一步法涤纶弹力型绉丝织物性能研究

涤纶仿真丝绉类织物的绉丝通常是对长丝加强捻经热定型获得。目前国外已采用加强捻、热定型、假捻三合一新工艺。本文通过选用两种加工工艺获得绉丝,然后进行织造、后整理,并对三种双绉织物(包括02真丝双绉)的起绉效果、光感、形感、透气性及力学性能等进行测试对比,结果表明,一步法涤纶弹力型绉丝织物起绉效果好,光泽柔和,手感膨松丰满、柔软,有关力学性能与02真丝双绉比较接近。     

运用高收缩涤纶长丝开发机织物新品种

高收缩涤纶纤维在国内已研制成功,在国外运用极广,用量很大。本文探讨由物理法制得的高收缩涤纶长丝在机织物中的应用。讨论了纱线结构、织物组织、高收缩纤维含量、收缩率与织物密度的关系等问题。提出了仿制绉纱类轻薄丝织物、凹凸织物和中厚型仿毛织物的方法。     

利用长丝的结构参数计算长丝芯吸速率的方法

通过有捻长丝织物芯吸速率的测试，利用一元线性回归方法，发现有捻长丝织物芯吸速率与长丝细度的平方根和捻度之商间存在着较好的线性关系。因此该回归方程可作为计算长丝织物芯吸速率的一个经验方式。     

APPLICATION OF COMPOSITE FIBRE TO HIGH ELASTIC KNITTED FABRIC

The knitting condition and technology for PBT/PET composite fibre on loop wheel machine as well as the effect of knitted fabric structure and stitch parameter are discussed in this paper. The properties of high elastic plain knitted fabrics are also discussed.     

Research on the Loop Deformation of Flat Silk Knitted Fabric Made from Parallel Spun Silk/ramie Core Yarn

This paper analyzes the causes of loop deformation of flat silk knitted fabric made from parallel spun silk/ramie core yarn. Through the measurement and analysis on the loop deformation of various samples, it is concluded that the problem herein mentioned would be improved to a certain extent by changing the fabric density or mixknitting from yarn with different direction of twist.     

甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯接枝改性真丝织物的研究

本文以甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯（HEMA）为单体，过硫酸钾为引发剂．对真丝织物进行接枝改性处理。探讨了不同处理条件对接枝效果及其真丝织物性能的影响。研究表明．选用合适的工艺参数对蚕丝织物进行接枝处理，在保持真丝绸原有风格的同时．可获得较好的改性效果。     

脱胶工艺对丝织物穿着性能的影响

本文讨论了脱胶工艺对真丝织物服用性能的影响,并测试了其服用性能最重要的指标,如:丝织物的白度、亮度、断裂强度、断裂延伸、动摩擦系数和粗糙程度等。实验结果表明:纯碱是真丝织物脱胶的主要用剂;丝织物的脱胶率与脱胶液内的纯碱浓度有关,但最好采用纯碱和表面活性剂作为混合脱胶剂;丝织物在纯碱2—3g/L 和油酸钠3g/L 溶液中脱胶1小时,所得白度、亮度较高,断裂强度和断裂延伸下降较少,并可减少丝织物动摩擦系数和降低其粗糙程度,改善其表面性能。     

针织涤纶外衣面料一次定形工艺剖析

本文从流变学观点论证了针织涤纶外衣面料一次定型工艺的缺欠，并建议在一次定型后区段建立足够的无张力或少张力的热定型区，以保证产品的尺寸稳定性等各项质量指标。     

异面效应织物组织设计方法

本文根据省综设计呢地组织和双层组织的构作原理,分析解剖了 A 面为平纹组织,B 面为呢地组织的双层结构,提出了这种结构的一般的设计方法。文章又对设计方法进行了展开,讨论了 A 面改为斜纹或其他基础组织,B 面仍为呢地组织的设计方法,以及 A 面组织改变之后会给织物带来的影响。又讨论了正反面若采用不同的纱线性质、不同的纱线条份、不同的纱线色彩、上下层经纬纱不同的排列比等,来配以异面效应的组织,会给织物的功能、机理、色彩等带来影响。     

Wet Permeability and Moisture Vapor Transmission Characteristics of Soybean Knitted Fabrics

Wet permeability of fibrous assembly is mainly influenced by the properties of liquid and the configurations of the fiber which consist of diameter of fiber, twist angle and fiber alignment in a yarn. It can be seen from experimental results that the knitted fabric made of soybean (SB) fiber has good properties both in wet permeability and vapor transmission so that the knitting technology and fabric characteristics can be improved.     

