Review on the Development of Western and Eastern Garment Pattern Design Technique

Due to different cultural and historical background, the technology in Western and Eastern pattern design is inherently different. Along with the development of technology, garment pattern design technique is making progress towards high effectiveness and accuracy. Many researchers proposed different alternative methodologies to improve the current pattern making processes. This article examines the development of Western and Eastern garment pattern design technique. The main objective of this article is to provide a thorough review and hence a better understanding to those researchers who made contribution on developing pattern design technique and continue their work in the future.     

Design Pattern Mining Using Graph Matching

The identification of design pattern instances is important for program understanding and software maintenance. Aiming at the mining of design patterns in existing systems, this paper proposes a subgraph isomorphism approach to discover several design patterns in a legacy system at a time. The attributed relational graph is used to describe design patterns and legacy systems. The sub-graph isomorphism approach consists of decomposition and composition process. During the decomposition process, graphs corresponding to the design patterns are decom-posed into subgraphs, some of which are graphs corresponding to the elemental design patterns. The composition process tries to get sub-graph isomorphism of the matched graph if sub-graph isomorphism of each subgraph is obtained. Due to the common structures between design patterns, the proposed approach can reduce the matching times of entities and relations. Compared with the existing methods, the proposed algorithm is not linearly dependent on the number of design pattern graphs.     

Unsteady cooperative flow type in the axial compressor

For increasing the performance of the axial compressor, a method for realizing unsteady cooperative flow type is proposed in this paper as a critical objective in the new generation of the axial compressor design system. Unsteady excitations were utilized to trigger the transformation from the unsteady natural flow pattern into the unsteady cooperative flow pattern, resulting in increment of aerodynamic performances of axial compressor. Numerical simulations show that distinct positive effect can be obtained for the 2D cascade in a wide range of subsonic working conditions. No positive effect can be observed under the 2D supersonic working conditions and unsteady excitations have little influence on the flow field space-time structure. However, positive effect can be obtained under the 3D trans-sonic working conditions. In addition, engineering applications of unsteady cooperative flow type are discussed.     

3 D structure parameterization design and modeling for irregular structure of stope bottom

Stope mining design is a very important and complicated task in daily production design and technical management of an underground mine.Based on workface technology and human-computer interaction technology, this study introduces a method of 3D parametric design for the irregular struc-ture of stope bottoms, and focuses on solving technical problems in surface modeling of stope bottom structure.Optimization of the minimum span length algorithm ( MSLA) and the shortest path search algorithm ( SPSA) is conducted to solve the problem of contour-line based instant modeling of stope bottom structures, which makes possible the 3D parametric design for irregular structure of stope bot-tom.Implementation process and relevant methods of the proposed algorithms are also presented. Feasibility and reliability of the proposed modeling method are testified in a case study.In practice, the proposed 3D parameterization design method for irregular structure stope bottom proves to be very helpful to precise 3D parametric design.This method is capable of contributing to improved efficien-cy and precision of stope design, and is worthy of promotion.     

Multi-pattern matching algorithm with wildcards based on bit-parallelism

Multi-pattern matching with wildcards is a problem of finding the occurrence of all patterns in a pattern set{p~1,---,p~k}in a given text t. If the percentage of wildcards in pattern set is not high,this problem can be solved using finite automata. We introduce a multi-pattern matching algorithm with a fixed number of wildcards to overcome the high percentage of the occurrence of wildcards in patterns. In our proposed method,patterns are matched as bit patterns using a sliding window approach. The window is a bit window that slides along the given text,matching against stored bit patterns. Matching process is executed using bit wise operations. The experimental results demonstrate that the percentage of wildcard occurrence does not affect the proposed algorithm's performance and the proposed algorithm is more efficient than the algorithms based on the fast Fourier transform. The proposed algorithm is simple to implement and runs efficiently in O(n+d(n/σ)(m/w))time,where n is text length,d is symbol distribution over k patterns,m is pattern length,and σ is alphabet size.     

Detection of Design Fault in Dart Placement - intersecting Dart

It is easy to apply lines in design drawings to create different styles, however, there is no guarantee that all the style lines drawn are able to be manufactured. In this paper, we focus on one undeliverable style to enhance our understanding of the relationship between the design sketch and the pattern design process. In order to evidence that such style is unworkable, a systematic display of pattern development, and to be reinforced by mathematical evaluation, will be introduced and addressed. When one can easily detect design fault, waste of product development time can be minimized.     

