膜材经向拉伸性能数值模拟

膜材的强度主要由基布提供,基布由纱线编织而成,基于这样的膜材生产过程提出通过纱线拉伸性能建模模拟基布经向拉伸曲线和膜材经向拉伸曲线.以 MC 13122-1100/902膜材为例应用通用有限元程序Abaqus模拟,得到的模拟曲线与试验曲线在拉伸曲线的前两个阶段吻合很好,第三阶段稍有差异,对工程应用来讲模拟曲线是可靠的.     

织造和染整加工前后精梳毛纱拉伸性能的关系

为了根据织造前纱线的拉伸性能和织造、后整理工艺预测织物的拉伸性能,研究了织造和染整加工前后精梳毛纱拉伸性能的关系,获得了三方面的结论:(1)经常规后整理加工的各种精梳毛织物中经纱的伸长变形能力没有显著差异,但其纬纱的伸长变形能力与织造和染整工艺有关。(2)坯布染色情况下织造前纱线的伸长变形曲线在伸长率方向扩大一定倍数以后与织物中纱线的伸长变形曲线相当。纱线染色情况下织造前纱线的伸长变形曲线的某一部分与织物中纱线的伸长变形曲线相当。(3)后整理加工中的经向张力和拉幅张力对精梳毛织物中纱线的伸长变形能力的影响特别大。树脂整理有降低织物变形特别是变形回复能力的作用。     

铅笔裤轮廓感与面料性能的关系

选用13种涤棉面料制作女铅笔裤,讨论了面料的物理力学性能对铅笔裤轮廓感的影响.测试了面料的面密度、厚度、经纬密、总紧度、悬垂系数、弯曲刚度及折皱回复角等物理力学性能;将面料制作成铅笔裤,拍摄真人穿着时动态与静态的外观形态,并利用Corel Draw软件描绘出铅笔裤的静态轮廓;邀请专家对轮廓感进行主观优劣评价;用相关分析法考察了铅笔裤轮廓感与面料性能之间的相关关系.研究结果表明:面料的折皱回复角与铅笔裤的轮廓感显著相关;折皱回复角较大、悬垂性和弯曲刚度适度的面料适于制作女铅笔裤.     

针织调整型束裤拉伸弹性与服装压关系

选择8种氨纶高弹经编针织面料,按调整型束裤标准款式以5档号型制作调整型束裤40条,进行调整型束裤穿着服装压试验及面料的拉伸弹性试验.经过分析得出与臀腹部特征部位服装压相关关系显著的面料弹性指标,包括单次及5次拉伸弹性回复率、横向断裂强力、横向断裂功等,及其与服装压的定量关系.讨论了束裤臀腹部服装压与宽裕率、面料拉伸力的相关关系,得出穿着舒适美体的服装压对应面料拉伸伸长率及拉伸力值,对调整型束裤设计生产中的面料拉伸弹性选择有一定的参考意义.     

灰色模型在纺织上的应用——全毛华达呢综合手感预测

本文运用灰色控制理论、建立织物几何结构参数与织物综合手感值之间的灰色模型,(GM)探讨同一毛坯织物,经不同染整工艺加工的全毛华达呢成品织物的质量;该模型的建立,使常规测试的数据,可以预测织物综合手感值,为灰色模型在纺织界的应用展示了前景。     

打纬及开关车织物横档疵点

以实验的方法解释了织机在未采用张力补偿措施前提下,产生开关车织物横档疵点的原因。织机开关车时由于主轴转速、钢筘打纬速度达不到正常数值,使经纱张力及钢筘打纬力达不到一定的正常数值,以致打纬过程中经纬纱线相对滑移量比织机正常运转时的数值小、共同移动量比正常运转时的数值大,所形成的织物达不到正常的纬密,在织物上产生横档疵点。同时,也指出了长期以来对织物横档疵点成因一种肤浅的解释。     

亚麻/彩棉/白棉混纺针织物柔软整理工艺研究

研究亚麻/彩棉/白棉混纺针织物的柔软整理工艺。在亚麻/彩棉/白棉针织物的柔软整理中,采用了纤维素酶、氨基硅油和纤维素酶配合氨基硅油3种整理方法,分别采用不同的柔软整理工艺,通过测试整理后织物柔软性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、抗起毛起球、透气性等服用性能,分析3种方法的柔软整理效果。结果表明：3种整理工艺都能改善织物的柔软性,采用氨基硅油和纤维素酶配合氨基硅油柔软整理效果最好,从整体上看,该工艺整理后的织物的服用性能好于另外两种工艺。     

