现行羊毛防缩整理方法的评述

简明阐述了现行羊毛防缩整理方法及机制。分析比较了它们的优缺点。结果认为：树脂沉积法是我国羊毛防缩处理的最佳选择。     

改善羊毛织物蛋白酶防缩整理中的强力损失

通过对壳聚糖、蛋白酶不同处理浓度的比较实验,得出改善羊毛蛋白酶防毡缩整理中强力损失的可行性实验方案:双氧水→壳聚糖→蛋白酶整理工艺.实验结果表明,壳聚糖先于蛋白酶处理,可对羊毛起到一定的保护作用;再经适当的蛋白酶处理后,不但使羊毛具有一定的防毡缩性能,而且可使织物强力保持率达94.2%.     

羊毛织物抗菌防缩功能整理

应用常用杀菌剂六亚甲基双胍(PHMB)处理由过一硫酸氢钾复合盐和亚硫酸钠预处理的羊毛织物,研究整理后羊毛织物的防缩和抗菌性能.在浸轧和浸渍两种处理工艺中,预处理过的羊毛织物对PHMB的结合率(owf,相对织物质量百分比)分别高达4.6%和4.4%.这种抗菌处理使得羊毛织物具有高效的抗菌性能,几乎能够杀灭所有接种大肠杆菌.该抗菌能力也有耐洗性,经过相当于40～50次ISO5A重复洗涤后,PHMB处理过的羊毛织物对大肠杆菌的灭菌率仍高达93.3%(浸轧)和99.3%(浸渍).在扫描电镜下观察,发现PHMB能覆盖羊毛表面的磷片,从而产生防缩效果.PHMB含量(owf)为8%处理后的羊毛织物,经过相当于40～50次ISO5A重复洗涤,其面积毡缩率降低至8.4%(浸轧)和6.1%(浸渍).因此,PHMB的一步法处理使得羊毛织物同时具有了抗菌和防缩的双重性能.     

羊毛的蛋白酶/壳聚糖生物整理研究

讨了与壳聚糖处理相配合的蛋白酶品种和用量对羊毛毡缩性影响 ,测试了对羊毛纤维强度和染色性的影响 ,通过电镜照片观察羊毛纤维表面鳞片的变化情况。结果表明 ,蛋白酶的用量与品种有关 ,若用量控制适当 ,可使羊毛纤维在损伤较少的情况下达到较好的防毡缩效果 ;用蛋白酶 /壳聚糖处理后 ,可提高羊毛的上染率 ,降低染色温度。     

壳聚糖整理羊毛织物透湿性能研究

使用双氧水在超声波辅助条件下制备了不同分子质量的壳聚糖,用黏度法测定了分子量,并对羊毛织物进行整理.借助SEM、FTIR分析羊毛纤维表面形貌和结构,并测试了羊毛织物透湿性能.结果表明,借助柠檬酸的桥梁作用,壳聚糖和羊毛纤维发生了化学反应.当壳聚糖分子质量为5×104、质量分数为1%时处理羊毛织物,其透湿性能最好.     

等离子体/壳聚糖联合处理对羊毛防缩性能的影响

分别对羊毛织物在低温等离子体、壳聚糖和等离子体/壳聚糖条件下进行处理.分析了等离子体预处理的时间、功率和压强及壳聚糖工艺对羊毛织物性能的影响.通过等离子体/壳聚糖对羊毛联合整理,羊毛织物的防缩性能得到了很大的改善,其最佳工艺条件为:壳聚糖分子量20万,质量浓度1.0g/L,等离子体功率150W,压强25Pa,时间3min.此条件下羊毛织物的毡缩率为7.3%,白度54.2,断裂强力:经向673.2N,纬向272.7N.     

拒油防污防缩整理工艺研究

用中心旋转法设计了防皱整理剂RESIN BRT、拒油防污剂PM-492和氯化镁3个变量、5个水平的20个试验.通过分析试样的折皱回复角、释放甲醛量、撕破强力保留率的等值图,确定了较佳的拒油防污防缩整理工艺：防皱整理剂RESIN BRT 80～85 g/L,拒油防污剂PM-492 40 g/L,MgCl2.6H2O 12～13 g/L,整理液pH值4.2,二浸二轧,105～110℃下预烘3 min,165～170℃下焙烘2 min.整理后衬布的拒水拒油性能达到120分,水洗尺寸变化率为-0.7%,热熔衬布释放甲醛量小于40 mg/kg,折皱回复角大于270°,衬布的质量符合优等品的要求.     

拒油防污防缩整理工艺研究

用中心旋转法设计了防皱整理剂RESIN BRT、拒油防污剂PM-492和氯化镁3个变量、5个水平的20个试验.通过分析试样的折皱回复角、释放甲醛量、撕破强力保留率的等值图,确定了较佳的拒油防污防缩整理工艺：防皱整理剂RESIN BRT 80～85 g/L,拒油防污剂PM-492 40 g/L,MgCl2.6H2O 12...     

