弹力紧身裤面料与服装形态

文章选用六种紧身裤面料进行面料性能的客观测试。通过紧身裤的试穿实验来完成面料服用性能的主观评价，在此基础上建立紧身裤面料性能与服装形态的关联，为紧身裤设计提供参考。     

睡衣面料舒适性能评价指标的因子分析

通过设计睡衣面料舒适性能影响因子的调查问卷,从问卷的信度和效度要求出发,并应用SPSS数理统计软件,在睡衣面料舒适性能物理评价指标的选择上,采用因子分析方法,提取对睡衣面料舒适性能影响贡献率较大的因子19个,为睡衣舒适性物理学评价指标的选择提供依据和参考.     

用模糊聚类分析法评价服装加工性能

运用模糊数学中的聚类分析方法，综合评价面料的服装加工性能，使这一完全凭主观经验的过程得以量化，从而能综合考虑面料在缝制加工过程中的各个影响因素。为面料的选择和分类提供了依据。     

波浪裙外观造型与面料性能的匹配关系研究

面料是实现裙装完美外观造型的基础条件,通过研究面料性能来指导裙装设计与生产意义重大。为此,以波浪裙款式为研究对象,通过主、客观手段研究了24种常见面料的相关性能,筛选出了17种波浪裙最佳面料;并以同一款式与规格制作了17条样裙。借助主观评价理论,完成了样裙的主观评价与数据分析,得到了波浪裙外观造型的综合评价结果及与面料力学性能之间的匹配关系,为优化波浪裙造型提供了一定的理论支持。     

竹原纤维交织女式夏装面料开发与风格评价

以竹原纤维和涤纶为原料,通过合理的织物组织规格、浆纱工艺、上机工艺设计,以及利用两者之间性能的互补性进行相应的风格整理,开发出了透气透湿性优良、保型较好的舒适性面料,通对对所织出的面料进行性能测试和风格评价,结果表明产品非常适合做女式休闲类夏装面料.     

吸湿排汗涤纶织物性能评价

采用新的液态水动态传递性能测定方法,对市场上的26种吸湿排汗面料进行评估,用聚类分析方法把吸湿排汗面料分为5类,消费者可以根据不同的要求选用某一类吸湿排汗面料.这里有73%的面料被分至吸湿排汗效果良好及以上的类别中.用分类方法比较不同截面异形纤维的吸湿排汗效果.     

女性紧身裤结构参数与样板优化设计的探讨

通过分析女下肢体特征及下肢体工学,指出常见紧身裤结构设计中,臀围松量、臀围与腰围前后差处理以及备细部结构数据的不合理性.探讨紧身裤的结构与样板优化设计,使紧身裤既能体现人体的曲线美,又不影响人们的活动与健康,并能与女下肢体达到吻合,符合下肢体运动功能,从而得到合理的、科学的紧身裤结构样板,为女紧身裤结构样板设计提供参考.     

基于优化RBF神经网络的丝织物缝纫性能客观评价

提出了一种基于优化RBF神经网络的丝织物缝纫性能客观评价系统.该系统根据丝织物面料的FAST力学指标与缝纫性能之间的关系,运用神经网络的方法进行面料缝纫性能评价和预测,并提出了一种基于模糊核聚类的优化径向基神经网络学习算法.实验表明,该系统对一般丝型织物的缝纫平整性能评价预测具有客观、快速和高效等优点.     

导湿干爽针织面料性能的综合评价

对典型针织运动面料的与导湿干爽相关的性能进行了测试,通过建立合理的评价方法,对其导湿干爽性能进行了系统全面的评价.     

羊毛防寒服面料性能要求及其织物设计方法

为了有效地提高羊毛防寒服面料的综合服用性能,采用实验法和分析归纳法,探讨羊毛防寒服面料的主要性能要求;并针对这些性能要求,分别对常用的不同种类的面料进行织物防钻毛性能、保温性能和透气性能实验．通过实验数据的对比分析,提出了改善羊毛防寒服面料性能的设计思路．结果表明,采用高紧度非涂层高支高密斜纹组织的织物设计方法是提高羊毛防寒服面料综合服用性能的有效途径．     

织物物理力学性能及其与风格关系研究的现状

织物的物理力学性能影响着织物风格的评价，并与穿用外观关联密切。研究并探讨它们之间的关联性，有助于指导织物生产者科学地设计和生产面料，有助于指导服装设计者合理地选择和使用面料。文章略述了织物风格研究的历史，回顾了织物物性的测试方法，并就织物风格研究的现状做了评述。     

Effect of Fabric Elongation on the Making Up of Pressure Garments

Pressure garments are widely used in Hong Kong andmany other countries for burn rehabilitation.Thesegarments are mainly made of elastic Lycra fabrics andtailor-made to individual patient's measurement toprovide an appropriate amount of skin-garment in-terface pressure for medical treatment.However,thefabric tension would be reduced due to fabric elonga-tion under prolonged period of stress,and thus theskin-garment interface pressure cannot be main-tained after repeated use of the garment.This paperaims to study the behaviour of fabric elongation of thefabrics commonly used for making pressure garmentsin U.K.and/or Hong Kong.Attempts to correct theexisting practice of drafting the pressure garments forproviding a more effective clinical treatment.     