Expert System for 3D Collar Intelligent Design

A method to set up 3D collar prototype is developed in this paper by using the technique of cubic spline and bicubic surface patch. Then the relationship between the parameters of 3D collar prototype and different collar styles are studied. Based on the relationship, we can develop some algorithmsof transferring style requirements to the parameters value of the collar prototype, and obtain some generation rules for the design of 3D collar style. As such, the knowledge base can be constructed, and the intelligent design system of 3D collar style is built. Using the system, various 3D collar styles can be designed automatically to satisfy various style requirements.     

Research on Garment Pattern Intelligent Design System

This article discusses the disadvantages of current computer aided garment design system first, and then brings forward the frame of intelligent garment design system. Based on the analysis of the structure of the intelligent system, it is pointed out that the intelligent pattern design system is the most important module of the whole system. The use of an expert system to realize the intelligent pattern design system is then proposed and the key technique of the system is discussed at last.     

Study on the Application of Turndown Collar Pattern

The relation between lining collar and face collar in the collar pattern designed by experiments and theoretical calculation is elucidated. In spite of the same constructions, the collar's shape and the fabric's thickness influence on the pattern of lining collar and the face collar, especially on the back center of the lining and the two collar angles. The thicker the fabric, the more, with a proportional relation, the total variation. It is supposed that this work has made some contribution to the collar pattern design.     

Ease Allowance Distributed Features of Different Garment Styles

To investigate the effect of fashion style on ease distributed features in different body parts and orientations,three female shirts with the same size specifications but different silhouettes were designed.Seven female participants whose body shape were similar to Chinese garment size standard were scanned by three dimensional human body scanner both with and without experimental shirts.The ease distribution of three shirts was measured and analyzed by using Geomagic Qualify software.The results show that ease distribution of most body parts can be influenced by garment styles except the upper back and chest.Ease allowances are not evenly distributed in different orientations of body parts,and it tends to be lager at lateral body than at medial.This knowledge can be applied in pattern design for better fitness.     

中韩两国青年女性着装意愿与行为比较

以中国江苏省和韩国首尔地区20~25岁青年女性为调查对象,采用问卷调查方式,就中韩两国青年女性对服装造型及不同款式搭配、适体性与长短款变化等款式形态偏爱程度和着装习惯等进行了调查.使用SPSS17.0统计软件,运用描述分析、均值比较、相关分析等统计方法,对中韩两国青年女性着装意愿和着装行为等进行了分析比较.研究结果表明,韩国女性对于紧身凸显体型和身体暴露面积大的服装偏爱度高于中国,中韩两国女性对于宽松型服装的穿着频率都高,这些结论为中韩两国服装行业的产品设计和贸易提供了较有价值的参考信息.     

浅谈杂技表演服装的设计艺术

杂技服装设计从属于舞台美术设计艺术,与时装设计不同的是其本身具有特殊设计方法和理念.本文主要是在杂技服装的设计艺术创作中,根据不同的主题以及演员的表现形式,进行舞台美术艺术设计的第二次创作,做到形体与服装紧密的结合,创造舞台美术的视觉冲击力和美感.     

A STUDY OF SEAM STRENGTH AND EXTENSIBILITY FOR PRESSURE GARMENTS

Pressure garments are functional garments designed for medical purposes and arc normally used under prolonged stress. The stress across seams is related to the size of the wearer and the fit and the garment, the more close fitting a garment, the greater stress is put on the seam. Since pressure garments are subjected to appreciable stress during wear, seams with the required strength and extensiblity are particular important. The seam type, stitch type, stitch density and thread strength are the main factors determining the strength and extensibility of a seam. In this paper, investigation of seam strength and extensibility are made on four types of seams which have been used for making pressure garments. Five different types of stitch densities and two sizes of sewing thread are used on each type of scam to be tested. The seaming conditions of the selected fabric are also examined.     

