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Study on the Relation between Garment Style and Ease Distribution
作者姓名:王朝晖  张渭源
作者单位:nstitute of Textiles and Clothing,Hong Kong Polytechnic University,Hong Kong,Institute of Fashion Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051
摘    要:IntroductionGarment pattern design is a 3 D to 2 D surfacemapping process. Traditionally, thegarmentpattern designcan be classified as “Drafting Method” and “DrapingMethod”.“Drafting”is a direct drawing of the garmentpattern using known body measurements from themannequin. Since this method does not requiremanipulation in the 3 D space, it is called“flat patterntechnique”. All flatpattern design masters approximate thegarment pattern using …


Study on the Relation between Garment Style and Ease Distribution
WANG Zhao-hui,Edward Newton,Roger Ng,ZHANG Wei-yuan.Study on the Relation between Garment Style and Ease Distribution[J].Journal of Donghua University,2004,21(6).
Authors:WANG Zhao-hui  Edward Newton  Roger Ng  ZHANG Wei-yuan
Institution:1. Institute of Textiles and Clothing,Hong Kong Polytechnic University,Hong Kong
2. Institute of Fashion Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051
Abstract:The shape of body and the ease of garment are the important elements in constructing garment style. However, the distribution of ease in garment is uneven and the curves showing different cross-sections of garment style with ease are unavailable in the literature. This information is crucial when the three-dimensional garment style is transformed into two-dimensional garment patterns. Thus, several different X-line style garments are produced by 3D draping technology, and the cubic spline is used to fit the cross sectional curves of BL, WL of body and garment. By comparing cross sections of body and garment, the ease at different location can be derived. Besides, garments in 10 different dimensions and quantities of style ease are included in the current study. By numerical operation on discrete ease data at different location, the fitted functions of ease distribution are obtained.
Keywords:draping  flat pattern design  eases allowance  ease distribution  curve fitting
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