束纤维强伸性分析在毛条染色损伤中的应用

毛条染色是经常进行的加工过程,而染色会损伤纤维.及时地检测和给出这种损伤量,十分必要.采用束纤维强伸性测量方法(TENSOR),能快速准确地给出毛条染色前后的强度、伸长、断裂功的护伤.实验结果表明,国内毛条染色的强度损伤在6%～7%,伸长损伤在4%～5%,断裂功损伤在8%～10%.这反映出毛条染色加工中的原毛条质量的浪费.     

羊毛单纤维性质对束纤维强伸性的影响

对21种澳大利亚羊毛进行单纤维性质测量,其包括纤维的直径及其离散、纤维卷曲性质和纤维强伸性质.同时采用SIROLAN-TENSOR对此类羊毛做束纤维力学性质测量.通过实验结果的对比分析得到,单纤维强伸性与束纤维强伸性存在线性相关,纤维直径和卷曲也与束纤维强度和伸长有较好的相关.因此采用束纤维力学指标表征单纤维性质,在理论和实用上都是可行的.     

散毛染色损伤分析

本文对酸性媒介染料散毛染色前后的羊毛性能做了测试和分析,发现纤维受到严重损伤,表现为强力、伸长、膨松度大大降低。纤维损伤主要是以化学损伤、局部损伤、毡缩损伤3种形式出现的。为减少纤维损伤,提高染色毛的纺纱性能,进行了一些探讨。     

Relationships between the Tensile Properties and Tenacity-extension Behaviour of Fibre-bundles

Fibre bundle testing is different from single-fibre measurement, not only in testing methods and instruments, but in the results obtained. For wool fibres, Sirolan-TENSOR can supply fibre-bundle tenacity (BS) and bundle extension ( BE), but has some limitations on the analysis of the measured tensile curves of fibre bundles. It has not only raised new parameters, such as initial modulus (BM) and specific work of rupture (BW), as well as the specific work before or after the peak-point(WBP or WAP) and the ratios of WAP/WBP and WAP/BW, but also compared the tensile behaviour of different fibre-bundles, e.g. wool, polyester and viscose rayon fibre-bundles. The experimental results from 32 lots of wool tops show that there are correlations between bundle tensile properties, such as BS-BE, BS-BM, BS-BW, BE-BW and BM-BW. However, the variables of coefficients of variance (CV) are almost independent of each other and have no correlation with the average values of fibre bundle tensile parameters, except for BS-     

超声波处理对羊毛纤维性能的影响

以未处理、55℃超声波处理和沸水处理的羊毛纤维为研究对象,对比分析两种处理方法对纤维力学性能、表面形态、化学结构的影响,从纤维角度探讨超声波低温染色的机理.试验结果表明,经超声波处理后的羊毛,束纤维强度降低,油脂质量分数减少,纤维表面鳞片张角增大并产生不规则裂纹,部分二硫键断裂,纤维分子有序程度降低,因此,羊毛在染色过程中更易润湿,染料更易进入纤维内部并扩散.     

Analytical Algorithms for the Blend Ratios by Fibre-bundle Tensile Curves Part Ⅲ:The Definition Method and the Relationships between the Blend Ratio and Tensile Parameters Calculated from Different Ways

The algorithms of the strength, work, modulus and percentage methods have been introduced and discussed in Part Ⅰ and Part Ⅱ of the series papers. As the following, the percentage-function calculation and the frequency-function calculation of the definition method are defined and developed in detail. Meanwhile, the procedures to find the tensile parameters are analysed experimentally and involve "ED" being the average values of the corresponding tensile parameters of each bundle tensile curve measured; "EC" being the tensile parameters obtained from the averaged experimental tensile curve; and "TC" being the parameters of the theoretical tensile curve according to the corresponding nominal blend ratio. The theoretical and experimental results indicate that the blend ratio estimated by the definition method from wool/polyester blended fibre bundles has a high correlation with the actual blend ratio though the variables to be known in this method are the most of all the methods and there exist the difficulty to solve fibre bundle tensile behaviour without fibre broken in accuracy and that there are high correlations between the EC and TC data and the tensile parameters should be calculated using the EC method rather than the ED method with the exception of the bundle initial modulus. The relationships between blend ratios and the tensile properties of blended fibre bundles can be used to select the optimum blend ratio of blended tops or yarns.     

