Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

表面纤维直径与羊毛机织精纺面料的刺痒感

通过前臂试验对26种轻薄型羊毛机织精纺面料和7种其他纤维的轻薄型机织面料的刺痒感进行了比较研究,并用显微镜对部分轻薄型羊毛机织面料的表面纤维分布进行了研究。结果表明多数毛织物在温度为(24±1)℃、相对湿度为(65±5)％的条件下存在刺痒感,并且毛织物的刺痒感与其表面纤维的平面直径及直径大于26μm的表面纤维根数密切相关。     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

One-bath Dyeing of Polyester/Wool Blend with Disperse Dyes

The role of auxiliary LAB as vehicle in dyeing polyester/ wool blends with disperse dyes is described. Dye exhaustion and bonding on polyester/wool samples are studied under different experimental conditions - the LAB amount, the temperature and pH value - to achieve optimum conditions. The results are compared with those obtained with and without conventional dyeing auxiliary products. Although dye exhaustion is higher in the presence of commercial carriers, the dye bonded increases markedly in the presence of auxiliary LAB in both fibers. The role played by auxiliary LAB in polyester/wool blend dyeing can provide a new method for this process.     

Study on the Feltproof of Wool/Cocoon Stripping Blending Fabric

A new method is presented to prevent the wool fabric from shrinking effectively by using cocoon stripping blended with wool fiber. The sericin of cocoon stripping is used as resin to bond the wool fiber together after heat setting. The factors affecting the effect of shrinkproofing is heat setting temperature, wool/cocoon stripping blending ratio, cover factor, regain of fabric. Temperature of heat setting and the blending ratio of cocoon stripping are the two key factors. This method does not pollute the environment, and almost has no damage on wool fiber.     

织物手感客观评定方法的研究

设计了一套操作简单、经济、可靠的织物风格测试装置.该装置通过测量从一个圆柱形孔中抽取织物所需的抽取力来客观评定织物的手感,测得的抽取力与FAST仪的测试结果存在显著的相关性,能综合反映织物的单位重量、表观厚度、弯曲刚度、剪切刚度等物理性能.使用该装置能客观评定织物的厚重或轻盈、蓬松或坚实、柔软或刚硬等感观手感性能.     

Study on the Handle of Keratin Transgenic Cotton Fabric

IntroductionImprovingthebreedofcotton ,akindofprincipaltextilerawmaterial,withtransgenictechnology ,hasbeenemphasizedforaverylongtime .However,researchanddevelopmentontransgeniccottonallovertheworldaremainlyfocusedondisease resistantandinsect resistantproperties ,whiletheresearchonimprovingthequalityofcottonfiberwithtransgenictechnologyisseldomcarriedout[1] .Nowresearchershaveinoculatedthegeneofanimalkeratinintocottonfiberwithtransgenictechnologyandproducedthekeratintransgeniccotton ,inthehope…     

低温氧等离子体处理对羊毛织物性能的影响

为了改善羊毛织物的毡缩、润湿等性能,采用低温氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行改性处理.通过单因素实验,综合评价羊毛织物处理前后的性能变化情况,分析了羊毛织物性能变化与等离子体处理时间、功率和压强变化之间的相互关系;利用原子力显微镜表征了处理前后羊毛纤维鳞片结构的变化情况.实验结果表明,利用低温氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行改性处理,可以获得较好的防毡缩效果,并能改善织物的润湿性能.有效控制处理条件,织物的断裂强力和伸长率不但不会减小,反而可以得到一定程度的增强.     

凉爽毛麻复合纱产品开发

本文介绍了优质苎麻纤维与羊毛复合成纱的加工技术，对比检测了毛纱、麻纱、毛麻复合纱的条干、毛羽及强伸性能：开发了毛麻复合纱针织物，并测试了织物的导热性能。实验结果表明毛麻复合纱针织物导热性优于纯毛织物，由其所制成的衣服凉爽性更好。     

纤维分布和混纺比对毛涤混纺纱毛型感的影响

采用裁面分析了不同混纺比的毛涤混纺纱的毛型感，探讨了毛/涤混纺比与汉密尔顿指数、表面纤维混纺百分率及毛纤维有效覆盖率的关系，分析了不同混纺比的毛/涤混纺纱截面五等份圆环中的实际混纺比和填充紧密度。指出表层纤维混纺百分率是反映纱线毛型感的较为直观、方便、准确的指标，同时提出能保持毛涤混纺纱毛型感的较为合理的混纺比。     

羊毛纤维和黏胶长丝玻璃化转变的测试和应用

利用动态力学分析的温度扫描和湿度扫描试验测试了羊毛纤维和黏胶长丝的玻璃化转变,两种纤维在温度扫描试验中并没有表现出玻璃化转变行为,而在湿度扫描试验中存在玻璃化转变特有的特征.通过比较不同温度下的转变行为,初步探索了湿度及染色对黏胶长丝玻璃化转变的影响.     

