波浪剩余动量流垂向分布研究

将垂向考察区域分为波谷以下部分、波谷至平均水面部分以及平均水面以上部分,应用线性波理论,分段推求波浪剩余动量流沿水深分布函数.建立任意波向角时波浪剩余动量流各分量的计算表达式,给出深水及浅水条件下的渐近表达式,探研波浪剩余动量流的垂向分布情况.取波向角为30°分别计算深水、过渡水深及浅水条件下波浪剩余动量流的垂向分布.结果表明:波浪剩余动量流各分量沿水深并非均匀分布,而且各分量分布情况不尽相同;从波面到海底,存在反向变化的现象;浅水条件下,波谷以下部分所占比例相当可观.计算成果与实测资料和研究分析结果是一致的.

Vertical Distribution of Wave-induced Excess Momentum Fluxes

By use of the linear wave theory,the vertical distribution of the wave-induced excess momentum fluxes is developed.The development is carried out separately for regions above the mean water level,between the wave trough and the mean water level,and below the wave trough.The computational expressions are presented of the vertical distribution of the wave-induced excess momentum fluxes at the arbitrary wave angle and of their asymptotic forms for deep and shallow water.The vertical distribution is calculated of the wave-induced excess momentum fluxes at various water depths.Results indicate that the distribution of the wave-induced excess momentum fluxes over depth is non-uniform and the contributions of the component below the wave trough to the total momentum fluxes become considerable in shallow water.Conclusions are in conformity with the available experimental or analytical results.