酸雾处理对兔毛纤维及其制品性能的影响

本文主要研究兔毛纤维、纱线及针织成品经醋酸蒸汽处理后的性能变化,并探讨了不同处理条件对变性效果的影响。测试结果表明,控制适当的处理条件,可使纤维的鳞片形态和摩擦性质明显变化,纤维的加工工艺性能得到显著改善,而纤维的内在性能损伤甚小,且可望保持兔毛成品的特殊风格。     

Technology of the Chemical Softening Process of Goat Hair

Under certain conditions,goat hair can be softened bychemicals.After the process,the structure of the macro-molecules in the surfacial area has been changed,and thehair has become soft,crimped and elastic.Thus,hairthat can not be spun before the process can acquire agood spinnability.Woolen woven by processed hairs hasan unique style,of mohair blended fabrics.This articlemainly discusses the technology of the chemical softeningprocess of goat hair.     

织物的类型及其组织元

本文对历史上出现过的现在存在的各类织物提出了新的分类法、织物可分成编织物和机织的两大类,两类之中又可根据参与织造的纱线系统来分,然后再根据其交织原理区把编织物分成环编,纠编、绞编,烧编、斜编等若干种,把机织物分为针织和梭织两类,前者包括纬编和经编;后者则包括平经和绞经。文中还提出了组织元的概念,作为一类织物的基本构成单元,它较目前所用的原组织概念更为基础。     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

从兔毛织物的掉毛规律研究兔毛产品的加工及开发

用不同磨料对不同配比、不同捻度、不同组织密度、不同机织物组织、不同纺纱系统等制得的兔毛织物，进行模拟掉毛试验，探讨了各种条件下兔毛的掉毛规律．在兔毛产品开发上应注意配毛时兔毛及与其混纺原料的质量和品种，既可开发粗纺呢绒兔毛产品，也可开发精纺及半精纺兔毛产品，也可采用棉纺系统或毛棉混合系统进行加工。     

纯棉针织物的秦皮天然染料染色

以水为提取剂从中药秦皮中提取天然染料对纯棉针织物进行染色,研究不同媒染方式以及染料质量浓度、染浴pH值、染色温度及时间、媒染剂硫酸亚铁用量等后媒法染色工艺对纯棉针织物染色效果的影响.结果表明,后媒法染色效果最好,秦皮天然染料对纯棉针织物的后媒染染色最佳工艺为：秦皮天然染料质量浓度12g/L,染液pH 4,染色温度90℃,染色时间60min,媒染剂硫酸亚铁用量5g/L.织物经后媒染染色后得色均匀,各项色牢度较好.     

Study on the Properties of Newdal Blended Knitted Fabrics

The basic properties of the 3 knitted fabrics are measured with different instruments.Testing standards are tensile,break drape,wear resistance,pilling property and bending properties.By the analysis of the results,the following conclusions can be deduced: Among the 3 fabrics,the mechanical properties of the blended knitted fabrics Newdal /Polyester is the best.     

等离子体改性兔毛纤维的探讨

为了改善兔毛纤维的性能,采用等离子体对兔毛进行改性.介绍了等离子体改性兔毛纤维的基本原理,比较了改性前后兔毛纤维的表面形态结构、摩擦系数、卷曲度和上染百分率.结果表明:等离子体改性能减少兔毛织物掉毛并提高兔毛纤维的上染百分率.     

生物酶在羊毛织物防毡缩工艺中的应用

将蛋白酶和转移酶E2进行复配，应用于羊毛织物防缩整理，探索了最佳复配方案和工艺条件，经复合酶处理过的羊毛织物，其毡缩率可降低到1.26%，小于机可洗要求3％，应用扫描电镜观察了织物鳞片表层的破坏情况，进而了解酶作用的结果。     

Study on Anisotropy and Punching Yield Strength of Knitted Fabrics

In terms of the structural characteristics, knitted fabrics are described as plane orthotropic body with two symmetric axes, and the stress in different direction is approximately linear with strain before the yield point. The punching yield strength can be predicted theoretically by developing a mathematical equation from anisotropic effect of knitted fabrics. The experimental results demonstrate the applicability of theoretical formula. Analyses also reveal that the factors influencing three-dimensional deforming performance can be divided into two categories: fiber-yarn-fabric structural features and deforming condition.     

Analysis of the Thermohydro - comfort Durability for Microfil - polypropylene Knitted Fabric under Grey System

Thin microfll - polypropylene knitted fabric that is knitted to use new single plated theory on large diameter circular weft knitting machine is a new functional fabric. After military use, the reflective opinions are that it is light, thin, soft, smooth - touch, and it has excellent elasticity, good air perviousness, large water vapor permeability . In this paper, an analysis is held to use grey system theory, and the thermohydro - comfort durability of this microfil - polypropylene knitted fabric is compared with that of common knitted fabrics. The analytical result proves the microfil - polypropylene knitted fabric is satisfactory under the climatic conditions that human body needs to eliminate or retain the quantity of heat. It can be use to seam up not only physical ability training uniform of serviceman but also civil sporty and sportswear et cetera.     

