苎麻织物表面性能的分析探讨

本文采用织物风格仪对苎麻织物表面性能进行测定,对不同织物的表面风格进行了比较;并着重就27.8tex纯苎麻纱捻度与织物表面风格进行了实验。结果表明,苎麻纱线捻度与织物表面的摩擦系数呈抛物线关系,捻度过大或过小都将影响织物的表面手感。在纱线捻度T=595～624捻/m范围内,织物在其经、纬向上的静、动摩擦系数均较小,手感光滑。     

棉织物紧度对其热湿舒适性能的影响

采用18.2tex纯棉纱线为原料,试织了6种不同紧度的织物,探讨了织物紧度对其热湿舒适性能的影响规律.研究结果表明,随着织物紧度的增加,织物的保暖性先减小后增大,透气性会迅速减小直至紧度增大到一定值后变化趋于平稳,吸湿和透湿性在紧度较小时较好.研究结果为设计开发新产品提供了理论依据.     

环锭纱和卡摩纱针织物性能实验比较

卡摩纱在纱线外观、纱线结构以及纱线物理性质方面,相对传统环锭纱有了很大的提高和改善。本文将11.7tex纯棉环锭纱和卡摩纱纺成的针织物做了织物密度、织物纬斜、织物顶破强力及织物起毛起球的试验,实验数据表明卡摩纱针织物的各项性能均优于环锭纱针织物,卡摩纱将在针织领域得到广泛应用。     

赛络菲尔精纺毛织物风格及聚类分析

以赛络菲尔纱线精纺毛织物为对象,应用扫描电子显微镜(SEM)观察织物表观形态结构,测试了织物风格(KES-FB型)、织物的服用性能(如织物动态悬垂性、织物的光泽、织物折皱弹性和织物透气性),并对织物进行了聚类分析.研究结果表明,赛络菲尔纱线精纺毛织物由于赛络菲尔纱线较紧密,织物交织点处有较大空隙,织物手感细腻、光滑.同时,赛络菲尔精纺毛织物平均摩擦系数(MIU)、弯曲刚度(B)、剪切变形角度5°剪切滞后量(2HG5)较小,摩擦系数的平均差不匀率(MMD)和表面粗糙度(SMD)较大,所以赛络菲尔精纺毛织物手感滑爽.织物样品聚类情况由主成份(F1和F2)做出分布图,并对22种织物样品进行了分类.     

棉/涤纶长丝Sirofil复合纱成纱工艺性能研究

以低弹涤纶长丝和精梳纯棉粗纱为原料,纺制不同捻度、不同喂入间距、不同长丝预张力的Sirofil复合纱,并测试了纱线的强力、条干和毛羽.通过正交试验分析方法,得到实验范围内棉/涤纶长丝Sirofil复合纱的优化纺纱工艺参数为捻系数321,长丝须条间距6mm,长丝张力片重量3g.     

碳纳米管/涤纶包缠纱的制备与性能

在自行设计与搭建的包缠纱可控制备装置上,以碳纳米管(CNT)纱线为皮纱和涤纶(PET)长丝为芯纱包缠后分别得到不同捻度的CNT/PET包缠纱,并对包缠纱的形态结构、拉伸性能、电学性能以及应变传感性能进行了系统表征和分析.结果表明,碳纳米管纱线与涤纶长丝包缠后,不同捻度的包缠纱结构紧密均匀;随着捻度的增加,包缠纱的断裂伸长和断裂强力逐渐上升,捻度为2 500捻/m时,包缠纱的断裂伸长和断裂强力分别提高为CNT纱线的5倍和10倍左右.同时,当捻度为1 000~1 400捻/m时,包缠纱具有双传感系数特征:在拉伸的初始阶段,传感系数较低,约为0.50;当拉伸应变高于23%以后,传感系数急速上升至1.57左右,与碳纳米管纱线的传感系数(1.69)相当.当捻度高于1 400捻/m时,包缠纱的传感性能出现明显的波动.     