可纺性和织物风格改善的等离子体处理及效果

等离子体处理是一清洁化、高效的加工形式，可以解决纤维成网、成纱过程中的可加工性，即可纺性；也可以对成形织物进行再处理，弥补织物手感和可及性缺陷，同时还可改善织物的色泽风格。实际加工实验证明：（1）对纤维或纤维条的处理，可提高纤维间的抱合力，有利于牵伸中纤维滑移的控制及改善纱条的均匀性；（2）对织物的处理，可使织物硬挺度和丰满度提高而变得有身骨；（3）还可使深色织物的颜色更为深厚、无呆滞反光。因此，纺织加工中的等离子体在线处理应为人们所关注。     

低温等离子体处理对羊毛织物性能的影响

采用空气低温等离子体对羊毛表面进行改性处理,探讨了等离子体处理对羊毛织物抗毡缩性、强力、白度、润湿性、染色性能等的影响.正交试验结果表明:等离子体处理羊毛织物的实验室最佳工艺为时间3min、压强50Pa、功率150W.经空气低温等离子体处理,羊毛织物的毡缩率和白度降低,而润湿性、强力和弱酸性普拉红B染色K/S值提高.单独经过空气等离子体处理的羊毛织物达不到"机可洗"的要求.     

利用图像处理技术测定丝/毛混纺比的方法初探——图像预处理技术的运用

探索用数字图像处理的方法测定丝/毛混纺比。这一部分主要介绍运用图像增强和形态滤波技术,对清晰度较差的图像进行预处理的过程。通过对原有的算法的改进,取得了较为满意的效果,并从中提取了反映纤维截面差别的常规特征指标。     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

Plasma Modification of Wool: The Effect of Plasma Gas on the Properties of the Wool Fabric

The wool fabrics were treated with low temperature plasma (LTP) using three different gases, namely (ⅰ) oxygen, (ⅱ) nitrogen and (ⅲ) 25％ hydrogen/75％ nitrogen gas mixture. After LTP treatment, the low stress mechanical properties, surface properties and thermal properties of the fabrics were investigated by kES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System) Instruments composing of KES-FBI for tensile and shear property measurement, KES-FB2 for pure bending measurement, kES-FB3 for compression measurement, KES-FB4 for surface friction and surface roughness measurement, and KES-F7 for thermal property measurement. The first four instruments were used for investigating the charaeterlstlc aspect related to fabrle hand while the last one was mainly for the fabric comfort. The properties of LTP treated fabrics under the effect of different gases were compared with the untreated fabric quantitatively.     

利用图像处理技术测定丝/毛混纺比的方法初探——特征参数的选择及模式识别

主要介绍了图像处理技术测定丝/毛混纺比时多种特征参数的选择及识别敏感度的分析,并利用多元分析方法对目标信号进行了识别和分类。     

Effect of Rating Scales and Test Parts of Body on the Evaluation Results of Fabric-evoked Prickle

IntroductionThe studies of Schneider and Holcombe[1]and Liet al .[2]demonstrated that s mooth and light-weightwool fabrics were able to enhance fabrics in the market-place the sensations of coolness when worn in war m andhumid environments due to wool s hygroscopicity . Thisis the principle underlying the development of “coolwool”.However ,someti mes wool products are complainedof prickle . In the study of Wang et al .[3],it was foundthat the main shortcoming in ter ms of comfort for light…     

纱线与织物风格的综合评价系统与表征方法研究——系统特征比较与基本参数确定

介绍了自行设计和研发的纱线与织物性能测量装置的系统特征和基本参数。实验研究表明该测量装置通过一次抽拔试样，可原位综合测量纱线或织物的质量、弯曲、摩擦、拉伸、松弛、压缩及剪切等力学性能，由此实现试样综合风格定量化的表征。     

Comparison of Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Light Weight Wool and Wool Blend Fabrics using the KES-F and FAST Instruments

This study compares the test results of the FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) with those of the KES - F (Kawabata Evaluation Systems for Fabrics) for a range of nineteen light weight wool and wool blend fabrics in terms of the low - stress mechanical properties of bending, shear, and tensile deformation. It is found that there are very significant correlations between the corresponding parameters for extensibility and shear rigidity obtained from the test results of the two systems. The correlation between the values of bending rigidity obtained from the two systems is only moderate. Furthermore, for the fabrics tested in this study, the values of bending rigidity, shear rigidity, and extensibility measured using the KES - F instruments are higher than those of the corresponding parameters measured using the FAST instruments. The linear regression equation is given for each pair of corresponding parameter.