锦纶66包芯纱牛仔面料开发

使用锦纶66纤维开发高性能、高品质的牛仔面料,以粘胶为外包纤维,锦纶66或氨纶为芯丝制成36.4和28.0 tex的包芯纱为纬纱,使用剑杆织机使其与36.4和28.0 tex的纯棉纱线进行交织,制成牛仔面料。对锦纶66包芯纱和氨纶包芯纱所织制的6种牛仔面料进行色牢度、耐磨性、强力、弹性回复性、折皱回复性和弯曲性能等性能测试并进行对比分析,发现锦纶66包芯纱牛仔面料的弹性达到氨纶包芯纱牛仔面料的弹性水平,且其强力和柔软度更佳。以粘胶/锦纶66(3.33 tex/10 F)包芯纱织制面料比粘胶/锦纶66(3.33 tex/34 F)强力更大、弹性回复性更好,且更柔软。同时,采用36.4 tex纱线所织制的面料的强力、弹性和折皱回复性更好,但28.0 tex纱线所织制的面料更柔软。     

Relationship between Beating and Setting-on Place

In this paper,what causes the setting-on place of woven fabrics without adopting tension compensation is explained by means of experimental methods.Owing to that the main shaft speed and the beating speed of reed can not attain the normal values at setting-on,the warp tension and the beating force of the reed can neither reach the normal level.Therefore,the relative slippage movement of the weft against the warp during beating will be less,while the common movement of the weft together with the warp will be bigger than those at nor-mal running.As a result,the setting-on place is then     

Application of Acid Dyestuffs with Different Molecule Structure in Combined Dyeing and Finishing of Cotton Fabric

Simultaneous dyeing and durable press finishing of cotton fabrics with acid dyes bearing the different molecule structure and durable press finishing agent （DP agent abbr. ） based on modified DMDHEU were investigated by using the pad-dry-cure process. Some factors affecting the process, such as structure of acid dyes, DP agent, catalysts and curing temperature were discussed. The dyed and finished fabrics were evaluated with respect to color strength, fixation, crease recovery angle, breaking strength and fastness properties. The results indicate that structure of acid dyes has a striking effect on the color strength of dyed and finished cotton fabric. The color strength and dry crease recovery angle of dyed and finished cotton fabric increases, whereas breaking strength decreases with increasing concentration of DP agent. It is necessary for ammonium nitrate to serve as catalyst. It is found that relatively satisfactory properties of dyed and finished cotton fabric can be obtained with appropriate adjustment of treating conditions.     

Effect of Run - in Ratios on the Mechanical Properties of Two - Guide Bars Warp - Knitted Fabrics

Warp knitting technology gets rapid development at present and becomes one of the most important parts of the textiles.But it is less known how the parameters of warp knitting technology affect the mechanical properties of warp-knitted fabrics.This paper presents discuss a research on the relationships between run-in ratio and mechanical properties of the two-bar warp-knittedfabrics through the measurement and analysis of the mechanical properties of various samples with different run-in ratios.The optimal run一in ratios for the reasonable mechanical properties are obtained from above dis-     

Wrinkle Resistant Finishing of Cotton Fabrics with the Complex System of PBTCA/CA

In this paper,the wrinkle resistant finishing of cotton fabric with the complex system of PBTCA and CA was mainly discussed.The influence of finishing conditions such as the amount of finishing agent and catalyst,curing temperature and curing time were studied.Wrinkle recovery angle(WRA),breaking strength(BS) and whiteness(Wh) of finished fabric were measured.The experimental data indicated that the best finishing conditions were PBTCA 120g/L,CA 50g/L,sodium hypophosphite 50g/L,triethanolamine 20g/L,cured 170℃ for 120s.     

织物缩水规律的研究

为了提高产品质量，掌握织物售后使用的缩水情况，本文对纯棉织物、纯化纤织物和纯毛织物各三种在同一方法下进行缩水试验，测定历次水洗后经纬向的缩水率，求得总缩水率与水洗次数的关系。结果表明各类织物的总缩水率与洗涤次数的关系。结果表明各类织物的总缩水率与洗涤次数的关系为分式线性函数。通过试验还初步探讨了洗涤溶液、洗涤温度、经纬密度及织缩对总缩水率的影响。     

甲醇醚化DMDHEU工艺研究

通过单因素和正交试验探讨了甲醇用量、醚化时间、醚化温度以及醚化体系pH值对改性DMDHEU树脂性能的影响.通过测定和分析树脂的羟甲基甲醛含量、游离甲醛含量以及整理后织物的游离和水解甲醛量、折皱回复角、撕破强力等,确定了较佳的甲醇醚化工艺：甲醇用量为DMDHEU用量的36%,反应体系pH值为1.7～1.9,反应温度为50～52℃,反应时间为3.5 h,醚化后树脂的游离甲醛量低于0.3%,整理后织物上游离和水解的甲醛量为38.37 mg.kg-1,折皱回复角较原布提高了近100°,经、纬向撕破强力保留率均高于50%.     