绿色环保型针织服装的面料服用性能研究

对Tencel和Modal纯纺、混纺织物及其棉织物的弯曲刚度、悬垂性、起毛起球性、回潮率、透气性、透湿性、耐磨性能进行了测试与分析；并利用SPSS软件的聚类分析方法对试样的综合服用性能进行了分析。     

锦纶66包芯纱牛仔面料开发

使用锦纶66纤维开发高性能、高品质的牛仔面料,以粘胶为外包纤维,锦纶66或氨纶为芯丝制成36.4和28.0 tex的包芯纱为纬纱,使用剑杆织机使其与36.4和28.0 tex的纯棉纱线进行交织,制成牛仔面料。对锦纶66包芯纱和氨纶包芯纱所织制的6种牛仔面料进行色牢度、耐磨性、强力、弹性回复性、折皱回复性和弯曲性能等性能测试并进行对比分析,发现锦纶66包芯纱牛仔面料的弹性达到氨纶包芯纱牛仔面料的弹性水平,且其强力和柔软度更佳。以粘胶/锦纶66(3.33 tex/10 F)包芯纱织制面料比粘胶/锦纶66(3.33 tex/34 F)强力更大、弹性回复性更好,且更柔软。同时,采用36.4 tex纱线所织制的面料的强力、弹性和折皱回复性更好,但28.0 tex纱线所织制的面料更柔软。     

常规毛圈织物的服用舒适性能研究

毛圈组织是针织物组织中最常见的一种花色组织,其独有的毛圈特征,可形成具有良好舒适性能的针织物。实验以常规毛圈织物为对象,通过分析毛圈大小和毛圈密度这两个参数,研究其对毛圈织物服用舒适性能产生的影响。服用舒适性能测试,包括基本力学、耐磨性、透湿性、透气性和保暖性5个方面。实验结果表明,毛圈织物密度和大小对织物拉伸断裂强力、透湿性、耐磨性和保暖性有重要影响。     

夏季服用织物动态热湿舒适性的影响因素研究

利用自制的织物动态热湿性能测试仪测定了不同透气性和不同原料的夏季服用织物在皮肤干燥-出汗-蒸发-干燥的过程中的皮肤热损失、微气候区温湿度变化的情况,研究了影响夏季服用织物动态热湿舒适性的因素,指出在外界风速较大或织物的透气量较大时,汗液蒸发是通过紊流扩散进行,由于汗液的快速蒸发,可能使人体产生冷感,此时不同织物的微气候区温湿度差别很小,当外界风速小或织物的透气性小时,汗液的蒸发通过分子扩散进行,此时微气候区的湿度主要受织物吸湿能力的影响,吸湿能力较强时湿度低,纯涤织物在出汗后,由于微气候区湿度较高,将使人产生闷热感,在出汗结束后降温较多可能产生冷感,不宜作为夏季服用织物,纯毛织物因吸湿放热多在出汗初期升温较高,不利于散热,夏季以穿着纯棉、涤棉、毛涤混纺织物的服装为宜.     

Finishing Effect on Warmth Property of Cotton/Kapok Blended Knitted Fabric

Nowadays,more and more natural or functional fibers are being investigated due to their utilization in thermal underwear.Kapok fiber is one of the natural cellulosic fibers whose source is the kapok plant. It has hollow body and sealed tail,which exhibits desirable features required for functional textiles of this nature. In this study,cotton / kapok( 80 /20 by mass) blended yarn with two types of yarn size 18. 5 and 14. 8 tex,respectively are knitted into plain stitches. The fabrics are undergone with an optimal preparation plan according to orthogonal design. Then,after dyeing and softening,fabric properties including thermal and water-vapour resistances, wicking property, pilling behaviour, and surface morphology,are tested and scrutinized for their candidacy for thermal underwear. The results showed that cotton / kapok blended fabrics have good thermal resistance which is significantly higher than those of cotton / modal blended fabrics,and the same water vapour resistance compared with cotton / modal blended fabrics which are normally used as underwear. Cotton / modal blended knitted fabrics has better pilling grade than cotton / kapok blended fabrics. Meanwhile, the cotton / kapok blends fabrics have good wicking property. Collectively,it was concluded that cotton / kapok blended fabric was appropriate for thermal underwear. However,the main limitation of these fabrics is their pilling properties.     

