横机上编织添纱组织时垫纱角的选择

分析了横机上垫纱角的计算方法，介绍了编织添纱组织时垫纱应满足的条件，计算出１２Ｇ横机编织添纱组织时面子纱和地纱导纱孔的高度．     

改性羊毛/苎麻平行纺复合纱的开发

介绍了羊毛与苎麻的前处理改性工艺．采用平行纺的纺纱方法在空心锭花式捻线机上开发出了新型长丝包须条的单包与双包结构的羊毛／苎麻复合纱．此复合纱具有结构稳定、条干均匀、毛羽较少、风格独特等特点，为毛织物的轻薄化、凉爽化开辟了新途径．     

单面羊毛衫添纱织物编织的研究

分析了垫纱横角和垫纱纵角对羊毛针织绒线在织物中显现情况的影响规律，推导出了横机纱线断面轨迹方程，通过上机确定了编织毛盖棉织物时较理想的垫纱角度．     

长丝/短纤维复合纱捻度测试方法的探讨

提出用最大长度法测定长丝／短纤维复合纱的捻度，对两种羊毛、聚酯短纤维混合须条／聚酯长丝Sirofil纱的捻度进行了测试并同解捻法、一次退捻加捻法的试验结果进行了比较分析。结果表明：最大长度法捻度测试结果大于一次退捻加捻法而小于解捻法，与解捻法比较接近；一次退捻加捻法捻度试验结果明显偏低，不太适合于长丝／短纤维复合纱的捻度测试。     

添纱衬垫针织物的线圈几何结构性能

本文提出了舌针添纱衬垫针织物的线圈几何模型假设,并通过实验确定了在松弛状态下,全棉舌针添纱衬垫针织物的纵横向密度与面纱线圈长度和地纱线圈长度之间的两元线性回归方程。文中还对地面纱线圈长度、线圈长度比和纱线号数的影响分别进行了讨论。所得结果可用来预测和控制该类织物的潜在缩水率。     

旋翼导纱机构的设计原理

本文讨论了旋翼导纱机构两旋翼协调而连续工作问题,揭示出各主要结构参数间的内在联系,提出了确定旋翼最大工作半径的计算式。通过对旋翼导纱机构导纱运动的分析,提出了导纱板工作曲线形状的设计原理。     

开发羊绒细号纱针织产品的研究

为了开发细号羊绒纱针织产品，选用不同线密度的羊绒纱、棉纱、Ｔ／Ｃ混纺纱、涤纶低弹丝和丙纶长丝在单面圆形纬编机上进行了编织试验。作了上机对比及交织试验，测出了各纱线的强度、最大伸长率、对成圈机件的摩擦系数、最大喂纱张力、最小最大线圈长度。最大允许喂纱张力及最大最小线圈长度之差可综合评价线线的可编织性。羊绒纱的摩擦系数普遍较大，而其强度还不及棉纱的一半，最大允许喂纱张力仅为涤纶纱的１／５。羊绒纱的最小线圈长度为２．８～３．５ｍｍ，最大线圈长度能够测出，说明羊绒纱的可编织性较差。试验表明，用单面纬编机生产以羊绒为正面添纱、交织纱在织物反面的添纱组织，具有羊绒效果且服用性能良好。为了顺利地进行生产，对编织工艺、成圈过程中各阶段纱线的受力情况、上机工艺参数、机器选择和染色工艺等作了分析。     

机织间隔织物柱纱高度的确定

机织间隔织物的厚度由柱纱的高度决定.为了确定影响柱纱高度的因素,从几何结构角度出发,定义了影响机织间隔织物柱纱形态的5个结构参数,并建立了结构参数间的几何关系.通过将柱纱高度计算值同实测值的比较,发现计算值与实测值吻合得较好,证明所建立的柱纱结构参数间几何关系能够很好地反映实际情况.     

