波浪在近岸水域传播变形特性研究

波浪传播到近岸水域会发生浅水变形。为研究波浪在实际地形中的传播变形规律,本文根据特马港物理模型试验实测资料,采用MIKE 21之BW模型计算结果与之验证,结果吻合良好。在此基础上研究了波浪在近岸水域传播过程中总波高和内部锁相长波波高的沿程变化规律,以及波长、水位、有效波高、摩阻等对近岸波浪传播变形的影响。得出结论如下：不同波长的波浪在浅水中均发生明显浅水变形,波长、水位、摩阻均对浅水变形有显著影响；浅水中波浪之间非线性作用显著,内部锁相长波波高明显增加,且波长、波高、水位均对其影响较大。

Study of Wave Propagation and Deformation Characteristics in Offshore Waters

Wave deformation occurs when waves travel to coastal shallow waters. Based on the observed data of physical model test about port TEMA, the MIKE 21 BW model was applied to study wave deformation law in actual terrain, and the results agreed well. Then the variation law with distance of wave height of wave groups and phase-locked long wave in wave group was studied when waves propagate in coastal shallow waters, and the influence of wave length, water level, significant wave height, and bottom friction on wave deformation was also analyzed. The following conclusions can be drawn: The wave deformation is quite obvious when waves with different wave length travel in shallow water, and wave length, water level and bottom friction have significant influence on it. Nonlinear interaction between waves in shallow water is prominent, and there is an augment of wave height of phase-locked long wave in wave group, which related to wave length, significant wave height and water level.