异收缩网络变形纱沸水缩率及其影响因素研究

为提高化纤仿真产品的档次,采用低温牵伸工艺,经网络变形得到一种沸水缩率为35％左右的新型变形纱,该纱具有高蓬松、高收缩的特点,是仿真织物的理想原料;同时探讨了纺纱工艺参数——热板温度、芯丝拉伸倍数、纱线捻度、网络度等与变形纱沸水缩率间的关系。     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

A New Catalyst in the Crease Recovery Finishing of Silk Fabrics with Epoxide

IntroductionSilk, among natural and synthetic fibers, is one of themost favored textile materials because of its excellent wearcomfort and elegant appearance. Because of theseproperties, it is regarded as a luxury material. Silk has acombination of many desirable properties. Unfortunately,its major weakness, a very low wet resiliency, causesconsiderable inconvenience in the use of silk textiles. Sincethe beginning of 1970 s, much research has been carriedout, ma…     

PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF A NEW ANTIFELTING RESIN FOR WOOL FABRICS

In this paper,a new resin called Resin M for imparting antifelting properties to wool fabricshas been studied.Resin M may be used by aqueous oxidative/polymer technique.It is provedthat Oxidant A/Resin M treatment can satisfy the machine washable requirement formulated byI.W.S..Resin M is a good agent for antifelting treatment of wool fabrics with proper pretreatment.Oxidant A/Resin M treatment has little influence on dyeing and moisture adsorption properties ofwool fibers.The pilling resistance of the treated fabrics is higher than that of the untreated ones.The strength and the handle of the treated fabrics have little been changed.According to thescanning electron microscope observations,it is recommended that the polymer encapsulation ofindividual fiber also plays an important role in the felting resistance of the treated fabrics though itis well known that the shrink resistance of the treated fabrics is believed to be due to the binding offibers.     

染色真丝织物的柠檬酸防皱整理

分别采用柠檬酸、2D树脂、柠檬酸／三乙醇胺整理真丝织物，分析了它们对真丝织物折皱回复角、染色牢度、服用性能及色差值的影响程度，同时分析了添加剂三乙醇胺的作用．结果表明，三乙醇胺能增加织物对阴离子染料的亲和力，明显改善整理织物的变色；可以提高真丝织物的湿折皱回复角，真丝织物的强力损失也得到降低．     

The Effect of TDEA on Dyeability of Both Cotton and Silk

Effects of the non - alcohol finishing agent TDEA on dye-ing properties of cotton and silk fabrics were examined. TDEA improving substantivity and having a fixation ac-tion on cotton fabrics dyeing with reactive dyes and sharp increasing dry and wet crease recovery angles of cotton have been demonstrated. The slightly lower color yields and duller in shade on the TDEA finished silk fabrics dyeing with some acid dyes have been indicated.     

运用高收缩涤纶长丝开发机织物新品种

高收缩涤纶纤维在国内已研制成功,在国外运用极广,用量很大。本文探讨由物理法制得的高收缩涤纶长丝在机织物中的应用。讨论了纱线结构、织物组织、高收缩纤维含量、收缩率与织物密度的关系等问题。提出了仿制绉纱类轻薄丝织物、凹凸织物和中厚型仿毛织物的方法。     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

Research and Application of the Mathematic Model for the Washing Shrinkage of Woven Fabric

Having analyzed the relationships between washing shrinkage and weaving technique, parameters, material properties of woven fabrics and studied the shrinkage mechanism and its mathematical model of the plain fabric,researchers set up a shrinkage model of the twills and satins and proposed a method for calculating the washing shrinkage based on weaving technique and parameters of fabrics. Shrinkage experiments of silk habotai, silk twill and silk satin fabrics were performed. The results were compared with those of the theoretical computations, and it has been proven that the theoretical method is reliable.     

基于粘弹性理论研究毛涤混纺织物折皱回复行为

根据标准的折皱回复测试实验对各种混纺比的毛涤织物进行了研究．基于纺织材料的粘弹性理论，把研究对象看成是具有内摩擦约束作用的粘弹性体，利用标准线性固体模型和滑块并联组成的模型分析了不同混纺比例的毛涤织物折痕回复性，并推导出折皱回复角的回复规律方程．实验证明，该模型能较好地反映毛涤织物折皱回复角的回复规律．     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

生物酶在羊毛织物防毡缩工艺中的应用

将蛋白酶和转移酶E2进行复配，应用于羊毛织物防缩整理，探索了最佳复配方案和工艺条件，经复合酶处理过的羊毛织物，其毡缩率可降低到1.26%，小于机可洗要求3％，应用扫描电镜观察了织物鳞片表层的破坏情况，进而了解酶作用的结果。     

Ultrasonic assisted dyeing：Dyeing of wool fabrics as Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour. a natural dye

The use of Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.in the dyeing of leather and silk have been some 2000 years in China as the natural coloration.Power ultrasound has been explored in the textile coloration.This article aimed at researching the ultrasonic efficiency for dyeing wool fabric with Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour.dye in comparison with conventional heating.We get a significant improvement in the color strength values(K/S) at the same condition.The fastness and extent properties of the fabrics treated by ultrasonic were better than those obtained when treated by conventional heating.     