＂Nonwoven＂ Versus ＂Engineered Fabric＂： the Impact These Terms Have on the 15- to 25-Year-Old Females＇ Intent to Purchase

Since the fall of 2004, textile and apparel students at a United States public university have been designing apparel with nonwoven fabrics. Over the last two years, the students' designs have sparked interest in the industry which has begun to create new and innovative fabric designs. The industry, however, still struggles over the best name for the fabric. This sparked the research question, "What impact 15- to 25-year-old's intent to purchase a garment?"Through a convenience sampling method, an online questionnaire was distributed to 15- to 25-year-old United States females. The questionnaire included questions regarding demographics and psychographics, and asked respondents to choose garments they would intend to purchase based on known attributes such as style, brand,price, place, and fabrication and fiber content. There were a total of 14 garments, seven tops and seven bottoms. Four of these garments, two tops and two bottoms were constructed of nonwoven fabrics.The respondents accepted the nonwoven fabrics when shown in garments in an online setting. This demonstrates that visually, these fabrics are comparable to traditional woven and knit fabrics. The "nonwoven" polyester and nylon blend fabric increased in popularity when the respondents were told the fabrication and fiber content.However, the "engineered" polyester and polyethylene blend fabric dropped to last place when fabrication and fiber content were known. This indicates that 15- to 25-year-old respondents do not understand or are not interested in fibers or fabrications described as "engineered fabric" with a polyester/polyethylene blend. More research will have to be done to determine if the fabrication term "engineered fabric"or if the polyester/polyethylene blend fiber content caused a lack of interest or decreased intent to purchase.Research has currently begun to determine the right combination of fiber content and fiber size to develop a nonwoven fabric with an acceptable hand for apparel fabrics.     

织物的膜理论

为了对织物膜结构和服装进行虚拟模拟，例如膜结构的张紧和褶皱以及服装的悬垂和屈曲，建立了编织物的膜理论．编织物的细观编织结构被引入了膜理论，织物的经线和纬线被选为曲线坐标轴，未变形的纱线作为Lagrangian坐标轴，变了形的纱线作为Eulerian坐标轴．在变形中考虑经线和纱线之间夹角．该理论被用于织物膜的张紧分析．数值结果表明，当应变e12达0．06时，由于纱线夹角的改变导致的应力增加占总应力的25％左右．     

An Experimental Study of Aspect Ratio on the Tensile Properties of an Elastic Fabric for Making-up of Pressure Garments

The“cut-and-sewn” pressure garments are normally tailored made in various sizes according to the size of human body as well as the area of burn wounds.When a tubular pressure garment is cut in different length and width measurements,different aspect ratio will be occurred on the elastic fabric for making up the pressuregarment. Many therapists in Hong Kong concerned the change of aspect ratio may affect the tensile properties of the elastic fabric and ultimately will affect the skin-and-garment interface pressure for the patient.The aim of     

A STUDY OF SEAM STRENGTH AND EXTENSIBILITY FOR PRESSURE GARMENTS

Pressure garments are functional garments designed for medical purposes and arc normally used under prolonged stress. The stress across seams is related to the size of the wearer and the fit and the garment, the more close fitting a garment, the greater stress is put on the seam. Since pressure garments are subjected to appreciable stress during wear, seams with the required strength and extensiblity are particular important. The seam type, stitch type, stitch density and thread strength are the main factors determining the strength and extensibility of a seam. In this paper, investigation of seam strength and extensibility are made on four types of seams which have been used for making pressure garments. Five different types of stitch densities and two sizes of sewing thread are used on each type of scam to be tested. The seaming conditions of the selected fabric are also examined.     

A Study of Interface Pressure at the Seamed Area of Pressure Garments

Pressure garments constructed with elastic fabric play an important role in burn rehabilitation by helping to prevent or reduce the formation of hypertrophic scars. For clinical effectiveness, these garments are made in appropriate size for individual patient in order to provide an appropriate amount of skin-and-garment interface pressure on the patient.The seam area of pressure garments has marked impact on the comfort and durability of the pressure garments.Comments from the patients and occupational therapists have indicated that discomfort arose in the seam zone.Line marks appeared on the skin of patients under the seamed areas of pressure garments. This may be caused by uneven or Iocalised interface pressure at the seamed area. In this paper, the changes of interface pressure between the seamed and unseamed areas were investigated. The aim is to provide an understanding of the effect of seams on the interface pressure in order to assist the therapists and/or garment makers to choose an appropriate s     

机织物悬垂屈曲的数值模拟

开发虚拟服装试衣系统需模拟织物的悬垂和屈曲，而采用正交异性力学模型不适合织物．为此，笔者基于织物的细观力学模型，用有限元方法来模拟方形织物片铺在圆桌面上的悬垂和屈曲，该细观模型描述了织物由于其细观编织结构而特有的力学性质．织物片用8结点壳单元离散，这种壳单元被特别设计，能描述织物片在悬垂中发生的大转动．对织物片的屈曲模态进行了分析，对其后屈曲变形进行了计算，也进行了方形织物片的悬垂和屈曲实验．模拟结果和实验的观测结果很一致．该研究为虚拟服装试衣系统的开发奠定了基础．     

服装穿着模拟立体效果的实现方法

用自行研制开发的织物CAD软件进行了织物设计及模拟,并用图像处理方法对该织物进行了服装穿着仿真,使织物设计到服装穿着仿真成为一个有机的整体,为纺织厂能够从服装的穿着效果来决策织物的设计和生产提供了实用的依据。     

织物悬垂性理论及测试方法研究综述

对近几十年来在织物悬垂性理论研究和测试方法研究方面所取得的成果作了详细的总结和分析,并对目前已有的织物悬垂测试仪作了介绍、分析和比较;对悬垂性研究领域的最新动向作了预测.