤维的强力有一定分布。这里对羊毛、绢丝、棉、亚麻、腈纶、涤纶、芳纶、玻璃纤维、碳纤维等9种纤维的强力进行了测试和统计分布拟合。发现棉、腈纶、涤纶、芳纶和碳纤维的强力严格符合二参数的Weibull分布，而羊毛、绢丝的强力则符合三参数的Weibull分布，而亚麻的强力用两种     

毛涤复合纱线扭转性能及扭应力松弛行为的研究

应用自行研制的直接测量纱线扭矩装置，这里测试数种纱线的扭矩-捻度关系曲线及其在常温和热状态下的扭应力松弛关系曲线，分析相同捻度下各种纱线扭矩差异的根源，发现涤长丝与毛短纤复合纱线的特殊结构是造成复合纱线残余扭矩较大的主要原因，这里的测试结果可作为纱线的捻度设计及捻度定型工艺设计的参考依据。     

用EIB对变形纱的外观形态和膨松性的测试与探讨

为了对变形纱的外观形态和膨松性进行更好的评价，利用EIB对几种线密度较接近的棉纱、毛纱、低弹丝和空变纱分别进行测试，可以获得纱线的毛羽、丝圈或丝弧的数据、分布情况、形态图及纱线的直径；根据测试得到的数据，利用新建立的表征变形纱膨松性的指标进行比较和评价，得出用这种方法来评价是可行的，且低弹丝的膨松性较高。     

Structures and Properties of Composite Yarns of Filaments and Wool Staple Fibers

More and more composite yarns of filament and wool staple fiber have been applied to develop the new type of fabrics. However, the great difference in yarn structures between the composite yarns and conventional staple yarns does affect the properties of yarns and fabrics. In this paper, it has been studied that the differences of the composite yarn properties of tensile, bending rigidity, torsional rigidity, the hairiness and irregularity etc.     

THE EFFECT OF, ABRASION ON LOW STRESS MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF FABRIC

The low stress mechanical properties of a pure wool and a wool / polyester blend twill fab-rics which were abraded at various abrasion cycles were measured using the KES-F system andthe Instron tensile machine. The surface change of fabrics before and after abrasion was stu-died by means of scanning electron microscope. With the increasing number of cycles, the re-covery behavior of the fabrics studied in tensile, shear and bending deformation decrease, theantibuckling ability lowers, the friction coefficient increases. The geometric roughness de-creases during the first step of abrasion then enhances with further abrasion. The influence ofabrasion on mechanical properties of the pure wool fabric are larger than that of blend fabric.     

Principles and Chief Technologies in Developing Light-weighted Worsted Fabrics

More and more light-weighted fabrics are being required by the market, especially for the worsted manufacture. In the past, such fabrics are produced mainly through changing the structure of woven goods or by using finer yarns. But these possibilities are very limited. In this paper, new devices are discussed: (1) on the yarn level - to use single yarns instead of conventional doubled ones, to decrease number of fibers in yarn cross sections both during spuming and after finishing; (2) on the fiber level - to use finer fibers in blends with wool and modification of the wool fibers; (3) on the macromolecule level - to stretch the macromolecules in alpha keratin, to get super fine wool fibers.     

羊毛拉伸细化技术综述

阐述了国内外羊毛细化技术的发展过程，并详细介绍了拉伸细化的机理及各种工艺流程，同时列表说明改性后纤维，纱线及织物性质的变化。     

Woolen Textile Simulation by Synthesis Mapping

This paper proposes a new rapid and efficient method for woolen textile simulation-Cmapping synthesize. This method uses a stochastic function to simulate fuzz on some types of wool textile. The wool yarns are simulated on the basis of Phong illumination model. In order to obtain a visual effect of the wool textile with fuzz, the light intensity of fuzz is synthesized as a color parameter in the Phong illumination model after the yarns have been simulated. The model of woolen textile with fuzz can be built eventually. With synthesis mapping methods, user can choose his favorite fuzz density on the wool by controlling some appropriate parameters.     

整经经档的成因及预防

毛织品的整经经档疵点呈一上升趋势，主要集中在缎纹织物上。文章简要分析了整经机性能与整经经档形成的关系，指出现代整经技术进步对克服经档疵点的贡献。同时，根据多年生产经验，重点从提高毛纱质量、根据整经机性能针对不同纱线质量优化整经工艺和操作诸方面提出了预防整经经档的措施。     

Strength Distribution Analysis of Typical Staple Fibers

IntroductionThe mechanical properties of yarns are deter mined bytheir constituent fibers.Consequently,the strength offibers is an i mportant property in deter mining the finalquality of all textile products.Generally,it is al ways truethat the higher the strength of fibers,the higher thestrength of yarns and fabrics.However,because of the variation of fiber strength,the fibers within a yarn will not break at the same ti meunder a tensile load.In fact,break will take place at theweakest fiber…     

REPORT ON A PROJECT AIMED AT INCREASING THE STRENGTH OF FRICTION SPUN YARN BY USING A FALSE TWIST PROCESS

The lower strength of friction spun yarns has became a key problem that hinder the develop-ment of friction spinning,especially in high speeds and fine yarns.In this paper a project aimed atincreasing the strength of friction spun yarns by using a false twist process has been made.In re-ported experiment false twist was inserted into the yarn which has been formed on a friction spin-ning machine,so that it made the yarn untwist at first,then regain the twist.In the meantime draftwas applied to generate more tension than that which had been experienced during yarn formationon the friction spinning machine.It made the yarn reforming and the loosely bound fibres in thefriction spun yarn formed due to extremely low tension on the friction spinning machine becametighter.Results indicate that with the proper draft,tension and false twist the tenacity of processedyarn will increase more than 10%.This project is an attempt to discover whether improvements can be made and whether it isworth pursuing research into modifications of yarn structure.The results imply that if the yarntension can be raised during yarn formation on the friction spinning machine or a chance is offeredto the yarn to reform after the yarn formation the yarn tenacity will be increased obviously.     

糜蛋白酶预处理羊毛的低温染色性能

用正交试验法研究了糜蛋白酶对羊毛纤维的预处理情况,再用染料酸性大红BS在较低温度下对预处理后的羊毛进行染色,测定了羊毛的上染率、表观色深值、断裂强力等性能。实验结果表明：在糜蛋白酶用量为2％（owf）、pH值为7、温度为40℃、时间为60min的预处理条件下,酸性大红BS在80℃下染羊毛的上染率达到95．1％,色深值（K／S）达到15．05,强力下降率只有5．78％,与常规染色工艺条件下的染色性能相比,上染率和色深值均有提高,而纤维强力损失较小。