开发羊绒细号纱针织产品的研究

为了开发细号羊绒纱针织产品，选用不同线密度的羊绒纱、棉纱、Ｔ／Ｃ混纺纱、涤纶低弹丝和丙纶长丝在单面圆形纬编机上进行了编织试验。作了上机对比及交织试验，测出了各纱线的强度、最大伸长率、对成圈机件的摩擦系数、最大喂纱张力、最小最大线圈长度。最大允许喂纱张力及最大最小线圈长度之差可综合评价线线的可编织性。羊绒纱的摩擦系数普遍较大，而其强度还不及棉纱的一半，最大允许喂纱张力仅为涤纶纱的１／５。羊绒纱的最小线圈长度为２．８～３．５ｍｍ，最大线圈长度能够测出，说明羊绒纱的可编织性较差。试验表明，用单面纬编机生产以羊绒为正面添纱、交织纱在织物反面的添纱组织，具有羊绒效果且服用性能良好。为了顺利地进行生产，对编织工艺、成圈过程中各阶段纱线的受力情况、上机工艺参数、机器选择和染色工艺等作了分析。

Development on the Kintted Fabric of Fine Cashmere Yarn

In order to develop cashmere products,kintting tests were done on a single circular Kintting machine with some kinds of cashmere yarns, cotton yarns and T/C blended yarn etc. By comparing and analysing the knitting tests, their strength, maximum elongation, friction coefficient to machine parts, maximum feeding tention , maximum and minimum loop length were measured.It was pointed out that the maximum permission feeding tension and the difference between the maximum and minimum loop length could comprehensively evaluate their kinttability. Cashmere yarn has a larger friction coefficient and lower strength, and its minimum loop length is only about 2. 8-3. 5 mm, so it has a poor kinttability. The knitting technology, force applied to yarns at each loop formation stage,machine selection and dyeing technology were amalysed too.