缝纫工艺参数对薄型机织面料缝口缩皱的影响

探讨缝纫工艺参数对缝口缩皱的影响,以有效地减轻缝口缩皱程度.采用正交实验方法测试并分析了送布牙高度、压脚压力、缝纫线张力、针迹密度4项缝纫参数对缝口缩皱的影响.实验结果显示,缝纫线张力、针迹密度是对缝口缩皱影响较大的缝纫参数.以这两个缝纫参数做变量,对轻薄类面料的优选缝纫参数进行单因素5水平实验.结果表明,送布牙高度及缝纫线张力宜低;压脚压力及针迹密度无明显规律.缝纫线张力与缝口缩皱呈多项式关系;针迹密度与缝口缩皱量之间没有显著相关性,其关系并不是简单而直线化的.     

织物弯曲刚度各向异性探讨

采用斜面法测试织物试样沿不同方向的弯曲长度、抗弯刚度及抗弯弹性模量,证明面料弯曲方向对缝纫加工的重要性.     

粘衬组合面料缝纫外观平整性能的预测模型

分析了粘衬后组合面料的缝纫性能的变化趋势,并利用人工神经网络的方法建立了基于粘衬组合面料FAST力学性能指标的缝纫外观平整性客观评价模型,采用斯皮尔曼秩相关(Spearman's rho) 分析法确立模型评价指标.经检验,该模型整体预报精度较好,稳定性高,可用于粘衬织物缝纫外观平整度等级预测.     

精纺面料的弹性整理和织物性能

探讨全毛精纺面料的弹性整理及整理后织物的物理机械性能．通过适当调整面料设计规格并在后整理工序中采用化学弹性整理，赋予织物经向或纬向弹力，改善了精纺面料的风格及服用性能．同时采用Siro-FAST仪测试了这种弹性面料的性能．试验结果表明：经弹性整理的面料，其面料的弹性指标可以达到天然弹性织物的技术性能指标．FAST仪测试表明：弹性面料具有较好的成形性，不会造成服装加工中线缝起皱和熨烫困难；但面料在弹性方向上的延伸性指标过高、湿膨胀率大，以及弯曲刚度和剪切刚度偏小，给剪裁和缝纫加工造成一定困难．     

基于优化RBF神经网络的丝织物缝纫性能客观评价

提出了一种基于优化RBF神经网络的丝织物缝纫性能客观评价系统.该系统根据丝织物面料的FAST力学指标与缝纫性能之间的关系,运用神经网络的方法进行面料缝纫性能评价和预测,并提出了一种基于模糊核聚类的优化径向基神经网络学习算法.实验表明,该系统对一般丝型织物的缝纫平整性能评价预测具有客观、快速和高效等优点.     

劲性钢柱施工质量控制

劲性钢柱作为型钢砼组合结构的一种,是建设部推广的新技术之一,其施工质量控制难度大.本文结合工程施工实践,从劲性钢柱的材料制作、焊接加工、安装等方面对劲性钢柱的质量控制问题进行了探讨.＃     

大豆蛋白复合纤维针织面料舒适性能的研究

测试了大豆蛋白复合纤维针织物与棉针织物物理性能,同时对其针织内衣进行了穿着对比实验,并主观评价了两种面料的穿着舒适性能.认为大豆蛋白弹性针织物的服用舒适性能良好,其优良的接触舒适性和热湿舒适性都在一定程度上好于棉针织物,是加工贴身针织内衣的理想面料.     

铅笔裤轮廓感与面料性能的关系

选用13种涤棉面料制作女铅笔裤,讨论了面料的物理力学性能对铅笔裤轮廓感的影响.测试了面料的面密度、厚度、经纬密、总紧度、悬垂系数、弯曲刚度及折皱回复角等物理力学性能;将面料制作成铅笔裤,拍摄真人穿着时动态与静态的外观形态,并利用Corel Draw软件描绘出铅笔裤的静态轮廓;邀请专家对轮廓感进行主观优劣评价;用相关分析法考察了铅笔裤轮廓感与面料性能之间的相关关系.研究结果表明:面料的折皱回复角与铅笔裤的轮廓感显著相关;折皱回复角较大、悬垂性和弯曲刚度适度的面料适于制作女铅笔裤.     

合体裤的压力舒适性

选取4种延伸性不同的裤装面料并分别制作成款式和规格相同的合体裤,通过穿着试验,结合主观评价法对4条合体裤的压力舒适性进行评价.结果表明,人体姿势不同、身体部位不同及面料延伸性差异,均会对合体裤的压力舒适性有显著影响.     

轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性研究

通过人工气候条件下的人体穿着试验，对轻薄型羊毛机织面料的舒适性进行了研究。结果表明，在制作贴身穿着服装时，轻薄型羊毛机织面料的总体舒适感不及蚕丝、棉及涤棉等面料，主要原因是其存在刺痒感.同时还表明，面料的柔软度是影响贴身穿着服装的总体舒适感的非常重要的因素。     

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Introduction Manypeopleexperienceapricklesensationwhentheywearsomewoolgarments.Itwaspreviouslythoughtthatthi pricklesensationmayhavebeentheresultofanallergyto wool.However,thestudyofGarnsworthyetalshowedtha theprickleevokedbywoolfabricwasnotderivedfroman allergytowool.Ratherthecauseoffabric evokedpricklewa themechanicalexcitationofskin painreceptorsfromthe coarsefiberendsprotrudingfromthefabricsurface[1].Thei studyalsoshowedthatinsomefabrics,fibersprotrudingfrom thesurface,whichwereabletosu…     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorability of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments, the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment unproved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

Effect of Commercial Synthappret BAP Treatment on the Tailorabilitv of Light-Weight Worsted Wool Fabrics

By means of measurement with the FAST instruments,the effect of commercial Synthappret BAP treatment on the tailorability of light-weight wool worsted fabrics has been investigated. It was found that the commercial Synthappret BAP treatment improved the tailorability of the light-weight wool fabrics mainly by increasing the bending stiffness of the light-weight wool fabrics.     

运用高收缩涤纶长丝开发机织物新品种

高收缩涤纶纤维在国内已研制成功,在国外运用极广,用量很大。本文探讨由物理法制得的高收缩涤纶长丝在机织物中的应用。讨论了纱线结构、织物组织、高收缩纤维含量、收缩率与织物密度的关系等问题。提出了仿制绉纱类轻薄丝织物、凹凸织物和中厚型仿毛织物的方法。     

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.     

洋麻仿毛改性研究和产品开发

作者基于洋麻和羊毛在纤维结构和性能上的差异,提出洋麻仿毛改性的依据、目标和条件。通过仿毛改性,改变了洋麻工艺纤维的长度、细度、表面形态,机械性能、可纺性和缩绒性,生产出改性洋麻含量为30％的具有类似纯毛风格的毛麻混纺产品。该产品的开发有重大经济效益。     

Structures and Properties of Composite Yarns of Filaments and Wool Staple Fibers

More and more composite yarns of filament and wool staple fiber have been applied to develop the new type of fabrics. However, the great difference in yarn structures between the composite yarns and conventional staple yarns does affect the properties of yarns and fabrics. In this paper, it has been studied that the differences of the composite yarn properties of tensile, bending rigidity, torsional rigidity, the hairiness and irregularity etc.     

Shrinkage Properties of Wool and Acrylic/Wool Plain Knitted Fabrics Treated with DC109

This paper examines the effects of shrink - resist treatment, washing cycle and fabric tightness on the shrinkage properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 100% wool, acrylic/wool (50/50) and acrylic/wool (70/30). It was found that shrinkages of both treated and untreated wool fabrics were negatively correlated to fabric tightness and exceeded the IWS shrinkage limits (5% in length and 8 % in area) after 2 - 5A washing cycle. The effect of tightness was not as obvious with acrylic/wool (A/W) fabrics, but the shrinkage was seen to increase with stages of washing cycle for untreated A/W fabrics with some exceeding IWS standard. By applying the DC 109 shrink - resist solvent treatment, it was identified that by with higher percentage of acrylic fibre blended with wool, shrinkage could be reduced considerably and within acceptable limits.     

Composition and Properties of Thermo-regulated Non-woven Fabrics

A series of non-woven fabrics were fabricated by blending S0- 80wt% of thennoregulated fibres containing n-elcosane, n-nonadecane or n-octadecane with 0 - 40wt% PET fibres and 0- 20wt% PP fibres. The phase change properties, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, heat flux and inner temperature difference between wool felt and the thermoregulated non-woven fabrics of the non-woven fabrics were measured respectively. The thereto-regulated non-woven fabrics absorb heat at 25- 34℃ and release heat at 10- 25℃. The measured highest enthalpy of the non-woven is approximately 18J/g. During a heating process, heat flux of the non-woven fabrics is composed of three parts, heat absorbed by the cold textile touching the hot plate, heat transmitted from the hot plate to the cold plate, and the heat absorbed by PCM from the hot plate during the phase change process. The measured maximum inner temperature difference in a temperature rising process between the wool felt and the thermo-regulated non-woven fabric is approximately 8℃. The inner temperature difference （Tr-Ts〉0） lasts 16 - 45 min By contrary, the measured maximum inner temperature difference in the temperature decreasing process is approximately - 6. 5℃. The inner temperature difference （Tr-Ts〈0） lasts 16 - 50 min, The temperature regulation properties are obviously observed.