纱线均匀度指标离散率及与织物外观质量的关系

本文根据离散率的定义,讨论了离散率的意义,由所假设的随机纱条的条件,推导了随机纱条的离散率公式和近似的计算式.并用18.2 tex(32°)普梳纯棉纱做了纱线均匀度与针织物和机织物外观质量之间的对照试验,且对实验结果进行了分析。     

凉爽棉针织产品开发初探

对强捻棉纱的可编性及产品的服用性能进行了探讨。强捻棉针织产品所表现出的服用性能体现出它具有凉爽特点。     

PBST/棉包芯纱的拉伸回复性能

通过对不同捻度和混纺比的PBST(聚丁二酸-共-对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯)与棉包芯纱拉伸回复性能的分析,探讨了捻度和混纺比对PBST包芯纱回弹性能的影响.在捻度相同、PBST纤维相同的条件下,PBST包芯纱的拉伸弹性回复性随着棉纤维的增加而减少;在纱线混纺比相同时、PBST包芯纱的拉伸弹性回复率随着捻度的增加呈先增后降的趋势.采用捻度为500捻/m和40/60的混纺比纺制PBST/棉包芯纱时,纱线的拉伸弹性回复性能较好,并且在小变形下,PBST包芯纱能保持良好的拉伸回复性.这对PBST包芯纱的开发和应用具有一定的参考价值.     

Study of Rotor Spun Basofil/Cotton Blended Yarn Quality Characteristics during Optimisation of Processing Parameters

Yarn quality characteristics are affected by processing parameters. A 36 tex rotor spun yarn of 50/50 Basofil/ cotton （B/C） blended yarn was spun, and the spinning process optimised for rotor speed, opening roller speed and twist factor. Selected yarn characteristics were studied during the optimization process. During the optimizations process yarn elongation and hairiness reduced with increase in rotor speed. Tenacity increased with increase of rotor speed. The increase in TF caused tenacity and CV of count to increase up to a peak and then started to decrease with further increase of TF.While TF caused an increase in yarn hairiness, elongation decreased to a minimum level and then started to increase with further increase of TF. CV of count and hairiness increased with increase in opening roller speed, but tenacity and elongation decreased with increase in opening roller speed. The optimization process yielded the optimum levels for rotor speed, opening roller speed and twist factor （TF） as 45,000 rpm, 6,500 rpm and 450 respectively. As per uster Standards the optimum yam showed good results for CV of count, CV of tenacity and thin places/km.     

麻赛尔/棉转杯纺纱工艺研究

以捻系数、分梳辊速度、转杯速度为试验因子,采用单因子实验和二次通用旋转组合设计法,研究麻赛尔/棉混纺纱线性能与工艺参数之间的关系,找出最佳工艺参数;并用最佳工艺参数纺制不同混纺比的麻赛尔/棉混纺纱,比较不同混纺比对纱线性能的影响.结果表明：随着捻系数、分梳辊速度、转杯速度的增加,成纱的断裂强力均呈现出先增加后下降的变化规律;随着麻赛尔纤维含量的增加,混纺纱线的断裂强力逐渐下降.     

Three-Dimension Parametric Simulation of Knitted Fabric Based on the Twisted Loop Model

To enhance the realistic simulation effect of knitted fabric, a new three-dimension （3D） twisted loop model was proposed. This model was constructed by using Non-uniform Rational B-Spline （NURBS） surface. The control points of this surface were generated through rotating the cross-section along the center path of yarn. The cross-section of yarn was generated based on the two-level hexagonal ~lose packing model. Both of the center path and the cross-section were fitted by NURBS. With this twisted loop model, 3D parametric simulation of knitted fabric was realized in 3DS MAX by utilizing MAXScript and analyzing the relationships between structure parameters （including the wale-spacing, the course-spacing, the yarn diameter, .and the fabric thickness） and geometric model. The simulation of knitted fabric has 3D realistic twist effect dearly. Furthermore, the structure parameters and the twist parameters of fabric can be modified interactively.     

高吸水仿麻织物的纱线设计

从麻织物风格及其吸水性能的要求出发，探讨利用涤纶中空纤维设计纱线号数、混纺比，捻度的方法、提出当设计纱号为32s、混纺比80／20，设计捻度100．763捻/10cm时纺制的纱线可较好地体现中空涤纶纤维吸水性能好的特点。     

Pre-drafting Multiple of Spandex for Spandex/cotton Core-spun Yarns

The factors that influence the properties of spandex/ cotton core-spun yarns are introduced. The pre-drafting multiple of spandex is an important parameter that influences the yarn properties such as elasticity, breaking force, breaking elongation and costs. The experiment with different pre-drafting multiple is designed. The effects of pre-drafting multiple on yarn properties are evaluated by fuzzy mathematical decision. 3.3 is the optimum pre-drafting multiple for 14.6tex + 40D spandex/cotton core-spun yarns. At this multiple, the spandex content is proper and the spandex core is less prone to breakage. The cotton fibers wrap spandex more closely and transfer more frequently between inside and outside.