转杯纱、环锭纱及其针织物性能研究

系统地对普梳和精梳转杯纱、普梳和精梳环锭纱等4种纱线及其相应针织物的各种性能,尤其是力学性能进行了比较系统的测试分析,并对其中某些性能的差异显著性作出分析检验。     

三维编织锥体织物的减纱技术

研究了由大端直径开始编织三维锥体织物的减纱技术，包括列向、环向减锭减纱、减细纤维束减纱等多种减纱技术及其组合；分析比较了各种减纱技术对织物结构完整性、操作简便性、机械化编织等方面的影响。减细纤维束减纱技术是特殊的环向减锭技术，具有保持织物结构整体完整、工艺操作简便、纱锭运动可实现机械化等优点，但不同纱束直径纤维编织使织物单元结构构造变得复杂多变。     

Study on Misplating Problems of Composed of Wool and Lycra Plated Knitted Fabrics

By a great deal of experiments,the misplating problemsof plated knitted fabrics composed of wool and Lycra arediscussed and analyzed.The factors affecting the mis-plating problems on manually operated flat knitting ma-chine include the construction and adjustment of a plat-ing feeder,wool yarn count,feeding tension,takedowntension and the ground fabric structures.Some usefulresults can be derived from these works.     

酶复合整理改善羊毛织物的防缩性能

为解决单独用蛋白酶处理羊毛织物时防缩效果不明显且强力降低的问题,提出用碱性蛋白酶对羊毛织物进行处理,部分去除羊毛纤维的鳞片,在此基础上再用谷氨酰胺转胺酶对羊毛进行处理,实现羊毛纤维蛋白质分子之间的交联.扫描了整理前后羊毛织物的红外光谱图,这种酶复合整理工艺使得羊毛织物的防缩性能显著改善,而强力和伸长性能基本保持不变,从而更具应用价值.     

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Introduction Manypeopleexperienceapricklesensationwhentheywearsomewoolgarments.Itwaspreviouslythoughtthatthi pricklesensationmayhavebeentheresultofanallergyto wool.However,thestudyofGarnsworthyetalshowedtha theprickleevokedbywoolfabricwasnotderivedfroman allergytowool.Ratherthecauseoffabric evokedpricklewa themechanicalexcitationofskin painreceptorsfromthe coarsefiberendsprotrudingfromthefabricsurface[1].Thei studyalsoshowedthatinsomefabrics,fibersprotrudingfrom thesurface,whichwereabletosu…     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorabilitv of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments,the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment improved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Synthesis of Aminolaurylpyridinium Chloride as Antimicrobial Agent

4-amino-laurylpyridinium chloride (ALPC) was synthesized and employed in antimicrobial finishing of wool fabrics. The structures of the salt was fully characterized by using FTIR, 1 H-NMR and 13 C-NMR analysis. The effects of pH conditions of finishing baths, finishing time and temperature, and salt concentrations were investigated. ALPC could form ionic interactions with anionic groups on wool, which contribute to durable antimicrobial functions. The finished wool fabrics exhibited antimicrobial efficacy against Escherichia coli. The washing durability of antimicrobial functions on the finished wool fabrics was also studied.     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

起毛织物的CAD技术

毛织物起毛整理后外观会有很大变化，因此，用于毛织物设计的ＣＡＤ系统必需具有模拟起毛织物表面状态的功能。本文阐述起毛织物ＣＡＤ系统模拟起毛的原理和方法，分析了决定织物表面起毛状态的几个因素，提出了独特的模拟方法。介绍了织物起毛状态模拟中起毛．点位置决定、起毛纤维的颜色决定、起毛纤维的形状和长度决定、起毛纤维的方向控制、毛绒密度控制等关键问题的解决办法。用计算机图像模拟方法模拟了生产过程中起毛后整理对毛织物外观产生作用的全过程。     

基于粘弹性理论研究毛涤混纺织物折皱回复行为

根据标准的折皱回复测试实验对各种混纺比的毛涤织物进行了研究．基于纺织材料的粘弹性理论，把研究对象看成是具有内摩擦约束作用的粘弹性体，利用标准线性固体模型和滑块并联组成的模型分析了不同混纺比例的毛涤织物折痕回复性，并推导出折皱回复角的回复规律方程．实验证明，该模型能较好地反映毛涤织物折皱回复角的回复规律．