连续玄武岩纤维衬垫织物复合材料及其拉伸性能

在电脑横机上分别编织了连续玄武岩纤维变化纬平针和不同垫纱比的衬垫织物4种预制件.通过真空辅助树脂转移模塑成型(VARTM)技术制成复合材料,测试其纵、横向拉伸性能.结果表明衬垫纱的浮线可以明显提高织物的横向拉伸性能,为玄武岩纤维及纬编增强复合材料的生产设计和应用提供依据.     

A Novel One-Dimensional Projection Based Method for Fabric Texture Representation

Automated defect detection in woven fabrics for quality control is still a challenging novelty detection problem,while the efficient representation of fabric texture is essential for it.This paper presents a novel method for fabric texture representation.Benefiting from the characteristics of the weaving process,the major texture information of woven fabric is concentrated in the warp and weft directions.Thus,the proposed method is firstly to project the image patch along warp and weft directions to obtain projected vectors containing warp and weft informations.Secondly,the obtained vectors instead of image patch,are used to extract the features that are able to represent fabric texture.Finally,the t-test is applied to verifying the usefulness of the proposed method in discriminating defective and normal fabric textures.The experiments on various defective samples demonstrate that the method yields a robust and good performance in representing fabric texture and discriminating defects.     

阻燃双层机织面料的研制

采用阻燃芳纶/粘胶混纺纱作为表经表纬,普通纯棉纱线作为里经里纬,设计并成功织造了五种表层阻燃、里层舒适的阻燃双层机织物试样.通过对试样进行阻燃性能测试,结果表明,五种试样的阻燃性能均达到GB 8965《阻燃防护服》的要求.对试样进行导水性、透湿性和透气性能测试,结果表明,五种试样的舒适性能都符合服用面料的要求.在今后的研究中,适当减小织物的克重、提高织物的经密,将能研制出更适合防护服要求的面料.     

织物的类型及其组织元

本文对历史上出现过的现在存在的各类织物提出了新的分类法、织物可分成编织物和机织的两大类,两类之中又可根据参与织造的纱线系统来分,然后再根据其交织原理区把编织物分成环编,纠编、绞编,烧编、斜编等若干种,把机织物分为针织和梭织两类,前者包括纬编和经编;后者则包括平经和绞经。文中还提出了组织元的概念,作为一类织物的基本构成单元,它较目前所用的原组织概念更为基础。     

阻燃双层机织面料的设计及其性能研究

以3/1右斜纹为表组织,3/1左斜纹为里组织,设计了一种"下接上"接结双层组织。在此基础上采用芳纶或芳纶混纺纱作为表经表纬,天然纤维纱线作为里经里纬,设计并织造了两种表层阻燃、里层舒适的阻燃双层机织物试样。通过对试样进行阻燃性能测试,结果表明,两种试样的阻燃性能均达到阻燃要求。通过对试样进行导水性、透湿性和透气性能测试,结果表明,试样二的阻燃性能尽管较试样一稍差,但完全符合服用面料阻燃标准要求,且试样二克重较小,舒适性能明显优于试样一.     

Theoretical and Experimental Analyses of Poisson Ratios for Plain-Woven Fabrics

A theoretical model with extensible yarns for plain-woven fabrics is developed to determine the calculation of Poisson ratios.The stress ratio( warp: weft),as one of parameters corresponding to Poisson ratio variations, is introduced to complement the theoretical model. To evaluate the reliability of the theoretical analysis,a series of biaxial tensile tests of a plain-woven fabric with nine stress ratios are conducted carefully,and the theoretical results are compared with the experimentally measured values. The effects of other influencing factors, including geometric and mechanical parameters of yarns,on Poisson ratios are analyzed thoroughly.This solution method could be applied without difficulty to estimations of Poisson ratios and realistic designs for plain-woven fabrics.