低档兔毛纺纱工艺路线探索

低档兔毛纤维短,本文采用棉型纺纱系统,可以纺制18 tex以细的纱,这样有利于开发薄型产品。但纯兔毛纱强力较小,可用涤丝包芯方式采加固。产品经济实惠,适合内销市场需要。本文工艺采用短流程,基本上在棉纺设备上加以改装后纺制成纱。     

利用图像处理技术自动测量针织物密度的研究

采用FFT(快速傅立叶变换)时针织物进行图像处理，并利用提取的针织线圈的空间频率信息来测量针织物的密度。通过与人工测量的针织物纵横密度时比表明，该技术可以快速、准确的实现针织物密度的测量。     

绿色环保型针织服装的面料服用性能研究

对Tencel和Modal纯纺、混纺织物及其棉织物的弯曲刚度、悬垂性、起毛起球性、回潮率、透气性、透湿性、耐磨性能进行了测试与分析；并利用SPSS软件的聚类分析方法对试样的综合服用性能进行了分析。     

An Investigation on Water Transmission Through Two - layer Knitted Fabrics

The aim of this paper is to investigate water transmissionproperties of two-layer weft knitted fabrics and somerelated factors.The author prepared some experimentalfabrics with specific yarns and stitch densities,and mea-sured water vapor permeating rate through the fabricsand liquid water transferability from inner to outerlayer.Results show that the permeating rate is closelyrelated to porosity within fabric while the transferabilitydepends mainly upon the water absorbabilities of fiberson two layers and the degree or their difference.     

Physical Characteristics of Knitted Polyester Vascular Prostheses： Can the Wall Be Considered as a Scaffold for Tissue Regeneration？

Recent developments in endovascular surgery (EVAR) have opened new avenues to successfully treat aneurysms with percutaneous deployment of stent-grafts.Manufacturers have preferred to use woven fabrics or micro-porous tubes which are supported by metallic frames or stents.Woven fabrics are much thinner than knits and this permits the use of a smaller delivery catheter.However,since woven constructions are stiffer and have little porosity,the tissue ingrowth is poor or absent.On the other hand,knitted constructions can be considered as a scaffold for tissue ingrowth,and hence they represent an attractive alternative because of their open structure and better conformability in the case of balloon deployment.The present study was undertaken to analyze the properties of two knitted and crimped polyester arterial prototype prostheses,one with and the other without a gelatin coating as sealant.Two commercial controls were also included in the study,namely the uncoated knitted polyester vascular prosthesis VP1200K,and its sealed version,the gelatin coated polyester knitted Gelsoft device,manufactured by Vascutek Ltd.,Scotland,UK.In vitro testing consisted of analyzing the geometry and morphology of the yarn and fabric structures,and measuring the physical and mechanical properties of the grafts,including the water permeability,the longitudinal and radial compliance,and the suture retention strength.In order to compare the different properties of the four samples,tests were also performed on the gelatin coated or sealed devices before and after gelatin removal.The results provided a useful comparison between the prototypes and the commercial control devices.The latter used ten times the amount of gelatin which had been applied as a coating in order to achieve the same low level of impermeability to water.The different amounts of gelatin also explained the different mechanical performance,such as compliance,for these prototype and control prostheses.     

Studies of Stability in Electrical Property and Sensitivity of Polypyrrole Conductive Fabrics Used for Intelligent Flexible Sensors

Electrically conducting fabrics used as flexible sensors can be produced by vacuumed vapor deposition. The research of what impacts the wide and reliable application of the flexible sensors shows that the stability of flexible sensors is one of the critical issues. The electrical performance of weft knitted fabrics in course and wale direction does not show significant differences underdifferent ambient conditions,which include time,temperature,and relativehumidity. Tests of stimuli responding sensitivity of conductive fabrics indicate that the sensitivity keeps at a constant level and the average sensitivity is stable over 38 days.     

Finishing Effect on Warmth Property of Cotton/Kapok Blended Knitted Fabric

Nowadays,more and more natural or functional fibers are being investigated due to their utilization in thermal underwear.Kapok fiber is one of the natural cellulosic fibers whose source is the kapok plant. It has hollow body and sealed tail,which exhibits desirable features required for functional textiles of this nature. In this study,cotton / kapok( 80 /20 by mass) blended yarn with two types of yarn size 18. 5 and 14. 8 tex,respectively are knitted into plain stitches. The fabrics are undergone with an optimal preparation plan according to orthogonal design. Then,after dyeing and softening,fabric properties including thermal and water-vapour resistances, wicking property, pilling behaviour, and surface morphology,are tested and scrutinized for their candidacy for thermal underwear. The results showed that cotton / kapok blended fabrics have good thermal resistance which is significantly higher than those of cotton / modal blended fabrics,and the same water vapour resistance compared with cotton / modal blended fabrics which are normally used as underwear. Cotton / modal blended knitted fabrics has better pilling grade than cotton / kapok blended fabrics. Meanwhile, the cotton / kapok blends fabrics have good wicking property. Collectively,it was concluded that cotton / kapok blended fabric was appropriate for thermal underwear. However,the main limitation of these fabrics is their pilling properties.     

罗纹针织物延伸性与弹性的研究

分析了1+1,2+1,2+2和2+3四种罗纹针织物的结构和变形特征。报导了四种纯毛罗纹织物环状、横向定伸长重复拉伸试验结果。在分析试验结果基础上得出2+2和2+3罗纹比1+1和2+1罗纹具有更好的延伸性和弹性,而且随循环数增加,2+1、1+1罗纹的拉伸功、拉伸力和弹性比2+2、2+3罗纹下降得更快,使服装更早出现尺寸和形态的不稳定。本文还讨论了线圈长度对罗纹针织物延伸性和弹性的影响。     

条件平衡处理对针织物尺寸稳定性的影响分析

介绍了针织物的结构特征、编织工艺、性能特点和针织物的变形机理等内容,根据针织物尺寸稳定性影响因素确定条件平衡处理的实验方案,选取棉和羊毛两种纱线为原料,用针织横机编织,随后进行条件平衡处理,通过多次洗涤后的尺寸变化分析条件平衡处理对针织物尺寸稳定性能的影响。