亲水性疏水性织物动态热湿舒适性比较研究

以纯毛织物作为亲水性织物的代表、以纯涤纶织物作为疏水性织物的代表，利用织物动态热湿舒适性能测试仪，采用定量汗液蒸发的方法，研究了两类织物的动态热湿舒适性能，并对两者的差异进行了理论分析。研究表明：在动态条件下由于皮肤要经历干燥—出汗—蒸发—干燥、织物要经历干燥—吸湿—放湿—干燥的过程，此时，亲水性的吸湿性好的织物对汗液的蒸发起了阻碍作用，因此动态条件下使用疏水性的织物比使用亲水性的织物更趋合理。     

Coolmax织物湿舒适性能的灰色聚类分析

对Coolmax织物、棉、涤纶、涤棉织物的芯吸效应、保水率、干燥率、透湿性、透气性进行了测试分析；并通过人体穿着试验对服装的湿舒适性进行了评价；最后利用灰色聚类分析对6种织物的湿舒适性能做了综合评价。结果表明：Coolmax织物的湿舒适性能优于普通涤纶、棉、涤棉织物；客观试验与主观穿着试验的结果具有较好的一致性。     

Finishing Effect on Warmth Property of Cotton/Kapok Blended Knitted Fabric

Nowadays,more and more natural or functional fibers are being investigated due to their utilization in thermal underwear.Kapok fiber is one of the natural cellulosic fibers whose source is the kapok plant. It has hollow body and sealed tail,which exhibits desirable features required for functional textiles of this nature. In this study,cotton / kapok( 80 /20 by mass) blended yarn with two types of yarn size 18. 5 and 14. 8 tex,respectively are knitted into plain stitches. The fabrics are undergone with an optimal preparation plan according to orthogonal design. Then,after dyeing and softening,fabric properties including thermal and water-vapour resistances, wicking property, pilling behaviour, and surface morphology,are tested and scrutinized for their candidacy for thermal underwear. The results showed that cotton / kapok blended fabrics have good thermal resistance which is significantly higher than those of cotton / modal blended fabrics,and the same water vapour resistance compared with cotton / modal blended fabrics which are normally used as underwear. Cotton / modal blended knitted fabrics has better pilling grade than cotton / kapok blended fabrics. Meanwhile, the cotton / kapok blends fabrics have good wicking property. Collectively,it was concluded that cotton / kapok blended fabric was appropriate for thermal underwear. However,the main limitation of these fabrics is their pilling properties.     

Preparation of TiO2 Coated on Fabrics and Their Photocatalytic Reactivity

Nanoscale titanium dioxide functional films were prepared on the surface of the cotton woven fabric and the polyester knitted fabric at room temperature by Radio Frequency （RF） magnetron sputtering process. The surface microstructure and morphology were characterized by scanning electron microscope （SEM） and X-ray diffraction （XRD）. Photocatalytic property of two treated fabrics was tested in solar and ultraviolet （UV） radiation respectively, and their photocatalytic activity was compared. The results showed that the nanoscale titanium dioxide deposited on the surface of the treated fabrics was at different anastasia phase. The treated fabrics have excellent photocatalytic property, and after 30 launderings, the photocatalytic activity still maintained at a high level. Also, it indicated that the photocatalytic activity of the treated fabrics in UV radiation was higher than in solar radiation, but the effect wasn＇t very distinct. And at the same experimental magnetron sputtering parameters, the cotton coated with the nanoscale titanium dioxide showed better performance than the polyester fabric coated with the nanoscale titanium dioxide in terms of the photocatalytic property.     

聚氨酯涂层织物防水、透湿性能的研究

防水性能和透湿性能达到和谐统一是防水透湿织物需要解决的关键问题.这里基于对微孔亲水性和非亲水性聚氨酯（PU）涂层织物的防水、透温性能和结构参数等的测试和研究,来阐明织物防水、透湿机理,透过聚氨酯（PU）涂层织物的水气总量由气相的＂孔隙扩散＂、气相和液相的＂吸附-扩散-解吸＂和液相的＂毛细管传递＂组成,织物的防水性能与液相的＂吸附-扩散-解吸＂有关,并受到液相的＂毛细管传递＂影响.     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

竹浆纤维含量及纬密对竹浆纤维/棉织物防紫外线性能的影响

采用HB902型防紫外线透过及防晒保护测试系统,根据GB/T6529—2008和GB/T18830—2009对15种不同规格的棉与竹浆纤维/棉交织面料的防紫外线性能进行了测试,研究了竹浆纤维含量及纬纱密度变化对交织物防紫外线性能的影响.结果表明：在UVB波段的紫外线透过率,竹浆纤维/棉交织物小于纯棉织物;而在UVA波段中340～400 nm的紫外线透过率,竹浆纤维/棉交织物大于纯棉织物;随着纬纱中竹浆纤维含量的增加,中波长紫外线透过率呈现先减小再增加再减小再增加的变化规律,竹浆纤维质量分数为30%时中波长紫外线透过率最小;随着纬纱中竹浆纤维含量的增加,长波长紫外线透过率呈现增加的规律;当经密不变、纬纱中竹浆纤维含量不变时,随着纬密的增大,紫外线透过率减小,织物的防紫外线性能增强.     

