福建东山湾海浪现场观测的统计特征

为分析福建省南部港湾──东山湾的波浪特征,采用S4型压力式方向波浪仪观测获取现场一个月的风浪过程资料,对其进行了统计分析和频谱分析,给出了波高和周期分布,特征波要素与频谱关系,结果表明:实测波高分布与瑞利分布基本相符;波浪谱的显著部分在狭窄的频率内,对应3、5、6、7级风谱峰密度值(m2s)分别为0.084 3、0.372 8、0.941 8、1.837 7,随着风速的增加,谱能也显著地增加,谱曲线下面的总面积增大,谱的显著部分波及的频率范围也扩大,且谱的显著部分沿低频率的方向推移,对应风浪的波高及周期范围增大.

The Field Observations and Statistical Characteristics of Waves in Dongshan Bay

The wave spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. In this paer,the wave data observed in Dongshan bay in Fujian province by S4ADW Wave and Current Meter for a month used to analyze the characteristics of waves. The distribution of the wave height and the wave period,as well as the relationship between the characteristics wave parameters and the frequency spec- trum are analyzed. The results show that the distribution of the wave height match the Rayleigh distribution and the important parts of the wave spectrum are in the narrow range of the frequency. The densities of wave spectrum in different wind speed are given in the paper,which in level 3,level 5,level 6,level 7 wind speed are 0. 084 3 m^2s,0. 372 8 m^2s,0. 941 8 m^2s,1. 8377 m^2s,respeetively. The energy of wave spectrum,the total area under the curve of wave spectrum,the corresponding range of wave frequency and the corresponding wave height increase with the variation of the velocity of wind. These results provide the observation and estimation of wave spectrum with guarantee and good quality.