Application of Acid Dyestuffs with Different Molecule Structure in Combined Dyeing and Finishing of Cotton Fabric

Simultaneous dyeing and durable press finishing of cotton fabrics with acid dyes bearing the different molecule structure and durable press finishing agent （DP agent abbr. ） based on modified DMDHEU were investigated by using the pad-dry-cure process. Some factors affecting the process, such as structure of acid dyes, DP agent, catalysts and curing temperature were discussed. The dyed and finished fabrics were evaluated with respect to color strength, fixation, crease recovery angle, breaking strength and fastness properties. The results indicate that structure of acid dyes has a striking effect on the color strength of dyed and finished cotton fabric. The color strength and dry crease recovery angle of dyed and finished cotton fabric increases, whereas breaking strength decreases with increasing concentration of DP agent. It is necessary for ammonium nitrate to serve as catalyst. It is found that relatively satisfactory properties of dyed and finished cotton fabric can be obtained with appropriate adjustment of treating conditions.     

Fabrication of cotton nano-powder and its textile application

A combination of chemical and mechanical treatment of cotton produced cotton powder （fibrils） with a mean diameter of 97 nm is analyzed by Laser Particle Size Analyzer. Transmission Electron Micro- scope （TEM） study showed that the diameter of the fibrils was about 10--30 nm and the length was from 70nm to over 400 nm. The powder was then coated onto fabrics （100% polyester fabric, 100% wool fabric and 100% cotton fabric）. Scanning Electron Microscope （SEM） study showed that cotton fibrils were adhered to the surface of treated fabrics （fibers）. The ultraviolet protection factor （UPF） value （AS/NZS 4399： 1996） for cotton fabrics increased about 20% after the treatment. This implies that the treated samples give a better protection from UV light. The moisture management test （MMT） of the fabrics such as wetting time at bottom, top maximum absorption rate, bottom maximum absorption rate, bottom maximum wetted radius and bottom spreading speed, et ah, showed that there were significant changes after the treatment. These changes gave better moisture management ability to the treated fabrics and thus made the fabric more comfortable. However, Wide-angle X-ray Diffraction and Fourie Transform Infrared Spectroscopy analysis proved that supermolecular structure and chemical struc- ture of treated fabrics were the same as the original fabrics. Other properties of the treated fabric such as thermal conductivity, wrinkle recovery, hand, et al., did not change. This implied that the basic func- tion of the treated fabrics for the clothing industry was the same as untreated fabrics. This study is a foundation for further researches on textile application.     

织物缩水规律的研究

为了提高产品质量，掌握织物售后使用的缩水情况，本文对纯棉织物、纯化纤织物和纯毛织物各三种在同一方法下进行缩水试验，测定历次水洗后经纬向的缩水率，求得总缩水率与水洗次数的关系。结果表明各类织物的总缩水率与洗涤次数的关系。结果表明各类织物的总缩水率与洗涤次数的关系为分式线性函数。通过试验还初步探讨了洗涤溶液、洗涤温度、经纬密度及织缩对总缩水率的影响。     

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Introduction Manypeopleexperienceapricklesensationwhentheywearsomewoolgarments.Itwaspreviouslythoughtthatthi pricklesensationmayhavebeentheresultofanallergyto wool.However,thestudyofGarnsworthyetalshowedtha theprickleevokedbywoolfabricwasnotderivedfroman allergytowool.Ratherthecauseoffabric evokedpricklewa themechanicalexcitationofskin painreceptorsfromthe coarsefiberendsprotrudingfromthefabricsurface[1].Thei studyalsoshowedthatinsomefabrics,fibersprotrudingfrom thesurface,whichwereabletosu…     

Enzymatic Treatment of Wool

Three proteases were applied to treatments of wool. The shrinkage, dyeing behavior, some physical and mechanical properties of treated wool were studied. Peroxymonosulfate(PMS) and lipase were used to pretreat wool before the treatment of it by protease. The results show that the shrink resistance of wool fabric is not obtained when it is treated only by the protease, but it is remarkably improved when the wool fabric is treated first by PMS or a lipase afterwards by protease. The rate of dyeing is increased when the wool is treated by protease or combination of oxidant/ lipase and protease. Whiteness, luster and softness of treated wool are improved, while the strength and elasticity are reduced.     

大豆蛋白纤维织物热湿舒适性能研究

通过时大豆蛋白纤维织物及类似风格的棉、毛、丝织物的导热性、保暖性、冷感性、透湿性、输水性、润湿性及透气性的测试分析，建立了时大豆蛋白纤维织物热湿传递性能的较全面的认识；并利用灰色聚类分析评价系统时前述4类织物的热湿舒适性能做了综合评价。     

Strength Distribution Analysis of Typical Staple Fibers

IntroductionThe mechanical properties of yarns are deter mined bytheir constituent fibers.Consequently,the strength offibers is an i mportant property in deter mining the finalquality of all textile products.Generally,it is al ways truethat the higher the strength of fibers,the higher thestrength of yarns and fabrics.However,because of the variation of fiber strength,the fibers within a yarn will not break at the same ti meunder a tensile load.In fact,break will take place at theweakest fiber…