基于等离子体处理的羊毛织物易护理整理

基于等离子体处理的羊毛织物防缩抗皱整理.探求一种新的生产方法,即毛织物经等离子体处理后,其防缩性、抗皱性、防污性都有所提高,再经过整理剂整理,对毛织物损伤小,整理效果明显改善.     

纯毛手编绒线防缩整理工艺的探讨

探讨了利用防缩整理剂ＢａｓｏｌａｎＤＣ和阳离子聚合物ＰｏｌｙｍｅｒＧ对纯毛手编绒线进行防缩整理的主要工艺条件．此工艺在实际生产中简便、易行．     

生物酶在羊毛织物防毡缩工艺中的应用

将蛋白酶和转移酶E2进行复配，应用于羊毛织物防缩整理，探索了最佳复配方案和工艺条件，经复合酶处理过的羊毛织物，其毡缩率可降低到1.26%，小于机可洗要求3％，应用扫描电镜观察了织物鳞片表层的破坏情况，进而了解酶作用的结果。     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

提高洗净毛白度的加酶洗毛工艺

实验研究表明，残留于净毛表面的蛋白质污染物对洗净毛白度有显著影响．本文根据蛋白质污染物的化学特性，提出了加酶洗毛可有效地去除蛋白质污染物，提高洗净毛白度；同时还探讨了酶浓度、温度和助剂等对洗涤效果的影响．     

毛织物中防虫蛀整理剂残留量的GC/MS测定

将织物试样采用1∶1丙酮－正己烷混合溶剂充分浸渍后进行超声提取，提取液经Celite层析柱净化，40℃旋转蒸发浓缩、定容，由色－质联用仪测定试样中的DCB、Naphthalene、PCP及Parmethrin含量。本方法适合毛织物中防虫柱整理剂、防霉剂和及驱虫制剂残留的定性定量分析，方法对目标化合物的检测限量（LOQs）在0．1－0．5mg/kg之范围内，平均回收率介于89．2％－96．4％之间，相对标准偏差为2．3％－8．1％。     

Comparison of Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Light Weight Wool and Wool Blend Fabrics using the KES-F and FAST Instruments

This study compares the test results of the FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) with those of the KES - F (Kawabata Evaluation Systems for Fabrics) for a range of nineteen light weight wool and wool blend fabrics in terms of the low - stress mechanical properties of bending, shear, and tensile deformation. It is found that there are very significant correlations between the corresponding parameters for extensibility and shear rigidity obtained from the test results of the two systems. The correlation between the values of bending rigidity obtained from the two systems is only moderate. Furthermore, for the fabrics tested in this study, the values of bending rigidity, shear rigidity, and extensibility measured using the KES - F instruments are higher than those of the corresponding parameters measured using the FAST instruments. The linear regression equation is given for each pair of corresponding parameter.     

表面纤维直径与羊毛机织精纺面料的刺痒感

通过前臂试验对26种轻薄型羊毛机织精纺面料和7种其他纤维的轻薄型机织面料的刺痒感进行了比较研究,并用显微镜对部分轻薄型羊毛机织面料的表面纤维分布进行了研究。结果表明多数毛织物在温度为(24±1)℃、相对湿度为(65±5)％的条件下存在刺痒感,并且毛织物的刺痒感与其表面纤维的平面直径及直径大于26μm的表面纤维根数密切相关。     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorabilitv of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments,the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment improved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Influence of the Process Conditions on the Formation of AOX Compounds during Wool Chlorine Pretreatment

Chlorination occurred simultaneously with oxidationwhen wool was treated by chlorine-containing reagents.The adsorbable organic halogens(AOX) compounds were produced by the chlorination of amino acid residues,especially tyrosine residue. The factors that might influence the reaction of dichloroisocyanuric acid (DCCA) with tyrosine residue were discussed. Higher temperature, appropriate pH value and lower concentration of chloride ion are favorable to decrease the percentage of chlorination. Determination of optimum process conditions would be helpful to control AOX compounds formation during wool chlorine pretreatment.     

Influence of the Process Conditions on the Formation df AOX Compounds during Wool Chlorine Pretreatment

Chlorination occurred simultaneously with oxidation when wool was treated by chlorine-containing reagents. The adsorbable organic halogens( AOX) compounds were produced by the chlorination of amino acid residues, especially tyrosine residue. The factors that might influence the reaction of dichloroisocyanuric acid (DCCA) with tyrosine residue were discussed. Higher temperature, appropriate pH value and lower concentration of chloride ion are favorable to decrease the percentage of chlorination. Determination of optimum process conditions would be helpful to control AOX compounds formation during wool chlorine pretreatment.