Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

Environmental Friendly Route and Wool Shrink Proofing

The shrink proofing on wool with treatment of protease named Argaenzyme STL was studied. The various pretreating auxiliaries, different parameters for protease treating process and the effect of stabilizer were discussed in detail. The varieties of some properties before and after protease treatment were also investigated.     

Enzymatic Treatment for Shrink-proofing of Wool

Introduction Duetothescalestructureandresiliencyproperties, woolhasatendencytoshrinkundertheinfluencesof moisture,detergentsandagitation.Nowadaysthemost commerciallysuccessfulshrink proofingprocedureistheIWS/CSIROchlorine Hercosetttopprocessasa combinationofsubtractiveandadditivemethods[1,2]. However,apartfromyellowingandresultingasynthetichandle,thisprocessproducesabsorbableorganichalogen compounds(AOX)[1,3],whichcauseseverepressureon environmentallegislation[4,5].Forecologicaland econ…     

Enzymatic Treatment of Wool

Three proteases were applied to treatments of wool. The shrinkage, dyeing behavior, some physical and mechanical properties of treated wool were studied. Peroxymonosulfate(PMS) and lipase were used to pretreat wool before the treatment of it by protease. The results show that the shrink resistance of wool fabric is not obtained when it is treated only by the protease, but it is remarkably improved when the wool fabric is treated first by PMS or a lipase afterwards by protease. The rate of dyeing is increased when the wool is treated by protease or combination of oxidant/ lipase and protease. Whiteness, luster and softness of treated wool are improved, while the strength and elasticity are reduced.     

羊毛防毡缩处理工艺的探讨

采用氧化一树脂法对羊毛进行防缩处理，以天然生物材料壳聚糖作为防缩树脂，对比了不同预氧化条件下的防缩效果，选择了最佳的防缩处理条件，对处理后羊毛的毡缩性和强度等指标进行了测定，结果表明，用壳聚糖作为羊毛防缩树脂，必须先进行预氧化才能达到满意的防缩效果，氧化处理采用次氯酸钠和高锰酸钾混合液处理的效果较好，并可降低次氯酸钠的用量。     

羊毛生物酶细化改性工艺研究

采用双氧水预处理并结合蛋白酶—脂肪酶工艺细化羊毛纤维。通过正交试验分别确定了羊毛双氧水预处理的条件和蛋白酶—脂肪酶处理工艺条件,并进行了生物酶细化处理羊毛的对比试验。结果表明采用双氧水预处理并蛋白酶-脂肪酶细化处理羊毛后,羊毛纤维鳞片层受到一定程度的破坏,纤维的直径降低约2.3μm,断裂强力保持率达到94.8%。     

Low Temperature Dyeing and Shrinkage-Resistance Finishing of Wool by Composition of Salt-Ammonia and Enzyme Treatment

Wool top and knitted fabric were treated with ammonia in the presence of sodium chloride （salt-ammonia process）. The effectiveness of salt-ammonia process traditionally used as pretreatment for low temperature dyeing has been investigated for conferring shrink-resistance of wool. The pretreatmont of salt-ammonia process followed by enzymatic treatment has been proved that contribute to not only the enhancement of dyeing behavionr but also shrinkage-resistance in the present studies. A novel composition of salt-ammonia pretreatment, oxidized and reduced treatment as well as protease modification was recommended to achieve low temperature dyeing and shrinkage-resistance of wool. At the same time, the process conditions were optimized by orthogonal array and assessed by dye uptake rate, weight loss and area shrinkage. Laboratory experiments showed that the knitted fabric treated according to optimized conditions of the combined process, achieved not only improvement of dye abilities but also the strict requirement of machine-washable, representing a possible alternative to chlorination.     

PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF A NEW ANTIFELTING RESIN FOR WOOL FABRICS

In this paper,a new resin called Resin M for imparting antifelting properties to wool fabricshas been studied.Resin M may be used by aqueous oxidative/polymer technique.It is provedthat Oxidant A/Resin M treatment can satisfy the machine washable requirement formulated byI.W.S..Resin M is a good agent for antifelting treatment of wool fabrics with proper pretreatment.Oxidant A/Resin M treatment has little influence on dyeing and moisture adsorption properties ofwool fibers.The pilling resistance of the treated fabrics is higher than that of the untreated ones.The strength and the handle of the treated fabrics have little been changed.According to thescanning electron microscope observations,it is recommended that the polymer encapsulation ofindividual fiber also plays an important role in the felting resistance of the treated fabrics though itis well known that the shrink resistance of the treated fabrics is believed to be due to the binding offibers.     

