二维数值造波水槽不规则波之数值研究

利用边界元素法所建立数值造波水槽探讨不规则波浪之造波与传递问题，以Lagrange法描述水粒子之运动并利用前进差分处理时间项之微分项。水槽一端为活塞推拉式造波板，运动方式以Mitsuyasu-Bretschneider之波谱造波，另一侧设有一段消波区以减少计算结果受波浪反射之影响。水面上选定若干个测点量取水位变化之历时，利用波谱分析水面上各测点之波谱并与原入射波波谱比较来探讨本模式之准确性。

Numerical Study on a Two Dimensional Numerical Wave Tank with Its Application in the Generation and Propagation of Irregual Waves

Modeling of the generation and their subsequent propagation of irregular waves in a numerical wave tank are considered. The waves was generated by a piston-type wave generator with a spectrum of Mitsuyasu-Bretschneider type. An absorbing beach is employed at the other end of the flume to minimize reflections. A number of wave gauges were placed in pre-selected locations along the tank to monitor the developments. Satisfactory results can be obtained by comparing the spectra of these measuring stations with the target.