Low Temperature Dyeing and Shrinkage-Resistance Finishing of Wool by Composition of Salt-Ammonia and Enzyme Treatment

Wool top and knitted fabric were treated with ammonia in the presence of sodium chloride （salt-ammonia process）. The effectiveness of salt-ammonia process traditionally used as pretreatment for low temperature dyeing has been investigated for conferring shrink-resistance of wool. The pretreatmont of salt-ammonia process followed by enzymatic treatment has been proved that contribute to not only the enhancement of dyeing behavionr but also shrinkage-resistance in the present studies. A novel composition of salt-ammonia pretreatment, oxidized and reduced treatment as well as protease modification was recommended to achieve low temperature dyeing and shrinkage-resistance of wool. At the same time, the process conditions were optimized by orthogonal array and assessed by dye uptake rate, weight loss and area shrinkage. Laboratory experiments showed that the knitted fabric treated according to optimized conditions of the combined process, achieved not only improvement of dye abilities but also the strict requirement of machine-washable, representing a possible alternative to chlorination.     

四乙烯五胺交联染料在羊毛上的吸附及染色性能研究

吸附动力学和吸附热力学可以指导染色理论和染色工艺的建立.考察了pH、温度和时间对四乙烯五胺交联染料在羊毛纤维上吸附性能的影响,研究了四乙烯五胺交联染料的吸附动力学和吸附平衡模型.研究显示四乙烯五胺交联染料的染色pH在羊毛的等电点以上,染料吸附过程遵循准二级动力学方程,并且活化能为130.3kJ/mol,以化学吸附为主.染色温度的提高可以加快染色速率但降低了染料的平衡吸附量,吸附平衡为Langmuir型,吸附的各项热力学参数均为负值,说明吸附过程是自发放热的过程.另外,测定了染料的交联反应性能和各项色牢度,结果表明四乙烯五胺交联染料在羊毛纤维上可得到近100%的交联反应率和优良的色牢度.     

毛条细化拉伸过程的表征研究

利用自行设计的拉伸细化测量装置，实时测量了羊毛纤维条拉伸的力学行为，提取了表征纤维拉伸细化的特征参数，并在此基础上，讨论和分析了不同拉伸条件对纤维细化过程的影响．     

Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties Part Ⅱ: the Gauge Length and Elongation Speed in Wool Fibre Bundle Measurement

The testing conditions of a fibre bundle tensile tester (TENSOR) are elongation speed (ES), gauge length (GL), pretension, jaw pressure, environmental temperature and relative humidity, instrument linearity and sensitivity. The effects on fibre-bundle tensile properties at different GL and ES have been discussed in detail and compared with Peirce's theories on the weaklinks and the breaking time effect. The experimental results indicate that the tensile properties of fibre bundles are strongly affected by GL and vary with different GL. The reasonable GL should be 5-15mm rather than 3.2mm for wool bundle measurements. The ES ranging from 20mm/min to 40mm/min is beneficial for obtaining comparatively stable and accurate tensile values, whereas 20 mm/min used in current testing for wool fibre bundles is at the lower limit of the suggested range. For bundle modulus measurement, the sampling interval must be selected appropriately. The new calculation of the sampling interval has been established.     

Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties-Part Ⅱ: the Gauge Length and Elongation Speed in Wool Fibre Bundle Measurement

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电晕处理对毛织物表面性能的影响

对羊毛织物的表面进行了电晕处理，用XPS和SEM研究了处理前后纤维袁面化学结构及物理结构的变化，探讨羊毛的润湿性、表面静电性能和对植物染料染色性能的变化．结果表明，经电晕处理后，羊毛表面舍氧量增多，表面漫润性得到改善，增加了纤维表面的亲水性；此外，电晕处理导致鳞片表层胱氨酸的部分二硫键氧化断裂，改善了对植物染料黄连的染色性能，表现为上染速度提高，但上染率变化不大．     

Research on the Dyeing and Finishing Properties of Wool Treated with Chitosan

The dyeing and finishing properties of wool treated with chitosan were studied. It was shown that chitosan can be absorbed by wool in an acetic acid bath, both dyeing rate and equilibrium dye uptake of wool treated with chitosan increase in a wide pH range from strong acid to neutral conditions. This work also indicated that chitosan could be used to achieve feltproofing of wool.     