Effect of Fabric Elongation on the Making Up of Pressure Garments

Pressure garments are widely used in Hong Kong andmany other countries for burn rehabilitation.Thesegarments are mainly made of elastic Lycra fabrics andtailor-made to individual patient's measurement toprovide an appropriate amount of skin-garment in-terface pressure for medical treatment.However,thefabric tension would be reduced due to fabric elonga-tion under prolonged period of stress,and thus theskin-garment interface pressure cannot be main-tained after repeated use of the garment.This paperaims to study the behaviour of fabric elongation of thefabrics commonly used for making pressure garmentsin U.K.and/or Hong Kong.Attempts to correct theexisting practice of drafting the pressure garments forproviding a more effective clinical treatment.     

影响青年女性服装衣袖结构的人体参数研究

使用三维人体扫描技术采集了与服装衣袖结构设计相关的人体数据，应用SPSS软件对这些数据进行主成分分析、因子分析、相关分析和回归分析等一系列的数据分析，发现了人体各部位间潜在的关系，并得出了一系列影响青年女性服装衣袖结构设计的人体参数的回归方程，为紧身合体式女装衣袖结构设计提供了合理可行的相关人体部位的数据参考。     

An Experimental Study of Aspect Ratio on the Tensile Properties of an Elastic Fabric for Making-up of Pressure Garments

The“cut-and-sewn” pressure garments are normally tailored made in various sizes according to the size of human body as well as the area of burn wounds.When a tubular pressure garment is cut in different length and width measurements,different aspect ratio will be occurred on the elastic fabric for making up the pressuregarment. Many therapists in Hong Kong concerned the change of aspect ratio may affect the tensile properties of the elastic fabric and ultimately will affect the skin-and-garment interface pressure for the patient.The aim of     

A Study of Interface Pressure at the Seamed Area of Pressure Garments

Pressure garments constructed with elastic fabric play an important role in burn rehabilitation by helping to prevent or reduce the formation of hypertrophic scars. For clinical effectiveness, these garments are made in appropriate size for individual patient in order to provide an appropriate amount of skin-and-garment interface pressure on the patient.The seam area of pressure garments has marked impact on the comfort and durability of the pressure garments.Comments from the patients and occupational therapists have indicated that discomfort arose in the seam zone.Line marks appeared on the skin of patients under the seamed areas of pressure garments. This may be caused by uneven or Iocalised interface pressure at the seamed area. In this paper, the changes of interface pressure between the seamed and unseamed areas were investigated. The aim is to provide an understanding of the effect of seams on the interface pressure in order to assist the therapists and/or garment makers to choose an appropriate s     

Study of 3D Mannequin and Garment Modeling in Garment CAD

On the base of studying the modeling technique of man-nequin and garment curved surface with non-uniform rational B-spline(NURBS),several methods of mannequin data pickup on 2D screen are proposed.A garment style creating method,which gets the key points for garment style modeling by drawing panel contour aroundthe mannequin on the screen and calculating the offset value between the body and the garment,is presented.Then 3D garment styles can be easily modeled with the key points and interactively modified.     

Effects of Compression Garments on Lower Limb Muscle Activation via Electromyography Analysis during Running

Sports compression garments are common-selected sportswear to improve athletic performance and reduce sports injury. Since they consist of elastic textile that exerts compression and pressure onto the muscle,muscle activation is of interest to sports compression garment manufactures who seek to enhance sports performance through gradient compression garment design.However,there are few scientific investigations to explore this effect of muscle activation to evaluate the performance of sports compression garments during sport activity. In this paper, a systemic experimental protocol was presented to improve the quality of evaluation test under a standardized running test. Then muscle activation with and without wearing sport compression garments to highlight the changes caused by compression garment was investigated. The electromyography( EMG) signal was collected and processed by the proposed method to represent the muscle activation combined with gait analysis of running. As a result,the average muscle activation of gait cycle for the major muscles such as rectus femoris( RF) and gastrocnemius medialis( GM) revealed that they needed to exert more muscle force without wearing garment at certain periods for mid-stand and pre-swing phase within gait cycle. These lower muscle activation levels prolonged activity duration,reduced fatigue,and presented low risk for sport injury.Such an evaluation study therefore would scientifically prove the effect of compression garment and provide information on muscle activation and the ergonomic efficacy of gradient compression garment design.