凉爽棉针织产品开发初探

对强捻棉纱的可编性及产品的服用性能进行了探讨。强捻棉针织产品所表现出的服用性能体现出它具有凉爽特点。     

Effect of Processing Conditions on the Compression Elasticity of Three Dimensional Crimp Staple*

The multi-hollow three dimensional(3-D)crimp sta-ple were prepared by the non-symmetrical cooling spin-ning technology.The material properties,spinneret shape,drawing conditions,heat-setting conditions and silicon finishing conditions that influence the compression elasticity of the staple have been investigated.It is found that the compression elasticity of 3-D crimp PET staple is larger than that of 3-D crimp PP staple.The com-pression elasticity of the 5-hollow staple is much larger     

纬编真丝可编性的工艺研究

本文通过一系列实验，提出了较为理想的真丝浸泡助剂和浸泡工艺，以使经处理后的真丝能在纬编机上顺利编织，并对捻丝上机织造的传统方法作了合理的改进。     

加捻程度对着色涤纶纱线颜色变化规律的影响

为探究加捻对着色涤纶长丝颜色变化的影响规律,满足色纺纱线及最终着色涤纶织物的产品设计的需要,采用思维士测色仪测试和分析了不同加捻程度的着色(棕绿色)涤纶长丝纱线的颜色变化规律．测试结果表明：随着纱线加捻程度的增加,着色涤纶长丝纱线颜色的色度指标明度、饱和度呈负指数规律下降,色调角略有增大．即纱线颜色将变“深”、“暗”,且其色相偏向于“蓝绿”色调．     

Structure and Properties of Silk Fibers Grafted with Vinyl Siloxane Monomer

IntroductionSilk are used extensively in textile field because of itsexcellent characteristics , but silk crease and yellow easily .Grafting of silk fibers with vinyl monomers is considered asan effective method to substantially i mprove its intrinsicproperties . The most popular vinyl monomers currently usedare methyl methacrylate[1 ,2], hydroxypropyl methacrylate[3]and methacrylamide[4]etc .. The properties of silk fibersgrafted with these monomers were i mproved . But thephysical propertie…     

织物的动态湿传递

本文用自制的动态模拟装置,探讨了服装面料的动态湿传递,并测定了在非稳态条件下,人体汗水的蒸发及水汽传递的情况.通过对全棉、涤棉、涤毛、真丝、细麻、粗麻等7种服装面料的试验,提出织物的结构参数对湿传递影响的多元回归方程,并得出了面料厚度对湿传递影响最明显的结论.     

THE EFFECTS OF PLASMA-INDUCED GRAFT COPOLYMERIZATION WITH ACRYLIC ACID ON THE STRUCTURE AND DYEING PROPERTIES OF MULBERRY SILK

The effects of plasma-induced graft copolymerization with acrylic acid (AAc) on the structure and dyeing properties of mulberry silk are investigated. Through the transmission infrared spectroscopy(IR) , attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy(ATR-IR) and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy(XPS) studies, changes of the surface structure and composition are observed. The results show that plasma-induced graft copolymerization has a different meehanism from that of chemical graft copolymerization. The plasma graft copolymerization brings AAc branch polymers into the surface of silk through the initiation of some kinds of oxygen and nitrogen groups created by plasma. That is just the reason that the dyeing ability and color fastness of plasma-grafted silk for cationic dyestuff increase and its mechanical properties have not been changed significantly.     

纤维素酶在苎麻针织物后整理加工中的应用

分析了苎麻针织物产生刺痒感的原因;并将裕中牌水洗酵素应用到苎麻针织物后整理中,探讨了该纤维素酶用于苎麻针织物酶处理时的合理工艺及其工艺条件。研究结果表明。该纤维素酶可以改善苎麻针织物的手感、柔软性及刺痒感,提高其服用性能;在苎麻织物后整理加工中具有广阔的应用前景。     

染色真丝织物的柠檬酸防皱整理

分别采用柠檬酸、2D树脂、柠檬酸／三乙醇胺整理真丝织物，分析了它们对真丝织物折皱回复角、染色牢度、服用性能及色差值的影响程度，同时分析了添加剂三乙醇胺的作用．结果表明，三乙醇胺能增加织物对阴离子染料的亲和力，明显改善整理织物的变色；可以提高真丝织物的湿折皱回复角，真丝织物的强力损失也得到降低．     

改善涤纶仿真丝织物柔软、悬垂性的探讨

本文用逐步回归方法探求涤纶仿真丝织物的柔软、悬垂性和织物结构参数之间的关系.得出改善悬垂性除与原料有关外,还需增强丝线的捻度,降低织物的密度和单丝纤度。提高织物柔软性则需降低丝线纤度、单丝纤度和织物密度。