Effect of Stretching - Setting Treatment on Dyeing Behavior of Wool

Changes of dyeing behavior of wool after stretching -setting treatment are studied. Effects of stretching -setting on wool structure are analyzed. It is concluded that stretching - setting treatment not only reduces wool diameter and increases wool length, but also brings about low-temperature dyeing of wool.     

Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties Part Ⅰ: Sample Preparation, Bundle Mass and Fibre Alignment of Wool Bundles

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Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties Part Ⅰ: Sample Preparation, Bundle Mass and Fibre Alignment of Wool Bundles

Due to the effects of samples and testing conditions on fibre-bundle tensile behaviour, it is necessary to investigate the relationships between experimental factors and tensile properties for the fibre-bumdle tensile tester (TENSOR). The effects of bundle sample preparation, fibre bundle mass and fibre alignment have been tested. The experimental results indicated that (1) the low damage in combing and no free-end fibres in the cut bundle are most important for the sample preparation; (2) the reasonable bundle mass is 400- 700tex, but the tensile properties measured should bemodified with the bundle mass because a small amount of bundle mass causes the scatter results, while the larger is the bundle mass, the more difficult to comb fibres parallel and to clamp fibre evenly; and (3) the fibre irregular arrangement forms a slack bundle resulting in interaction between fibres, which will affect the reproducibility and accuracy of the tensile testing.     

羊毛的变性及变性羊毛阳离子染料染色

羊毛经阴离子型活性变性剂处理后，纤维侧基上被引入阴离子型基因，具有和腈纶纤维类似的结构。因而，变性羊毛能够用阳离子染料染色。增大变性剂的分子量、共轭双键数及相对疏水性，变性羊毛用阳离子染料染色时上染速率和上染率均可显著地增大，染色牢度也大为改善，但对酸性染料产生防染作用。从变性羊毛的红外吸收光谱图上可看到，在波数为１１５０～１２６０ｃｍ－１、１０１０～１０８０ｃｍ－１和６００—７００ｃｍ－１处均出现磺酸基的特征吸收峰。变性剂和羊毛间形成共价结合成为纤维侧基的一部分。变性羊毛表面的电性能有较大变化，但其物理机械性能如减溶解度、弹性、断裂强度等基本不受影响。     

Study on the Dyeing Behaviors of Low Temperature Glow Discharge Treated Wool

Wool tops was modified by low temperature glow discharge (LTGD). The inputted power, the treating time and the pressure or vacuum were found to play an important role. The wool tops were dyed with reactive dye under a constant dyeing temperature after plasma treatment. Then the dyeing behaviors were studied based on the data of uptake, fixation, dyeing rate and fixing rate. The results revealed the possibility of low temperature dyeing and the suitable parameter of LTGD treatment.     

超声波对超细羊毛纤维中性染料染色的影响

采用超声波处理对超细羊毛纤维进行不同深度的染色其影响不尽相同。研究表明,对于染料用量3 %(owf)以下的中浅色,染色前对纤维进行超声波处理,75 ℃染色可达到常规沸染的效果;而对于染料用量5 %(owf)的深色,超声波处理对染色有一定帮助,但作用与中浅色相比相差较多;超声波处理可以将染色温度降为85 ℃,减少纤维损伤,节约能源。     

超声波染色的实验研究

本课题研究了常温常压下超声波对全毛布料染色的作用.实验表明,与浸泡加机械搅拌染色方法相比,超声波明显优化了天然栀子黄色素染液对全毛布料的染色,达到了上色容易、匀染性好和不易褪色的效果.