竹浆纤维含量及纬密对竹浆纤维/棉织物防紫外线性能的影响

采用HB902型防紫外线透过及防晒保护测试系统,根据GB/T6529—2008和GB/T18830—2009对15种不同规格的棉与竹浆纤维/棉交织面料的防紫外线性能进行了测试,研究了竹浆纤维含量及纬纱密度变化对交织物防紫外线性能的影响.结果表明:在UVB波段的紫外线透过率,竹浆纤维/棉交织物小于纯棉织物;而在UVA波段中340～400 nm的紫外线透过率,竹浆纤维/棉交织物大于纯棉织物;随着纬纱中竹浆纤维含量的增加,中波长紫外线透过率呈现先减小再增加再减小再增加的变化规律,竹浆纤维质量分数为30%时中波长紫外线透过率最小;随着纬纱中竹浆纤维含量的增加,长波长紫外线透过率呈现增加的规律;当经密不变、纬纱中竹浆纤维含量不变时,随着纬密的增大,紫外线透过率减小,织物的防紫外线性能增强.     

六氟丙烯等离子体处理纯棉织物的研究

以六氟丙烯为气氛对纯棉织物进行等离子体处理，通过改变处理功率、时间和压力等条件，考察处理后的纯棉织物表面的拒水性能。采用接触角作为评价拒水性大小的依据，当改变压强、时间和功率中的某一因素时接触角呈现规律性的变化，每个因素都存在相应的最适条件。经过皂洗后，等离子体处理过的纯棉织物的拒水性有一定的下降，再经过数次皂洗则趋于平稳。等离子体处理后织物的拉伸强力增大，颜色和透湿量的变化不大，基本不影响其服用舒适性。     

咪唑类离子液体的亲疏水性对电润湿器件性能的影响

文中研究离子液体应用于电润湿显示器件的导电流体性能. 选取极性较大的乙基咪唑为离子液体的阳离子,改变阴离子的亲疏水性,对比了几种离子液体的温度窗口、粘度等物理性质,并重点研究了离子液体亲疏水性对电润湿特性、油墨萃取、器件响应等方面的影响. 同时,在1-乙基-3-甲基咪唑四氟硼酸盐离子液体的阳离子上添加羟基基团,得到具有更强亲水性的离子液体. 结果表明:亲水性高的离子液体在介电材料含氟聚合物表面的初始接触角比较大,对油墨中染料的萃取程度比疏水性离子液体弱,证明了电润湿器件更适合选取亲水性高的离子液体作为导电流体. 最后,以1-乙基-3-甲基咪唑二腈胺盐离子液体作为导电流体制备的电润湿器件得到了较佳的电学和光学响应性能.     

Anthropomorphic Classification of Tactile Qualities of Woven Fabrics Based on Skin/Textile Friction-Induced Vibrations

The common method classifying tactile qualities of fabrics is indirectly based on their difference of purely mechanical and physical properties. When human skin slides across fabric surfaces, the friction interaction between fabrics and skin will occur and trigger the cutaneouS tactile receptors, which are responsible for perceived tactile sensation. By the extracted features from friction- induced vibration signals, this paper presents an anthropomorphic classification method classifying tactile qualities of fabrics. The friction-induced vibration signals are recorded by a three-axis accelerator sensor, and the entice testing procedure is conducted in an anthropomorphic way to obtain vibration signals. The fast Fourier transform （FFT） is applied to analyzing the recoded signals, and then the classification features are extracted from the FFT data by the neurophysiological properties of tactile receptors. The extracted features are used to classify fabric samples by the softness sensation and the roughness sensation, respectively, and the classification performance is checked by a comparison with those in a sensory evaluation procedure. The results showed that the anthropomorphic objective classification method was precise and efficient to clarify tactile qualities of woven fabrics.     

