波浪Boussinesq方程与缓坡方程的比较

分析、比较了近岸浅水波浪传播变形的Boussinesq方程和缓坡方程的形式与特点，建立了包含底摩擦能耗效应、波浪破碎效应和子网格效应的Boussinesq方程波浪数学模型，并介绍了处理动边界问题的窄缝法以及处理消波边界的海绵层技术．采用经验非线性色散关系，结合含非线性项的缓坡方程，得到考虑非线性作用影响的缓坡方程模型．用物理试验结果对两种模型进行验证，并用相关性分析方法对两模型的计算精度进行了分析与说明．

Comparisons of Boussinesq equation with mild-slope equation

The forms and characteristics of the Boussinesq equation and the mild-slope equation for study of wave transformation in near-shore shallow water were compared. The Boussinesq wave mathematical model, reflecting the energy consumption effect of bottom friction, the effect of wave breaking, and the effect of subgrid turbulent mixing, was established, and the slot technique to deal with moving boundary and the sponge layer to deal with absorbing boundary were introduced. In combination with the mild-slope equation with nonlinear term, a mild-slope equation model with nonlinear effect taken into account was obtained based on empirical nonlinear dispersion relation. The two models were verified with physical experiments, and their precision was analyzed with the correlation analysis method.