中国古代织花技艺与织机发展的研究

纺织品的织花技术与织机、织具的进步,是衡量纺织品种生产和科技发展水平的重要标志。本文主要依据历年和近期的出土纺织品实物和图象(画象石和绘画等),结合丰富的记载文献资料,进行系统的综合分析与归纳,阐明中国古代纺织品织花技艺与工具机械的发生与进展历程。中国古代纹织物织花技术与工具机械的概略发展过程有下列几个阶段:(1)原始时代的编织和挑花机具;(2)商代绮织造的纹综杆式踞织机;(3)周、汉代经锦织造的多综多蹑机和束综提花机的创制;(4)唐代以后纬线显花技术和束综提花机的全面发展。

A STUDY ON DEVELOPMENTS OF TECHNIQUES AND LOOMS FOR PATTERN WEAVINGIN ANCIENT CHINA

The progress of techniques and looms for pattern weaving of figured fabrics is an important mark to judge the developing level of textile assortment production and technology. In this paper,based on analyses and induction of textile relics unearthed recently and over the years and figures (on ancient carved stones and painting works) in accordance with the extensive literature, the origin and developing stages of the techniques and looms (instruments) of pattern weaving of ancient Chinese fabrics were expounded. The main developing stages of the progress of the pattern weaving technology and looms (instruments) for ancient Chinese figured fabrics are as follows: 1) braiding and hand figure making instruments in original age, 2) primitive looms with pattern weaving heald rods for making Qi (twill figures on plain ground) in Shang Dynasty, 3) multi-heald-treadle looms and early type draw looms for making warp figured brocades in Zhou to Han Dynasties, 4) weft figured technology and overall developments of draw looms since Tang Dynasty.