蒸呢定型对精纺毛织物尺寸稳定性的影响

精纺毛织物的尺寸稳定性不仅影响到服装加工,而且关系到成衣形状的稳定性。作者就普通蒸呢和罐蒸与尺寸稳定性(松弛收缩、吸湿膨胀)和织物风格的关系进行研究,对织物的吸湿膨胀机理作了探讨。实验结果表明:蒸前织物的剩余应力愈大,蒸后松弛收缩率愈大,KES测试中的EMT指标愈小;经普蒸织物的吸湿膨胀率明显小于罐蒸织物的吸湿膨胀率,而纤维的吸湿膨胀率却相反,经普蒸后织物单元截面内纱线充满度亦较小;吸湿膨胀率与织物内摩擦损耗成线性关系等。可以认为,毛织物整理以小张力上机加工为宜,高档毛织物采用普蒸定型为佳;织物组织结构是影响织物吸湿膨胀的主要因素。

INFLUENCE OF BLOWING AND DECATING ON DIMENSIONAL STABILITY OF WORSTED SUITING WOOL FABRICS

The physicomechanical properties(KES-FB data)of fabrics after open blowing and decating finishings, and the dimensional stability of the fabrics produced were studied, The latter was remarkably affected by its relaxation shrinkage (RS)and hygral expansion (HE) natures. Conclusions are as follows: The greater the inter-stress induced to fabrics in the prior processings, the greater RS while the less EMT of the fabrics after blowing and decating. But HE of fabrics set with blowing was much smaller than with decating. However, the hygral expansion of fibres taken from the fabrics was of the opposite situation. Blowing brought about lower fibre compactness within fabrics, and HE of fabrics was linear correlated with its loss of inter-friction. Consequently, the major factor which affected HE of the finished fabrics might be the stereo geometric parameters of the fabric resulted. It is probably better to apply less tension when the fabrics were finished and to use open blowing for the high quality fabrics.