大豆蛋白纤维织物热湿舒适性能研究

通过时大豆蛋白纤维织物及类似风格的棉、毛、丝织物的导热性、保暖性、冷感性、透湿性、输水性、润湿性及透气性的测试分析，建立了时大豆蛋白纤维织物热湿传递性能的较全面的认识；并利用灰色聚类分析评价系统时前述4类织物的热湿舒适性能做了综合评价。     

IN RELATION TO CLOTHING COMFORT DYNAMIC MOISTURE TRANSFER THROUGH FABRICS

A sweating apparatus has been developed to permit simultaneous measurement for fabric temperature change and relative humidity change at outer still air layer of fabrics. In this paper, we compared the temperature and relative humidity changes for silk fabrics with polyester fabrics and got GM(1,P) relation models respectively between maximum fabric temperature change, maximum relative humidity change at outer still air layer and relative fabric character parameters. Furthermore, by comparing the objective experiments with subjective wear trials, it is found that the amounts of the change rate of fabric temperature and relative humidity at outer still layer are the most important factors which influence clothing comfort in dynamic moisture transfer condition. The more the changes of temperature and R.H., the more the mugginess and the thermal sensation.     

An Improved Heat Transfer Model for Flame Resistant Fabric Used in Thermal Protective Clothing

An improved numerical heat transfer model considering pyrolysis effect is proposed to predict thermal performance of heat-resistant fabric subjected to radiant heat flux. The model incorporates the heat-induced changes in fabric thermophysical properties. The new model has been validated with data from modified Radiant Protective Performance （RPP） tests of flame-resistant cotton fabrics. Comparison with experimental data shows that the predictions of mass loss rates and temperature profiles within the charring material and skin simulant are in reasonably good agreement with the experiments. Results from the numerical model contribute to a better understanding of the heat transfer process within flame-resistant fabrics under high heat flux conditions, and also to establish a systematic method for analyzing heat transfer in other fibrous materials applications.     

细旦丙纶针织物湿舒适性研究——常规客观试验方法测试研究

针对国内新近研制开发的细旦丙纶纤维,本文依据服装舒适性理论,运用常规客观测试方法,对细旦丙纶针织物的液态水传递能力、液态水保持能力、透气性能,放湿干燥性能进行了探讨,最后用灰色聚类判别分析法进行了综合评价。     

纯棉针织物的秦皮天然染料染色

以水为提取剂从中药秦皮中提取天然染料对纯棉针织物进行染色,研究不同媒染方式以及染料质量浓度、染浴pH值、染色温度及时间、媒染剂硫酸亚铁用量等后媒法染色工艺对纯棉针织物染色效果的影响.结果表明,后媒法染色效果最好,秦皮天然染料对纯棉针织物的后媒染染色最佳工艺为：秦皮天然染料质量浓度12g/L,染液pH 4,染色温度90℃,染色时间60min,媒染剂硫酸亚铁用量5g/L.织物经后媒染染色后得色均匀,各项色牢度较好.     

钛纳米溶胶对棉织物的抗紫外性能研究

利用溶胶凝胶法制备了钛纳米溶胶，用激光粒度仪对溶胶粒径进行测试，用扫描电镜对溶胶在织物上的状态进行表征，用紫外透射率分析仪对织物的紫外透射率进行测试，实验结果表明经溶胶处理过的棉织物拥有优异、耐久的抗紫外性能，而物理机械性能变化小。     

锦纶66包芯纱牛仔面料开发

使用锦纶66纤维开发高性能、高品质的牛仔面料,以粘胶为外包纤维,锦纶66或氨纶为芯丝制成36.4和28.0 tex的包芯纱为纬纱,使用剑杆织机使其与36.4和28.0 tex的纯棉纱线进行交织,制成牛仔面料。对锦纶66包芯纱和氨纶包芯纱所织制的6种牛仔面料进行色牢度、耐磨性、强力、弹性回复性、折皱回复性和弯曲性能等性能测试并进行对比分析,发现锦纶66包芯纱牛仔面料的弹性达到氨纶包芯纱牛仔面料的弹性水平,且其强力和柔软度更佳。以粘胶/锦纶66(3.33 tex/10 F)包芯纱织制面料比粘胶/锦纶66(3.33 tex/34 F)强力更大、弹性回复性更好,且更柔软。同时,采用36.4 tex纱线所织制的面料的强力、弹性和折皱回复性更好,但28.0 tex纱线所织制的面料更柔软。     

负载纳米TiO2的纯棉抗菌织物

在室温条件下采用射频磁控溅射方法,在纯棉机织物表面沉积TiO2功能纳米结构层.利用原子力显微镜和X射线衍射仪分别分析其表面形貌和晶态结构,同时对负载纳米TiO2织物的抗菌性和耐洗性进行了初步研究.实验表明,在拟定的溅射工艺条件下,纯棉机织物表面沉积了晶粒较为均匀、粒径较小的锐钛矿型纳米TiO2功能结构层,这一功能层使负载织物呈现出优良的抗菌性能;同时负载织物具有良好的耐洗性,经30次洗涤后,其抗菌性能仍保持在很高的水平.