异收缩长丝仿毛原料及其织物风格研究

以高收缩丝、微细旦POY丝、低弹丝(DTY)等差别化长丝为原料,加工成异收缩复合空变纱,对其纱线及仿毛织物进行了基本力学性能研究,对比纯毛织物得出:高收缩涤纶丝(单丝纤度为0.3tex左右)与POY皮芯复合空变加工成异收缩变形纱,其织物仿毛效果好;涤纶混色空变纱织物或与网络弹力丝进行交织的织物仿毛效果也较好。     

阳离子丝素助剂改性羊毛及改性纤维染色性能

用自制的阳离子改性丝素助剂整理羊毛纤维，研究整理工艺条件对羊毛纤维染色性能的影响．结果表明，改性的丝素助剂整理的羊毛纤维显著改善了对活性染料的染色性能，同时整理的羊毛织物防缩抗鹱性能提高．     

基于等离子体处理的羊毛织物易护理整理

基于等离子体处理的羊毛织物防缩抗皱整理.探求一种新的生产方法,即毛织物经等离子体处理后,其防缩性、抗皱性、防污性都有所提高,再经过整理剂整理,对毛织物损伤小,整理效果明显改善.     

Effects of Enzymatic Treatments with a Protease and a Total Crude Cellulase on the Handle and Prickle of a Viscose/Wool Blend Furnishing Fabric

Carefully controlled treatments with a protease and acellulase were used to improve the softness and reducethe subjectively perceived prickle of a coarse wool andviscose blend fabric. The activity towards wool of a non-specific endoprotease (Novolan L) was shown to bemuch greater in buffer containing a reducing agent (so-dium sulphite). The balance between protease and sodi-um sulphite concentrations was studied in order to reducethe amount of enzyme required.     

蛋白酶对毛织物的整理工艺

通过对各种试验条件的变化,我们得出了ＷＯ蛋白酶对毛织物后整理的最佳工艺条件。采用最佳工艺对毛织物实施生物整理之后,织物手感柔软丰满,色泽柔和、织纹清晰,提高了毛织物的悬垂性,织物的刺痒感得到大大改善,另外织物的毡缩性也得到大大改善,达到完全机可洗要求。     

电晕处理对毛织物表面性能的影响

对羊毛织物的表面进行了电晕处理，用XPS和SEM研究了处理前后纤维袁面化学结构及物理结构的变化，探讨羊毛的润湿性、表面静电性能和对植物染料染色性能的变化．结果表明，经电晕处理后，羊毛表面舍氧量增多，表面漫润性得到改善，增加了纤维表面的亲水性；此外，电晕处理导致鳞片表层胱氨酸的部分二硫键氧化断裂，改善了对植物染料黄连的染色性能，表现为上染速度提高，但上染率变化不大．     

Study on Bending of Woven Fabrics Using Linear Viscoelasticity Theory

The bending behavior of woven fabrics under low curva-ture conditions has been analyzed by linear viscoelastictheory.The fabric is assumed to behave viscoelasticallyand to be subjected to frictional restraints in bending de-formation.The frictional restraint is considered to beproportional to the curvature and can be described by africtional moment.A model has been constructed by astandard three-element solid model and a paralleledfrictional sliding element.The equations of the model fora cyclic curvature variation are derived.A set of param-eters of the equations for each fabric has been obtainedexperimentally.Predictions of the bending rigidity andhysteresis for wool,cashmere,wool/polyester blended,polyester and cotton fabrics are made,displaying verygood agreement with the experimental observations.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorabilitv of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments,the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment improved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

纤维混凝土构件在温缩荷载作用下的非线性随机有限元分析

为研究纤维对混凝土构件的抗温缩能力,利用Moelands-Reinhardt(M-R)软化本构关系,采用非线性随机有限元法,即Monte-Carlo法分别对素混凝土和纤维混凝土构件的温降收缩过程进行分析.分析结果表明:纤维的存在可提高混凝土抗拉极限状态温降值,掺加超细纤维对混凝土的增强效果不明显;超细纤维依靠其韧性提高了混凝土的抗拉极限温降值和构件薄弱区域的抗拉能力,减小了由材料性质不均而造成脆断的可能性,在整体上延缓了构件到达抗拉极限状态的过程.     

羊毛细化拉伸系统的作用分析

对羊毛细化罗拉拉伸系统的作用进行分析，建立了纤维拉伸倍数计算公式，得出纤维有效拉伸的条件，并通过实例验证了有关分析。     

羊毛拉伸细化及其效果

分析了有捻毛条拉伸过程中拉伸载荷的变化规律和纤维直径的变化，通过烘燥和沸水收缩率的测量，探讨了细化羊毛的定形效果，并借助扫描电镜照片，分析了细化羊毛的形态变化及其原因。